ohaya
(ohaya)
June 10, 2013, 4:13pm
97
Werner:
Yes it’s a bit different. But if you have a thicker non standard c8 the tube could fit.
What’s with the threads of the tubes on your v6 ohaya? Are they fitting?(see picture4)
Mine aren’t even matching the color of anodisation.
I am not sure why I have bought this…I think because it was cheap.
But I have no need for it, perhaps I will put a xpg2 on a noctigon in it…but then I would still never use it…
I have a zyt13 after I modded it, I never have used it….
There is some contact issue with the adapter ring or so, I have lubed it up with some silicone grease perhaps that is why, but it was really hard to unscrew and this was the first lube I grabbed…I will clean and measure tailcapcurrent a on different voltages later.
edit: cleaned and lubed correctly, works now like it should. But the construction is weird the current flows through the battery tubes in the head, from head through reflector, from reflector through pill and finally reaches the negative contact on the circuit.
Thermal path isn’t perfect either…
The lens rattling occurs if you screw in the pill completely in the head and then screw the bezel on. That’s why the reflector is not reaching the lens.
Solution is easy just screw the whole pill/reflector from the circuit side one turn up against the lens…voila rattle solved.
The driver is nice regulated i checked from 4V until 13V
The spill is ugly, spot is smaller than my zyt13(3A through emmitter) but not brighter.
The lens has some weird coating in the middle part it looks like a drop of oil on water and it is dusty as hell inside the reflector…never had that before on a brand new light.
Lanyard is ok not sure what it is good for but I can swing the light around like a knight and no weak link ring like often on Chinese things,
Tailcapboot is bit too thick like always so it doesn’t stand on tailcap well if switched on(reverse clicky gets bigger if switched on)
It gets hot and that’s always a good sign, not sure if I want a shorty with increased current…but with an xpg and lower current maybe it doesn’t get so hot.
The size of the light is how I like it, I have screwed the scratched part in the head.
I would say its worth the 19$, but no super cheap deal but also no total desaster.
The dust is a nogo and the missing mode selection, too.
Werner,
Thanks for the detailed info.
First of all, I’m not sure what you were asking about the threads? Can you clarify?
Beyond that I think that I found pretty much the same things you found, including the dusty reflector and some kind of clear “spatter” on the lens, and the loose lens rattling :).
I haven’t done anything with the dusty reflector yet, but I’ve ordered a new UCL/p lens for it, and did the same thing with screwing the reflector out to get the lens to stop rattling.
Now, I have an XP-G2 in it on a regular star, but may replace that with an XP-G2 on Noctigon later, and I have a couple of other threads about what I’ve been doing it:
- Made it into a shorty:
Hi,
I’ve seen this:
and I have a FandyFire STL-V6, which I ended up configuring for direct-drive, and replacing the emitter with an XP-G2 LED, so it only uses 1x18650 now:
So, if possible, I’d like to make my FandyFire STL-V6 into a “shorty”.
I’ve seen references to using a C8 body, and I have a bunch of different C8s, but none of their bodies work with my FandyFire STL-V6 “head”. The opening at the back of the STL-V6 head is larger diameter than any of the front of the bodies of any of …
- Did some work with improving thermal handling:
Hi,
I made a “shorty” STL-V6 recently:
and since the STL-V6 is now direct drive, I’ve been trying to improve the heatsinking a bit.
The way that the FandyFire STL-V6 that I have is designed, there’s a brass pill, which screws into the reflector from the tube end, and then the reflector+pill screws into the head from the front end.
So, the front end of the pill, where the emitter is, screws into the back end of the reflector, which screws into the front end of the head.
Thus, the thermal p…
With the former (shorty), I think that the light is much more useable (1x26650 size), and with the latter, the light seems to be handling heat pretty well.
Thanks again,
Jim