Please tell me where i can buy the XPG2 (90CRI WW).
Not only will a 12x7135 fit into the X6, but so will a 16x. 
All in how bad you want it. lol
Leaving the stock 4 on the spring side, an extra 4 or even 8 will fit inside the pill. More with determination.
My copper triple was delivered today! I haven’t had a chance to test fitment, but the machining looks good. I’m excited to finally get this thing built!
I built my triple yesterday :bigsmile: (I didn’t buy my spacer from nitro’s sale) & you guys are going to love it 
it is everything Dale said & showed & more.
I have already taken it night running tonight in a beautiful snowy Swedish forest. The branches was so heavy with new fallen snow they where bending down in to the track/path i was running on, so much that i had to zigzag & sometimes run under them to avoid running in to them J)
And the 3D tint in the triple made the trees heavy with still failing snow look like a fairy tale, absolutely magical. I wish i had been able to film it, i have never seen anything like it & i doubt that i will again.
But who knows this flashlight hobby makes one able to experience dark places in a new light
Thanks to Dale for making the triple X6 & learning me how to do it, i used every trick in the book & thanks to Ledsmoke who sold me the triple spacer, sorry you have stopped sales 
& thanks to my sore calves for moving me through the heavy snow
@nitro, i wish i could have afforded one of your triple spacers in copper, but you know the shipping on almost anything heavy from the US to Sweden kills the affordability of the deal.
i got my copper triple today……well yesterday now since its after midnight. looks great! I just have to figure out what driver I want to use and get her built. I already have the optics and triple xp-l’s on a noctigon. shoulde be a sweet light.
should have picked up a A17DD-S08 driver from me they are a perfect fit for the X6 and packs a punch to any set up u go with :)
I may have to. How much?
Can you give specific pointers on the specific sources for those? I was thinking of using a LD-1 but learned they’ll overheat, so I’m looking for one or two that I won’t have to build myself, to get these finished.
A friendly suggestion here…
If you don’t want to end up like me, I recommend one flips the O-ring to the front side of the lens before installing the bezel over the 3-up optic. I didn’t and in turn sheered all of the legs of it the next time I went to open it up.
Pretty awesome handful of light isn’t it Cajampa? The 3D tint is, in my humble opinion, absolutely the best match for this mod. I have a lot of lights, in various sizes and shapes from teeny tiny to quite massive and this triple X6 is at the top of my favorite list. Mine is in V4 3D trim and on aluminum, works just fine like that. It’s the original sample light from the X6 BLF SE group buy and it’s got some scars to prove it, but it’s truly a special edition and one I’ll hang onto forever.
I wish you’d filmed that, you need a Hero camera to capture that kind of run. Man that would have been fun to watch… (watching is all I could do, if I tried a run like that I’d DIE!)
PS: I have an X6 sitting here waiting for copper that has XP-L V6 3D wired up with 18ga wires top to bottom.
I like to do that as it seems the best way to guarantee water proofness. It can be a big of a bugger to keep the o-ring pressed back into place while tightening but it keeps it front and center where the water hits the light and prevents ingress.
I didn’t know it’d be possible to sheer the legs off, thanks for bringing that to our attention.
The shearing is pretty common so don’t mess with the light unless you have spares. The larger diameter and taller height of the cute-3 translates into greater leverage on the pins than for the smaller, shorter, 20mm triples.
You know it the hero cam, thats exactly what i thought after the initial actual shock 
of what i was experiencing you know that kind of “love at first sight jolt” that courses through your body started to subside & i could start to not only feel the magic of nature there all alone in the dark straining my body to not slip & moving at speed through the heavy snow, i already started missing it before it was over & i thought exactly i wish i had a Hero cam to capture this beauty, because i new i would tell about it but words can’t even come close to really capturing it.
The bad thing about the XP-L V6 3D tint is that it has totally spoiled every other tint i have seen yet, the 2C,3C,4C & other even worse CW’s just sticks out like a sore thumb now all yellow & green or harsh blue, & the worst of it is, we can’t even buy any more of them if i had know that it was this rare & i liked it this much i would have stocked up on them.
I used 18ga for the top & bottom on this also, it was extremely tight at the bottom though, i had to use some kapton tape to shield it from the switch threads after i soldered it to the switch negative.
The only thing not done is switch sides on the head retainer ring, because i didn’t have a good quality 2mm drill bit, and think i need to fix that sooner rather than later, because i think i may have a slightly weak ground, i sometimes get a slight flickering on level 3 of 4 that suspect (hope) is only some weak grounding problem.
Did you have the Cute-3 SS that goes through the xp32 noctigon, in to the drilled out holes in the spacer that Dale suggested, or did you have the shorter that don’t go so deep?
On one of my optic sets one of the pins doesn’t fully seat into the board. This would cause the lense to tighten down on just one edge of the optic and might be a cause of this problem but I think it more likely that it’s inherent in the size of the optic.
I use it without the lens, i don’t want anything screwing with my perfect 3D hue I use 2 o rings on top of the optic to make the optic secure, i doubt it is very water prof……but hopefully water resistant at least.
My plan is to get an extra xp32 noctigon from hank to raise up the whole triple xp32 & optic 2mm so i can get a snugger fit and only use 1 o ring, but with this optic snapping its legs issue i am having second thoughts……but if one grease the o ring & rim of the optic + inside of the head i hope it will move gentler & not snag on the optic.
I’ve built 3 or 4 triples, had them apart numerous times, and never sheared any legs off. Never even thought about as I didn’t know it could happen!
So, the idea to drill the legs and put Trits inside will make them weaker and once built it should stay built, right? 
Just got done assembling mine, the spacer was a perfect fit. It’s drawing a little over 7 amps on high and is now my brightest light.
One problem though: I accidentally fried the switch, so for now it’s a “tail twisty.” anybody know where to find a switch that will fit?
Richard has the little Omtens, you’ve got to do some bypassing…you sure it’s the switch or the spring that’s fried? I’ve been running twice that much current through these and have yet to (knock on wood) fry a switch.
The current didn’t fry it, my soldering iron did. The button no longer works.
Is it the omten 1288?