I just did a 7 X6 shootout, should have borrowed my dad’s stock one for comparison…didn’t think about that. My weakest one is 2222 lumens. 
I’m about to put up a thread showing pics of each and their lumens immediately before the pic was taken. I’ll link to it when I get that done here directly.
Check out my X6 Shootout!
7 Eagle Eye X6’s, none the same. 3 Quads, 2 Triples, an MT-G2 and an XHP70. All with varying heat sink material and optics. Lowest is 2222 lumens, highest is 5554. Yeah, 5500 lumens from an X6. Nuts huh? 
10x for your effort man, when my stuff ariive i will torment you with questions :bigsmile:
Interesting, whats the XHP70 modded X6 runtime at max?( the safe one)
The head of the light gets really hot, really fast. Battery run time really doesn’t come into play until you’ve played with it a while. “The safe one” ??? I have it where it can run on 2 18350’s or 2 18650’s. The 2 bigger cells give, of course, the maximum light. (And maximum heat)
This one really isn’t very practical. Fun, but not practical.
Nitro—My Quads and Triple arrived Saturday—good looking stuff-Thanks for getting that together for all of us
Glad u got them sorry it took awhile to get them done
Just wondering if this X6 Heatsink would fit a Convoy C8 I have lying around. The head is near identical in size. Maybe with some creative dremmeling?
My goodie box arrived and everything looks great! I couldn't be happier. Thanks, Nitro! :)
Hey guys I’m trying to decide on what modes would be good and need some advise, recommendations & opinions.
It will be a triple XP-L V6 3C with A17DD driver.
If 4 modes 25/50/75/100 then it could be considered 3 mode with turbo?
Not sure if I’d use the 25% on this light. Maybe 40/60/80/100 would be good?
I’m assuming 100% will create a lot of heat and only be able to use for short run time?
What would be the next lowest % that could be manageable for a longer run time?
What modes are some of you making these?
Thanks
You probably won’t even see the difference between 75% and 100. I have mine at 2, 20, 50, 100 and it is spaced very evenly.
The copper sink actually handles the heat very well. It takes over a minute for mine to get really hot. Mine is running at “only” 6 amps.
I have not had any problem running this 100% for long, the battery run out and the voltage sag way before it have been to hot.
But then i like it hot in the hand, if you would run it like a room light for some ceiling bounce it could possible get to hot, i don’t know.
Inside i mostly use it on low/medium, but when outside i only use it at full and i haven’t had any problem a new fresh battery can’t fix 
I will add that i has been winter here in Sweden, so it is possible this can change in the summer months, we’ll see
Thanks pilotdog, BTW what driver do you have?
cajampa what driver and what modes % do you have it set at?
I am not sure exactly what % of the 4+turbo levels are, i bought a BLF17DD driver from ledsmoke.
I’m using wight’s FET+1 driver
Are you using ToyKeeper's A6 firmware? I haven't been able to find much info regarding firmware for Wight's FET+7135 driver but am hoping to attempt building some soon. At first glance, the A6 firmware seems a lot more complex than the unmodified STAR. Thanks.
I have used the A6 fw, but not on this one. Just regular STAR off-time
Finished mine today with 3x XP-L V6 2C, 5-mode BLF17DD (the old one with stock FW) and spring mods.
I soldered the MCPCB to the heatsink and then glued it to the head with AS thermal epoxy. The heat transfer is incredibly fast and it takes a good time for it to get hot.
It draws 9.7A on turbo with a 25R, and the V6 2C tint is surprisingly close to CW, I was expecting it to be like NW.
The throw is about 2.5X at 2M compared to the carclo 20mm triple SS, same LEDs, battery and driver but in a copper Tri-EDC.
I’m going to build another one but this time with V6 1A, single sided BLF17DD and thermal paste with the heatsink so it can be removable.
I built one of my triples about week ago with V6-3c’s, I On a full charged Efast purple I get 12.5 amps, it does drop fast though. On these triple optics is it normal that there are three bright spots in the spill?
Are your optics sitting down on the board? The leg is stepped, and on some versions of the optic the stepped part that goes into the board is longer than the board is thick. (The Noctigon 32mm is 2mm, the leg is 3mm) So you either need to sand or file off that part of the optic that protrudes or simply drill a little indention into the heat sink for the optic to sit down into. This will probably be the end of the 3 bright spots you’re seeing…
I got in my heat sinks this week - excellent!! The quad needed some work to fit - was too tight for both the pill head and bezel, so took the dremel and sanding drum to them - not much had to be taken off, and suppose better tight than loose.
I posted this on Dale's X6 super mod shootout thread, but repeated here:
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I finished my quad X6 build yesterday and pretty happy with the results:
4284 @start, 3900 @30secs
Got the best tail reading with a SAM 25R @4.21v of 11.0A - 11.2A, so used it for the light measurements. With an EFEST 35A and LG HE2's, got just under 10.8A or so at 4.20 - 4.21v. Might have to do with the age and usage of the cells - dunno.
This is with Nitro's alum quad heat sink, the standard quad board, and quad optics from Richard that have been widened to fit domed XP-L's. I built up the quad MCPCB so long ago, forgot what exact XP-L's I used, but pretty sure I had the V6's, maybe 2A's - definitely warmer than 1A's because of nice white beam not a strong neutral, no sign of blues at all. The quad heat sink needed some TLC sanding/filing to fit, but not much. Some details:
)The only thing that bugs me on this setup is not securing the MCPCB tightly to the heat sink - it depends on pressure of the lens to the optic to hold down the MCPCB. Would much prefer the MCPCB screwed down but there doesn't seem to be any room on the crammed MCPCB. Maybe with some machining of the heat sink, I could create spaces to mount screws on the edges of the MCPCB, but haven't looked into that.
Not happy with the big drop in the first 30 secs, but like Dale says, to be expected. Also was hoping to squeeze out a little more lumens - might do more resistance tweaking, maybe use 20 AWG in the tailcap spring instead of 22. For the LED wires, 18 AWG silicone teflon would have been nice, but I didn't have any. Figure it would fit where 20 AWG silicone would fit.