Spinning the copper twisties! I like watching the little coils spin off from the lathe, fresh cut copper is smexy! :bigsmile:
lol, you need help. Does your wife know how you feel about copper?
exposed to be getting the copper boards today for the triples, says delivered but nothing im my mail box :(
Are these still available for order? What do I need to do, just send PP payment or is there a pecking order? Thanks.
just send payment for what u like and post here what u sent payment for and ill mark u down on post #2
Anyone want to play poker ;)
Love’s me some Noctigons!
Payment Sent
Unique Transaction ID # 9NX306225S326464C
Aluminum quad sink - $12 (qty 1)
Aluminum triple sink - $18 (qty2 @ $9)
32mm Noctigon triple - $10 (qty 2 @ $5)
CUTE-3-SS lens - $4 (qty 2 @ $2)
==========================
Total......................... $44
Shipping.................... $5.25
==========================
Total Due................... $49.25
Nice!
JohnnyMac i updated the 2nd post with your order
checking to see if anyone else would like any ? im building the drivers for the orders and gathering up the kits just waiting till the heatsinks are finished to start shipping
im having around 200pcs made just enough to fill orders and my builds ;)
Just built my first QUAD - using the 20mm XP Quad board, 4 XP-G2 S3 3C's (NW), and quad optics in a SupFire A6 host. I trimmed down one of Richard's spacers - of course I measured wrong somehow and it came out bout 1 mm short, but fortunately I sanded down the head's bottom lip to make up the 1 mm, and it turned out well with no lens, just the optics at the o-ring in the bezel/head. The stock lens in there looses about 10% of output.
I used wight's 17mm DD driver: A17DD-S08, OFF time memory, 4 modes, 60 sec turbo timeout. I measured 9.85A max tail on a fresh SAM 25R. Output drops like a rock, as expected 
. Lumens: 2397 @start, 2200 @30 secs.
I ended up using 22 AWG Teflon wire because of the narrow opening in the center of the Quad MCPCB, and that I used 3 wires as recommended for the 4P setup - that is one major limit. I filed the center hole a little bit, but stopped when I though I might ground out the center + or - layer to ground. The Teflon wire is a real PITA - I got a bunch because I used it originally, before switching over to silicon wire.
For the X6 Quad setup, I plan on using 4 XP-L V6 3D's I got in, but hoping to use 20 AWG wire. Maybe I could use just 2 wires thru the hole, and add a jumper to go from one 1/2 moon pad to the other? Or maybe I can file out the center hole bigger without worry of grounding it out?
Wire preferences are a funny thing. I just switched from using 22awg Silicone, to using 20 awg Teflon.
Tom, if you’re going to use a 2 cell light as a host you can Zener mod the fet driver and then just use the 2 wires to + - with the emitters in 2S2P. You do have to pay attention though as to how to place the emitters if you’re doing that.
I jumper across when running parallel. 20ga silicone wires, drill out the center as needed.
Edit: Funny on the emitters, I’ve been sitting on 4 V6 3D’s for my own quad X6 build in the copper sink. 
I might try to do the zener mod once these are mailed out so i can have a 2x18650 body made for mine for a MT-G2
The A6 is a small single cell, and plan on using one cell in the X6 (of course?). So the drilling didn't cause the center plane to ground out with the cut hole? Interesting... The jumper wire will sure help by reducing 3 wires down to 2 through the hole.
I bought the quad optic from Richard (and a small triple) with the LED openings widened out for fitting XP-L's. No clue how he does it, but looks pretty good. I also finally got in my qty 3 X6's (ordered Dec 8th, rcv'd Jan 21st).
Just cut a small bevel at the edge of the hole you drill to ensure the base (ground) is not contacting anything. A sharp knife will do it easily enough. 2 sizes larger drill bit will also do it, just ease it so you cut the bevel in the mask and stop at the copper base material. I always do the same with cutting stars down to fit a light, the bevel keeps the contact traces away from the edges.
I’m having trouble visualizing this. Is there a video/pic somewhere?
Ohh - I know exactly what u mean 
. Yes - I've done that too when I cut down MCPCB's. The live + or - trace is in a very thin layer, isolated from the main copper base of the PCMCB by a very thin insulation layer. When you drill or file into that layer, there's a chance that trace will now make contact to the base copper (frayed or curled at the cut edge), so bevel edging the cut will improve the chance that nothing funny happens on the edge, like the +/- layer frayed or pressed downward towards the copper base. I usually do it with a file, but what Dale is describing by using a knife or bevel edge drilling will work as well, I'm sure.
bevel which edge? the top? or the bottom/base? If you mean the top, wouldn’t it be easiest to just scrape away a little of the traces at the top, leaving the bottom insulating layer intact?