Yes, i did see those Quad Optisolis boards earlier.
But that would need a quad optic too…
Its the finer version of anodizing but with very fine almost closed cells. As for the copper it uses a Special “adhesive” I guess. There’s a better version with twice the thermal transfer but six times the cost. Can’t afford it at the moment.
- Clemence
I can’t afford those either, probably…
The ones you have aren’t exactly cheap already.
But i wonder if it’s worth it at all.
I mean, it’s probably like when you have 0.0006 Ohm unwanted resistance in a circuit, and then you improve it to 0.0001 Ohm.
You’re not gonna notice it unless you push some really big fat currents.
how would these Optosolis say compare with E21A 6500 in a Viking Pro?.
LEO Use. Thanks.
can an s2+ Mule be made from these ?
what is best ?.
best colour quality than brightness.
6500k
thanks.
See post #2 for how to mount the leds but leave out the reflector and put a spacer under the ledboard to raise the leds to right under the lens.
I am testing a single 6500k optisolis driven by a 15mm lexel bistro driver. The LED does just fine at 4x 7135 level, which is about 1.4amp. I think it has survived a hundred of these 1.4A bursts a few seconds each without any visible damage.
I wonder what current is required to actually damage this led in, say, 10 seconds of use?
EDIT1: seems I got wrong measurements, will recheck
EDIT2: a fresh IMT 18350 supplies 1.04A. This is about right for this LED
I’d prefer staying under 750mA if possible.
1,4A is a lot for such a small LED.
Stay at below 200mA/LED whenever possible! Remember this is polymer package LED. Anything higher than 200mA should degrade the output faster.
CW optisolis lumen maintenance degrades faster than WW Optisolis.
Ongoing test results:
CW: 27.500 hours L70 at 65mA, 85C
WW: 40.000 hour L70 at 65mA, 85C
[Clemence]
Of course 1amp is not what I use all the time. Most of the time I use 100ma and sometimes 350ma. But in a single led light it is good to be able to pump 1amp for a few seconds just in case.
I am ordering a mule LE with 6x cw optisolii which would max at 3amps. But I dont expect to use more than 1 amp
I am also looking for a single cell host to hold your 35mm pcb array. Or I may just swap the pcb in my meteor m45
[Clemence]
I finally had my grail EDC light built by Tana. This is a mule based on 2x 5000K and 3x 6500K Optisolii, which gives out a beautiful high noon tint. The H17-f driver goes up to 3 amps in this config, which is 500ma per LED. Normally I use it at 250 ma (~30 ma per LED) and 1000ma (160 ma per LED).
This build had been inspired by what djozz presented in the OP but with 6x LEDs instead of 4x. It turned to be a REAL PITA for Tana to do the solder, but he did it!
Nice thing about the head which was made of a stock surefire elite head to accomodate an aleph compatible LE, is that I can replace the bezel by an aspheric bezel from Ultrafire U-f10 zoomie, and this “mod” adds a lot of throw to it.
Now when my EDC needs have been satisfied, I started thinking of a much more powerful light, either based on Clemence’s 36x board, or an Meteor M45. A great thing about M45 is that the mcpcb is designen in a way that one can solder tens of Optisolii in random places. The only question is if the driver would work well with the Optisolii.
The beam is surprisingly pretty! I like it. Do you have the aspheric beamshot?
[Clemence]
The aspheric beamshot is presented on the last, 4th photo. It is not perfectly circular, but very close.
The mule beam is here: Imgur: The magic of the Internet
Ah, ok.
Thanks,
Clemence
Still running 12x Optisolis 2700K @ 150 mA each here in my room, in 3S4P configuration on a modified 20mm aluminium LED board at the base of a 25cm (10”) white glass sphere (but upside down on the ceiling)
Lights up the whole room quite adequately.
Still as bright as 3 years ago, as far as i can tell.
Must be doing some 6 hours a day on average.
Hello! Can you help with a solution for Nichia Optisolis 5000K CRI99 ( NF2W757GT-F1) midpower board? The problem is: max. 10x10mm…
Thanks!
… or maybe modify (cut) an (already) available Star PCB? Has anyone made such a change? Thanks!
Welcome to BLF Razvan Gavrila 
These exist:
https://www.ledrise.eu/amfile/file/download/file/4565/product/2449/
and can be bought from this listing:
https://www.ledrise.eu/leds/10mm-mini-alu-circuitboard-nichia-153.html.html
Note that the image is wrong, the listing is actually for the two-pad version as shown in the above datasheet which is linked to further down the listing.
(I have bought from this listing and received the 2-pad version).
There are also optics available for this board:
https://www.ledrise.eu/leds/carclo-linse-10mm-for-cree-xp-e-165-deg-xp-g-24-deg.html.html
https://www.ledrise.eu/leds/carclo-linse-10mm-for-cree-xp-e-259-deg-xp-g-30-deg-frosted.html.html
https://www.ledrise.eu/leds/carclo-linse-10mm-for-cree-xp-e-xp-g-elliptical-43x23-deg.html.html
and a little adhesive pad, just in case you need one :
https://www.ledrise.eu/leds/adhesive-pad-for-10x10mm-pcb.html.html
Thanks, Marc!
But the issue is with the Nichia Optisolis 5000 K LED… please see the attach…
32724_en_Data_sheet_Nichia_NF2W757GT-F1_Optisolis_SMD-LED_with_PCB_Star_5000_K_Rfc00.pdf (441.0 KB)