Edit. Run time tests.
Edit two. Trustfire 26650’s used in run time tests.
At the start battery voltages were 4.1 volts with a ceiling bounce reading of 68.
20 minutes, ceiling bounce 65.6, temp 47C.
30 minutes, ceiling bounce 70.5, temp 55.2C. It would appear that the current from the driver was increasing slightly as the voltage in the batteries dropped.
45 minutes, ceiling bounce 65.2, temp59.5C.
60 minutes, ceiling bounce 63.6, temp 59.9C, maximum temp reached.
75 minutes, ceiling bounce 55.3, temp 57.2.
Shortly after this the light output dropped off dramatically. It still had 3 modes so I dont think it was low voltage protection kicking in. When the temp measurement was around 55C the light itself was to hot to hold. When the light had cooled down battery voltage was at 3.15 volts/cell.
I’m running that driver in an IOS T10B with an MT-G2 right now. I’m very happy with it. I originally had what seems to be the same driver from IOS, that comes with a contact board, but something went wrong with it after a few hours. I don’t know if I did something or what. I sent that driver to relic to see if he could find the problem. The LCK driver has been working just fine. A nice driver for that host.
for several small triples, and I’ve been trying to “characterize” it, so, out of curiousity (asked RIC, but never responded), I was wondering what it’d do with an MT-G2, so just for fun, I hooked up a 6V MT-G2 with it, outside a light, and with a single TF 26650. I measured both tailcap and emitter current using a clamp meter:
Tailcap: 1.65 amps
Emitter: .65 amps
I was kind of surprised that it actually worked, and actually, the light was kind of blinding :)! I also think that I could get a little better current, because I was using long, relatively high-gauge test leads, plus a tailcap switch that I pulled off of an old light.
It’s not a super-powerful driver, but thought that you all might be interested in something different :).
With Noctigon + MT-G2, Nanjg 105c from FT and 8 extra 380 mA chips with zener/resistor mod (AW22 silicone wire short as poss):
Tailcap readings:
Got 5.84 A high (Actually hit max calced from chips on DMM - approx AW 12 leads!)
Med 2.4 A
Low 0.31 A
7.2 A draw DD on same batteries.
Incredibly bright! Calced run time rather short though with 2 x AW IMR 18350’s! Approx 7 - 8 mins!
If anyone has any suggestions for a battery extension tube for this POPPAS Id be very grateful!
Edit: Just thought Id ask has anyone tried the East-92 driver with 2 x Li? I was speaking with Ryansoh and perhaps a similar mod would be possible to protect the MCU if that might be a prob? Cheers
I had a few spare drivers that were pulled from the J-19’s I modded. It’s the same driver as in the old 3XT6 trustfire I am told. It says 4.8amp on the outside of it. It does a very nice job running a single MT-G2. I can’t say how many amps or lumens exactly but it’s pretty nice. Not as many lumens as the dry driver with two batteries but not too far behind. Plus I de-domed this one so a side by side comparison doesn’t really quite count. However if I had to guess I would say that it’s actually putting out the 4.8amps. Both the DRY driver and the 4.8amp driver were rewired with 20 gauge wire.
It’s in a ZY-T08 with the flat bottom of the reflector taken out, the batteries in series, emitter de-domed, it turned out pretty nice. Obviously it could be pushed harder but I’m not going to mess with it. It outthrows a stock T08 with tons of flood and isn’t heating up bad at all.
Has anyone done a straight DST with MT-G2 conversion and stock driver? ohaya’s above is listed as “stock” in first post but actually directly connected to cells.
Just wanted to post that I used the same Lustefire driver as Relic38 did, the LusteFire 3XU2-X3 and it rocked. I used it to drive a single MT-G2 in a ZY-T08 and all I can say is WOW!!! I had to file it down to get it to fit but it worked perfectly. I don’t know how many amps but it’s enough to pop the protection on two Panasonic 3400’s. It doesn’t do it right away though. It takes about 30 seconds for the protection to turn it off. With samsungs it’s no problem and damn is it bright.
Just finished my MT-G2 Small Sun ZY-T08 last night. It is basically the same as Relic’s. Cut traces on switch, jumpered switch to spring with 18AWG wire then added solder blob to contact plate for negative battery connection.
MT-G2 on Noctigon
DRY driver
18 AWG connecting driver to contact plate
26 AWG from driver to LED (may change this to 22 AWG)
Copper braided springs
Turbo NCR18650PD: 5.66A
Turbo INR18650-20R: 6.65A
This thing is BRIGHT on the 20Rs! I don’t have a light meter but the hotspot is about the same brightness as my XinTD V4 XM-L2 at 3.8A but is around twice as big! In my extremely subjective ceiling bounce test it puts my 3T6 DRY driver and SRK to shame. Assuming around a 15% driver loss the emitter should be seeing around 5.6A, which should give around 3,000 emitter lumens. It does suck the cells dry at an alarming rate on turbo. About 12 minutes on turbo and they went from 4.22 volts down to 3.5 volts!
The DRY driver has decent mode spacing but the whine may just be too much for me. I think that I am going to switch this for a zener modded NANJG sometime in the future.
I wonder why it’s whining? I built a MT-G2 with a DRY and it didn’t have any whine at all. I have heard of people getting whine from different drivers and fixing it with an extra ground wire. Maybe that would help you out.
My 3T6 build with the DRY also whines/hums, even a bit louder than the MT-G2 build. I can hear it in every mode. Where are you adding an extra ground wire at? I don’t see how it would even be possible in the ZY-T08… everything is connected straight to the cells through the contact plate, nothing runs through the body of the flashlight.
Where you can really hear it loudest on both my lights is coming from the switch area!
You may be able to remove the whine by swapping the switch for a new/better one or attempt cleaning the contact surfaces with a glass brush.
My severely overworked Apex switch (Omten 1.5A running at over 16Amps) also whines at times, especially when I semi press the switch just before it looses contact or when running for a while and the light gets warm. That’s with the KD 7135 v2 drivers that I’ve never heard whine otherwise.
I think if the driver is not actually the source of the whine then any less than perfect points of contact may be the cause. I would guess that’s why people see an improvement and recommend a second grounding path for the driver board.
