Been awhile since I’ve posted any photos. Haven’t done any major new mod builds, but I have continued to tinker with my existing lights and thought I’d post some updated photos.
From left to right:
- Manker BLF Special Edition A6 (unmodded, shown for scale) - 121mm long 18650 tube style light with reflector.
- Aleto N8 - 92 mm long 18650 zoomie. modded with black duracoat, electronic sideswitch with rubber button, FET driver with moppydrv firmware, 20mm aspheric lens, rubber grip, 5000K XPL HI.
- Aleto N8 - 88 mm long 18650 zoomie. modded with black duracoat, electronic sideswitch with metal button, FET driver with moppydrv firmware, 20mm fresnel lens, 5000K XPL HI.
- XTAR WK42 - 77 mm long 16340 reflector. modded with FET driver with moppydrv firmware, 4000K XPL HI.
- Convoy S2+ mini - 73 mm long 18500 triple. modded with electronic sideswitch, external heatsink, lumodrv firmware with FET driver, Triple XPL 3D.
Here’s a closer look at my current EDC:
It is a heavily modded Aleto N8 zoomie. The stock Aleto N8, which is no longer available, was the smallest 18650 zoomie ever marketed at 107mm long. For me, that wasn’t small enough for pocket EDC so I shrank it by 19mm. At just 88m long this is quite possibly the smallest 18650 zoomie ever built! The entire light is 4mm shorter than a Sipik 68.
The battery compartment has limited space, but does allow the light to fit 18650 cells up to 67mm long including button top Samsung 30Q, Efest 35A and LG HE4. Works with flat and button top. The flood mode is nearly 90 degrees wide. Much wider than that of a Sipik 68. Peak throw at turn-on with a fresh Efest 35A is approximately 29k lux. Downside is because the light is so small, it gets hot FAST. Turbo timer is set around 15 seconds or so due to heat.
The switch is a soft touch metal button, that requires minimal pressure to activate. The button is small and deeply recessed between a #6 finishing washer making accidental pocket activation very unlikely.
The light is so small that just looking at it, it looks more like a 16340 or 14500 light. The build is unusual in that the majority of the interior of the light is battery compartment. The relatively small pill only extends halfway down the bezel. Typically, lights with sideswitches mount the sideswitch in a compartment ahead of the battery compartment. Not so these lights, where the sideswitch is mounted on the outside of the battery tube and the battery extends below the switch.
I like this one for EDC because of it’s small size, good tint, extremely wide usable beam and ability to focus. Also, the outer casing is all metal so it’s faster to pull out of the pocket than my other Aleto N8.
I previously posted a long build thread detailing what went into modding the Aleto N8 . I ended up with two N8s, because after modding it so much I had enough spare parts to make a second one.
My other Aleto N8:
This one is very similar to the previous light. Main differences are I added a rubber grip to the body tube and installed a 20mm aspheric lens instead of a fresnel. Driver is the same. Due to the more efficient optic, this one is brighter … over 40k lux at turn-on with a fresh cell. The rubber grip around the body tube and rubber button provide exceptional grip, and the button is stiff enough that tailcap lockout isn’t necessary for pocket carry.
The rubber grip on this light is the “ribbed” portion around the battery tube and is in 3 sections.
Biggest downside compared to the fresnel lens version is its longer length (94mm), and that the rubber grip makes it slightly harder to pull out of the pocket.
Here’s some more photos of both of my Aleto N8s side-by-side:
The “frosted” look to the lens in the bottom picture of the leftmost light is actually the rings on the fresnel lens. The rings are so small and tightly packed they aren’t visible from a distance. This light has the fresnel lens mounted behind a glass protective lens.
Convoy S2 Mini+:
This is what happens when you take a Convoy S2+ mini, shorten the pill, remove the tailcap, add a sideswitch and external heatsink. I made a previous thread detailing the build on this light, but this photo shows the final external heatsink design.
Despite being much shorter than a stock Convoy S2+ mini 18350 light, my modded version runs on a much larger 18500 cell.
At 73mm long this light is tiny, but powerful. On an IMR 18500 cell it outputs around 2500 lumens on a fresh cell of beautiful 3D tint light. Very floody and impressively bright. Definitely not a thrower though.
The finish looks a bit “homemade” though. I don’t have the ability to apply fresh anodizing and Duracoat takes forever to cure. To try to match the Convoy S2+ mini’s beautiful grey anodizing, I mixed up acrylic hobbypaint and applied that, with a layer of super-glue as a lacquer on top. It looks ok, is very tough, and most importantly… is extremely fast and easy to apply. Biggest downside is the superglue looks too shiny, even when lightly sanded after application.
I’ve since revised this method with a new technique that gets rid of the shine. After applying the super-glue coat, I paint over the glue with a second layer of flat acrylic colored pain. If any of it wears through all it will reveal is the super-glue. This new method works well, but I haven’t yet tried updating this light with it.
XTAR WK42:
This is the second light from the right in the top picture. Not much to see since the exterior of the light is unchanged. Of the lights posted here, this one was by far the simplest mod. Latest update involved replacing the emitter with an XPL HI 4000K and the driver with a FET with moppydrv. This light has beautiful tint and amazing throw for such a small reflector light, though powered by an IMR 16340 cell it’s not an ultra-compact powerhouse like the other lights in this post.
Here’s a link to my previous BLF post describing this mod. Entire mod takes about 3 hours. While not hard, it’s still much more complex than a simple driver and emitter swap. The mod required making a new switch platform, and installing a new switch. Also, it was necessary to drill out some of the interior of the head to make room for the new driver.
See Post #12 for beamshots from the Aletos.