Why T/A…. Did you think TomE, Me and Dale were joking…… 
:+1:
Testing the P2-1C 70.2 at the emitter in a SD75 2S2P on 4 VTC5’s with 4 VTC5A’s my emitter hit at over 23amps and turned instantly BLUE!
You should see the beam coming out of my TN42! Very impressive! :cowboy_hat_face:
Out of a GT……OMG! :person_facepalming:
What would it take to get a Luminus CFT-90 into this light? With the strange board the LED is mounted on I take a simple LED swap is not possible?
More throw than an XP-G2 and more lumens than the XHP35-HI sounds interesting.
I’m in. Sign me up for one, if it isn’t too late please. 
Imalents DX80 uses 8 cells and has internal charging. Since safety is a huge concern, they chose to wrap up their own cells (Samsung 30Q) in a single battery pack. Then they charge them at 19v 2A for a total recharge time of about 3 hours. (equavelant to 1A per cell)
There are both pros and cons about this, though.
I think BLFer’s prefer individual cells over a battery pack.
DX80 have same 4S2P configuration as GT and using 19V 2A charger not 12V, so probably there is a chance that Imalent battery would fit in GT after removing carriers. Who knows maybe someone will be able to make some changes and make it possible.
Can you please add me to the list for a second GT? Thank you.
First of all, I would like to thank everyone involved in this project for the many, many hours they have put into it so far and the wisdom and patience that was needed to get it to completion. You are building one amazing light. It is good to see people talking about how tints work in the real world and not just relying on numbers and sensors which see things different than human eyes do. Human brains also compensate for color shifts and can totally convince you one color is actually a very different shade. So using tests that incorporates human eyes is definitely the way to go.
I don’t know if anyone here can answer this but it is something I have wondered about since I first heard of the GT. How would the GT compare to an aircraft landing light from a small prop plane or a small corporate jet. There are two reasons for this question, 1. my father used to build lights (30-40 yrs. ago) using the brightest lights available locally which were aircraft landing lights. 2. several weeks ago a local corporate jet was landing at the very small airport and when he was about 1000-1400ft. high he turned straight at us from about 3 miles away (my best estimate). Its lights were very bright to look at and when I turned around to see how well he had the house lit up I was amazed at how bright the wall was with distinct shadows of us. It seemed to me that if the GT could make shadows like that at even 1/2 mile it would be awesome. I know my father would not be able to believe how far lights have came in a relatively short time span. Even though the jet’s lights were extremely bright it was not a problem being on the receiving end them other than it totally ruined our night vision we were using looking for meteors.
So the bottom line is, are those lights anything even close to the GT in brightness, throw or beam profile?
[quote=Tom E]
OK, I understand those are the coded standards but I have many flashlights with different tints and those that appear really “neutral” are all a 5000K tint. 4000K looks yellowish and 6000K bluish. In fact the web stores that offer both tints CW and NW, have a NW always = to 5000k. If you wish 4000K must buy a Nichia. Skylumen.com (Vihn), Thrunite etc. offer NW option and it is always 5000k.
Please add me to the list.
I don’t wanna answer for anyone because I’m sure someone will answer for me with a better answer. But I use to work as an aircraft technician a few years back. Most of the new jets I worked on were using leds for landing lights. The older ones like your talking about were using 250w hologen bulbs. I would guess the GT is a lot brighter because of the lens technology paired with the led emitters. For compactness a lot of planes landing lights back then used to have relatively shallow reflectors. They used a spot bulb with a baffle to compensate for lack of depth in the reflector. It has a pretty spotty beam but the hot spot wasn’t really tight. Its a lot more floody then the GT. I imagine the color tempture would be similar because of the NW emitters. Most small aircraft use two spot landing lights on the nose gear. Not sure how many lumans each I’d have to figure it out but I know for the most part the hologan runs on about 20/24 volts each and at 250w.
Those airplane lights are far superior to anything led based.
I would like to be added to the list, please
well, looklike all things are doing good, i hope the team can allow lumintop make the light now
250W airplane halogen bulb iz bright as he’ll but in shallow reflector makes only 150.000cd so GT should throw better but wouldn’t look that bright from far distance unless is directly pointed at you, then you would se a tunel of light
Don’t forget a battery pack can easily add 100 bucks to the total of the light.
A perfect battery pack has the charging board on the pack itself so it can keep track of each cell individual.
So for this groupbuy it was definitely out of question.
However it would be awesome if LT makes a battery pack as an option later on.
Actually since GT don’t request high drain batteries I could built 4s2p battery pack with 4s BMS and CC,CV 16,8v charger for under 40 $…
That number can vary a lot. Obviously a manufacturer can build it at discount prices. Then they can charge whatever they want to make profit. 8 cells at $5 ea. plus a battery carrier to hold everything might cost them $50 total. Then they can sell it separately for $80 or $100.
A battery pack does reduce liability by preventing uninformed people from just throwing a bunch of mismatched 18650 cells in the light, but it also adds expense if you need long runtimes. You would have to buy a second pack (at an inflated price) to swap in and then not be able to charge the first pack because the charger is built into the light.
The open battery carrier on the GT on other hand let’s you buy just the cells. You spend much less money and can swap in a second group of cells while the first 8 can be put on a charger. This way is cheaper as long as people know to used matched and married cells so they run down equally.
Like I said, there are pros and cons to each battery setup. I do like the GT setup better. I think the GT team made a good choice by not adding a built-in charging circuit with battery pack.
LOL, I never doubted ya’lls results. I doubted the ability for the LED to handle that much power longer term. A quick blast in a DD light is a very different story then a long term output test. Thats why most of my tests get lower numbers then a DD light from a cold start. It is also why I generally do a cold start test to get an idea of what it would do in a light.
20A actually makes a fair amount of sense if you think about it, each XP-L2 die maxes out around 10A, so it figured that 4 of them (2s2p) would max out around the same. I am just surprised that the thermal pad can keep up with that much heat.
It turning blue is what I kind of figured would happen at that output but guess I underestimated the large thermal pad on the xhp70.
I’m going to be buying batteries and a charger for this thing. So wanna make sure I got this right it takes 8 18650 batteries right? I was thinking the Nitecore i8 would be a good charger. Trying to find something reasonably inexpensive but good. And maybe LG? 18650s…I know you said its not a high drain light but whatever you can recommend for good battery life thats reasonable in price. Any estimate on when it will be available? I’m hoping the end of the month I’ll have enough to cover both batteries and the charger and light.
Lumintop should have some batteries they will offer for sale with the light to save on shipping although the type and cost has not been released yet.
For the charger, there are a lot of good options. You do not need an 8 cell charger, you can use a 4 cell charger as well and do them in 2 batches.
Also the light will work perfectly fine with 4 cells, you will just get half the runtime naturally.
For the cells themselves, I prefer the higher capacity cells like the Sanyo / Panasonic GA or the Samsung 35E. Although if you find a good deal on somethign else, pretty much anything from the major brands will work fine.
The good brands being:
Samsung
LG
Sony
Sanyo / Panasonic
There are some other brands like Efest and keeppower ect that are a bit more hit and miss but should work as well.
Hi all, good to see the new proto v2 cant wait till full production.
I hope im on the list.
Is there anyway of paying up front.
Actualy i dont even know if im on the list.
I hope i am.