I didn’t have the time or the opportunity to test my Convoy S2 with the OSRAM KW CSLNM1.TG (1mm2) White Flat + SMO reflector before. This weekend I tried it and made some night shots comparing it with another “similar” tube flashlight, a Convoy S2+ with XPL-HI U6-3A and SMO reflector.
My S2 has been shown above, so it needs no further consideration.
I must say one thing: I am really impressed with what this LED can to even in a small SMO reflector and small light! Really impressed!!! I reached real illumination at about 400m!!! With the specs of this little light and reflector I believe it is something, right? (yeah you guys that use big reflectors will say this is an ant dimension, but I still like it )
S2+ on the left >>> S2 with Osram on the right (it will be the same scheme in the sequence to follow, always with the S2 on the right)
I have a Convoy M1 build with 1mm² CSLNM1.TG nearly finished, with linear driver set at “5A” (one of the newer SST-40 drivers from Simon modified with 8mΩ sense resistor: R010 + R050 + R200). Just need to bypass the switch and solder the driver, will say something later.
I finally threw a CULNM1 in my Jaxman Z1 (you know, with the nice glass lens). It's running off 13x AMC7135, so a nominal 4.94A. I might get up the nerve to reflow another one or two on there, but maybe not. I don't have a good idea for how well the Z1 handles the heat, and I roasted the CSLPM1 I had in it first. That was probably because I had something on the LED that burned up, but I'm not sure.
Anyway, it's my first aspheric, it's a glorious gosh darned pencil beam and it's just hilarious. I haven't been out at night with it yet (I finished the mod after 11pm Friday and had a busy weekend), and I'm sure my stock MF02 outthrows it, but it's my new favorite thrower. It's so damned small it will fit in a jacket pocket, especially when twisted down to flood mode. Jaxman sent a lens cover with it even, which I actually use. And just for fun, I ended up having to use a black, reamed-out 3535 centering ring for the 4040 footprint, so it projects a nice donut image of the centering ring around the square die image.
Even if not that important, yes. I carefully glued a 3535 gasket around the emitter, one which I had previously lapped to reduce its height from 0.8mm down to 0.6 or 0.5mm. The reflector sits quite close to the solder pads. I had to dismiss my first attempts, where I left the gasket at just 0.2 - 0.3mm and the reflector wouldn't seat properly due to it landing over the pad wires. O:)
I think that with a small reflector, it is indeed impressive. The beam is not straight all the time as it has a slight opening, but it makes possible to have a tube light (eventually in a 18350 version) as a “true” pocket thrower
Took some quick ceilingbounce measurements, got very close to 100Kcd for my M1. I don't know how accurate is my smartphone luxmeter. I have a Sofirn C01S in case anyone wants to help getting some comparative figures. Will measure again with the help of a friend in a day or two.
M1 speaking, adjusted my homemade setup and measured again: 101.5Kcd peak and ≈97Kcd at 30s.
I really don't know how the ceilingbounce application works 30s warning sound wise. I was hoping for the 30s alarm to reset upon pressing “reset” but it doesn't seems to.
I think this is about what is to be expected from such host, doesn't it? Its reflector seems to be about half of the surface of a C8.
Will this led provide any benefits on a reflector like these - in terms of throw @ 2 or 3 amps ? or i’m better off going with xpl-hi instead ? these are motorcycle auxiliary spot lights and i want to increase throw with making the beam more narrow.
above one is @3 amps
^ this one is @2 amps. asking this because i can’t increase the current. and it seems like white flat requires higher current. so before ordering new leds, just want to be sure.
well that’s a good news, i was reading a thread about black flat on Emisar D1s @ 5amp and manufacturer abandoned the plan so i thought maybe it requires higher current. one more thing, can i reflow it on xm-l2 board or not. and do i need to worry about anything else ? or its just replacing the led and go kinda thing.
i have never done dedoming before so that option is a no go for me. guess i will get white flat on 16mm dct instead of reflowing on current board. leds have minimum 17mm distance between them, so i think 3x 16mm boards will be fine. now only issue left is, these leds are 6000-6500k or above, but i guess you gotta lose something to gain something.
If you have enough center to center distance go for it slopegatri70, 3 × ∅16mm boards. Just pay attention at how is the stuff set up, very likely emitters in series (3S1P).
CSLNM1.TG (1mm²) is ≈6500K that's what there is. The tint is nice, though, my recently built M1 looks pretty white to my eyes, far better than most cheapass emitters inside cheapass flashlights. But ;-) cool.
Sounds like a plan that could work
Although there is some work involved, quite a bit of wiring, but the main problem to solve: you need a new way of centering those small 3030 leds: measure the reflector hole, find a source for 3030 centering pieces (intl-outdoor?) , maybe adapt the thickness of the centerpieces for best focus, and possibly ream the reflector holes to fit them.
(yeah you guys that use big reflectors will say this is an ant dimension, but I still like it 
)
