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Oh trust me, I’ve delved like 36 pages deep into these theories and charts, no-one seems to agree on what’s best.
(36 Google search pages deep, that is)
@enderman
The rays are not that paralel. Since the diameter of the reflector is neglibie to the size of the hotspot the throw will improve a lot with a deeper reflector because of diffusion and atmosphere. Will it not?
yah I started googling too
LOL it exist:
http://reflector-design.com/ with free trial (could we play nough in 10 days?)
Now THAT is commitment:
The point of a parabolic reflector is to take the rays and make them as parallel as possible for maximum throw (aka focused at infinity)
But since an LED is not a single point of light, having a a smaller ratio of “distance to reflector” divided by “led diameter” will reduce but not eliminate diversion (which is picture #3 of my above post)
Technically a deeper reflector will increase the light efficiency (you can imagine a really long tube has little spill) and increase throw as long as you increase the overall size of the reflector. Stretching the parabola alone will probably not give more throw, since you will have something like this:
The bottom of the parabola where the LED would be gets really skinny, causing more beam diversion (this is the reason small reflector flashlights don’t have a lot of throw)
If you make the parabola longer but wider at the same time, then yes you should get more throw since the distance between the LED and reflector surface gets larger. If you want me to draw a pic to help understanding this just let me know and i will do it in a few hours
Remember that all parabolas are the exact same shape, just zoomed in/out either horizontally or vertically or both. Also, incident angle = reflected angle. Longer distance from LED to surface = smaller incident angle.
I have that skyline flashlight running a XPL and is as impressive as the XRE
mdeni, what I said wasn’t a buzz killer but without actual real world testing we won’t know if the set up all the peeps involved choose will actually do 1000kcd. We all want it, don’t get me wrong 
Why not contact them and explain what we are doing, and get them on this “quest” with us for reaching (1mcd with a decent/usable beam, hopefully) our goal?
Can you please add me to the interest list?
I tore down and tested the 8.4v (2S2P) Boost driver in the TN42 and it’s only pulling 2.15amps at the LED on average using 4 different High drain batteries, MJ1’s, 30Q’s, VTC5’s and VTC5A’s. Each set of batteries were tested 3 times each.
I have a couple other XHP35 HI’s doing 2.77 and 2.81 amps at the LED, on two different built (4S) Mtn.Max Buck drivers. (4S) Special Builds.
I have a LD-2 M2 (4S) Linear driver set at 2.5amp doing 2.51 amps at the emitter.
I now have the (4S) LD-2 M2 3amp Linear driver in testing pulling 3.03 amps at the LED and it’s surviving! :person_facepalming: :+1:
Next is to rigorously test the XHP35HD E4 1D emitter that’s been totally de-domed before assembling into the TN42, as I do not wish to smoke the reflector up!! :cry:
Interesting, so that means it is leaving some performance on the table compared to what we will be doing, figure an extra few hundred lumens by running them closer to 2.75 amps in the GT
Hhmm. You can clean dedome an XHP35? Suspect it would throw better than a XHP35 HI? Does anyone know? Would be nice... 
Dale mentioned using de-domed XHP35’s but I assumed he was talking about shaved domes since the XHP’s are generally not de-domeable.
But.. Wait, isn't that a clean dedomed XHP35 KB has there? Looks like a good dedome.
Yeah, I noticed that too but figured my eyes were playing tricks on me. lol
I actually haven’t tried a clean de-dome, only shaved an HD. KD has racing fuel, maybe that’s how he did it… surely he’ll tell! 
Yep Racing Fuel C14+ …….
Got a few XHP35HD de-domed for back ups just in case! These are CW 6500K de-domed to check for tint shift? De-domed a few XHP70’s and have them in a couple lights also.
Dang, that's nice! Wonder if my ZEP degreaser would work on them... It's been great on regular LED's - dedomes in 8-12 minutes. At about 7-8 minutes, you here a "pop" when the first break in the dome occurs - pretty cool.
I gotta ask around bout the C14+. I built 3 Y3's up for a guy at work who races, think stock cars. Also got a neighbor who has a fully worked Chevelle that can rattle our house at 20 MPH goin down the block. Even if the don't have any, they might know where I can borrow a cup or so.