"PH-08" (UF-T50 clone), only $12


Modes are different than the T50 (Hi > Mid > Lo > Strobe > SOS (no memory), instead of ramping) but honestly, the T50's implementation of ramping is the worst way to do it I can think of. That's a momentary switch there, not a mechanical/latching clicky, so it would be a great host for drivers using the open source momentary firmwares. If FT's pics are representative, fit & finish looks identical to the original UF-T50.

I prefer the ZY-T11 or a clone. I often seen them around 10$ or cheaper. Uni-head design too, screw in ring to hold the driver in place.

I have been enjoying modified lights like these for close to a year. Great mod lights for the price.

More info here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/21292


Looks exactly like the XP-11: wallbuys.com/Product/XP-11. I got 2 of them, modded of course. One I bought from a BLF'er and it wound up having a short at the switch, so to fix it, had it rip off the rubber boot - now I got a bare open switch light - works well though. That brass ring is press fit on top of the edge of the rubber boot - can't figure out how to get the brass ring off.

Nice thing is the switch is not mounted on the driver, so you can swap out the driver. However, the heat sinking is not so good - brass tube that fits tightly in the tube, not threaded. I've found it does ok though - I like the light but the switch rubber cap is way too stiff, hard to press/activate - too hard. Stock UI stinks as well.

What size driver? 17mm

Yes - 17mm. All BLF info here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/22511. This light never got popular, but maybe because it was only available at WB, stock UI stinks, and heat mgt is suspect. I thought I had pics, but maybe never posted.

Edit: Ohh, here's a couple:

I have a genuine UF-T50, and in stock form the pill was secured only by being screwed onto the reflector and didn't touch anywhere else. I added a brass spacer at the bottom of the pill that makes it a press-fit in the head, and sized to put the front of the reflector back in the original location. It's a bit of a pain to work on but once it's assembled it's solid. I think it's likely these clones will have a simplified pill design that works better than the original.

(an XPG2 in that reflector gives one of the tightest spots of any light I own... just need to eventually fix the awful-UI thing)

The T50 stock driver is an interesting thing, safely (and officially, even) runs from 3v-8.4v, though I don't think it has any kind of low voltage protection. It's just a shame about that ramping that doesn't stop at the top & bottom, that's the missing feature that truly kills it.


Oh man, see you got a rev 2.0 17DD there - nice comfy!

Look'n at my close-up driver pic, why the heck did I add that other cap? Any idea? I just can't recall, though I remember doing it.

Oh what's funny, looks like the brass ring mod you did is exactly what they implemented in these clones! Which one came first?

With the thicker Noctigon and a thinner insulator (the thicker of the butterfly version, I think .030"?) the pill is fully seated against the bottom of the step in the head. It gets hot QUICK. However... with the thinner insulator the beam is butt-ugly, and the bezel won't screw on all the way with the thicker piece it used originally. I need to shorten something somewhere to gain a little extra space and still have it fit together the same as it is now. Fun, huh?

Minor update: This one from FT is a little thicker than the butterfly style, but still thin enough that the bezel screws down flush. -->http://www.fasttech.com/products/1581402

The beam is better with that one but not as nice as with the stock piece, if I ever have it apart again I'll trim a little off the bottom of the pill to free up space for the thicker insulator to go back in.


I bought one of these a while back, at the time I could not find a decent driver to replace the stinking next mode memory driver nor could I figure out how to disable a momentary switch next mode driver via the resistor trick so I drilled and installed a tailcap switch. Works great, also serves as a lockout for those who like to carry side switch lights in thier pocket.

The stock driver in the one I got wasn't next-mode, it just had to be cycled all the way thru the order to get back to a 0%/off mode.

Your right it wasn’t next mode but you did still have to cycle through all the modes to turn it off. That was reason enough for me to put in the tailswitch.
I have avoided sideswitch lights for this reason. It seems that the collaboration between you and several other members here have created drivers to remedy that problem. So let me personally thank you for your effort and dedication to resolving hindrances and making this hobby even more enjoyable than it already is.

Also check out the Roche F6 if you haven't already. A bit more compact than this one, much better build quality, and the stock UI isn't awful. It has strobe & SOS, but hidden by needing a really determined double click while on.

That looks pretty nice but does the mini usb input mean that it has a regulated on board charger for the 18650 or is an external charger with a mini usb plug still needed?

Direct solder to battery +, you need the USB tied into the spade or it runs 5vdc to the battery and NOT a charge controlled 4.2vdc CC/CV charge…good way to overcharge a battery and have it go kablooey on you if you didn’t know about Li Ion

That's optional, you remove the LED head and screw on the USB thing. I personally wouldn't bother.

I have one from FT (http://www.fasttech.com/products/1658300), they only offer the light by itself. Someone reported the ones sold by other vendors have a slightly different UI - mine always starts in high mode, the others supposedly remember the last mode.

He means this thing. http://www.banggood.com/Roche-F6-LED-Flashlight-Multifuction-USB-Head-Charger-p-908659.html