***PAY HERE Eagle Eye X6 Heatsinks (Triple & Quads)(CLOSED)

Now I’m wondering if there’s a difference between the models designed for different emitters? Mine said it was for “Intematix” whatever that is. It fits XM-L series just fine too. And of course, XP-L.

I bought the SS from intl-outdoor.com

ill post a pic here in a few of the one's i got /offeringspey phone had to charge lolbut i have the C10754-3-SS

The 11333 seems to be a standard, while the 10754 has a note attached that says it has 3mm pin height. Both are 19º with XM-L emitters, both are for that emitter as well as others.

I got the 10754 variant, and now I’m glad I did, because it allows me to lock the optic down with the legs going into the sink.

Any updates on when these will be ready?

yes pick up date is Wednesday to Friday i no its taking longer than expected but he is doing over 200 pcs by him self. It set him back few days because his belt broke on his CNC machine

as long as I get it by Christmas :wink:

Your on the bottom of the list know ;) i called him up and he said tomorrow but i herd we are exposed to be getting a bad winter storm but i will have them sent out by the end of this week

Paypal Sent. Cu Triple Kit.

I was another one that forgot to leave my Forum Username in the notes… but I did leave my name. Jared Mitchell of Donegal Pa.

post #2 updated its fine as long as u post to let me no :)

Woke up this morning with a text on my phone with this :)

Hell yeah!!! Hopefully one of those is due to be in my light soon.

With this :(

Keep the snow

Hush up dale i see your copper sink out there cooling down ;)

Dale do you have any pictures of the omten switch pcb trace wire bypass mod on the X6?

I think i remember you said, to drill a hole from the positive side of the switch so it end up inside the spring on the other side of the pcb, and solder a wire from the positive end of the switch directly to the spring bypass, to bypass the weak traces in the pcb.

But what about the - side is there any need to beef up that side?

I find that using a very small bit first can get the hole through under the spring, then a bit large enough to just squeeze in a 22ga wire can be fed through, if you pay attention to how the spring is mounted there’s an area directly above the end of the spring that gives the most clearance. If at all possible you can use this area to locate the hole.

The negative side is pretty much a direct connection, so it’s not as much of an issue. It’s got multiple vias feeding through to the switch side. The issue lies with the trace to the positive, it tends to burn at over 6A and extended run times.

Here I had the spring bypassed already, so I brought the wire up through and soldered it at the base. After this I started running it up through the middle and to the top of the spring in one piece for continuity.

I’ll try to get a shot of the one piece set-up after while…

What’s that white stuff nitro? Looks so strange. We don’t get that here.

Come visit and u will find out and head home within a min :) best thing about it, it keeps my flashlight cooler

Nice Dale, thanks

Good idea about using the same wire from the bottom switch straight through to the top of the spring :slight_smile: i will do that on the next one.