from the convoy thread
so, the difference is 3030 footprint for cslpm1 vs 4040 footprint for culpm1

Exactly. The idea is that the larger footprint allows higher currents due to better heatsinking.
Osram’s datasheet says 6A, but since when did we use to stick with specs from datasheets?
We run cree LED’S on currents not even mentioned by Cree :wink:

All else being equal, I think the effective difference will be rather small.

I’m curious what the difference will be, since the surface area is 77,77% larger. (16mm instead of 9)
That means it can be abused a bit more (run higher currents) or sustain longer (better thermal dissipation/better performance)

When I say that the effective difference will be rather small, I am speaking about lumens or radiant flux, of course.

The 4040 footprint will handle higher current, but that extra (Vf × I) power will only partially turn into extra lumens or flux.

We'll see.

I wonder if the rather small amount of more efficiency on CULNM1.TG / CULPM1.TG will be advantageous if used in a multiemitter array, e.g. underneath a quad optic. I hope to seeing some flashlights using CULNM1.TG underneath a Carclo 10621 optic anytime soon. Maybe Hank (KR4/D4v2) or Sofirn (IF25A) can offer something like this. Acebeam is using CSLNM1.TG (White Flat 1) in their TK16/TK18 lights.

Like this?

LEDs: Osram White Flat 2.1 4040 Boost HX
Driver: MTN-17DDm (w/ Bistro firmware)
Optics: Ledil Angie
Lens: UCLp AR lens

~4470lm @ 3s
5500K CCT

Yes, very nice work. :+1:
Actually, I hope it can also be done with a 10mm lens as LEDiL ANGIE-S is a bit larger.

Is that a 3535 board?

Yes 3535. I had a mosX 4040 board I took some Luxeon Vs off of but I kept getting shorts I couldn’t fix.

So like this?

I’d guess using 4040 LED’s might not be worth it on a smaller build since you may not be able to max them out anyways. I ran this one w/ FET enabled using a VTC6, yolo.

3x Osram Red Flat (CSLNM1.23)
MTN triple 3030 board
lume1 buckboost driver
lume1 RGB aux board

Wow, niiiiice! :THUMBS-UP: :LOVE: I got to have one of these! :)) Maybe I should ask Hank to offer his Emisar D4v2 using a triple board with KR CSLNM1.23 or KW CSLNM1.TG using 10507 or a quad board using 10621 along with his 7.5A constant current driver (w/o direct drive). That would be a perfect add on to his custom builds using SST20-DR.

Anyway, thanks a lot for sharing!

I’m surprised they didn’t float around during the flow…

They do some but if you use less solder the friction will keep it in place well enough to manually center. Im sure it’s not perfect but definitely close enough for a TIR.

I used a toothpick and rolled the tip of it on the side of the emitter to push/center it. Hands are too shaky to use tweezers from above

Those are the emitters from the Yinding store?


I don’t think there will be much difference in multi-emitter lights. They don’t tend to drive the LEDs to the max anyway, so amps per LED are not near the limit.
Unless the light is large.

With single LED lights you can drive the LED much harder which was a problem with 3030. It may still be a problem with 4040 but the limit should be higher.

Problem is, some (cough! many) of you still use unregulated drivers, which is just (sort of) wrong (no matter what).

In other matters, in a sort of related way and conversely, people like me believe in being impervious to Covid-19. Did it nearly from the start. Awaken to your spirit (or better, to the reality of the soul). Learn to believe. The sooner you do the same, the sooner this sort of Zelda Majora's Mask tale will end.

All the best,

The Light.

Just like you Barkuti I’m not a fan of direct drive. But with limited choice on the market that’s what I tend to choose.
Times are changing, availability of regulated drivers increases. Still not with Andruil….but these will come as well.

I swear into this diy FET DD driver as the best for certain setup(1x18650, 1x emitter setup) maybe not perfect for this new Osram emitters (but it could be reworked if we restrict current over the fet to around 4.5A) but for old XPG2 in mentioned setup is really, really the best, unbeatable…
The problem I have is that AK-47 C1 driver (firmware with high,med,low no memory effect) disappeared from the market… So for me that means “GAME OVER”.
I would take 17mm regulated drivers (4.5A on high) but I need high, med, low mode without memory effect so it always starts on high… I don’t want to mess with re-flashing and reprogramming or any kind of fiddling(short press, long press, 5 flashes etc.) to get into that…
So we all have wishes and preferences… My vote, but only for mine mentioned type of setup goes to above mentioned type of FET DD driver.