As much as I consider myself having pretty good understanding and speaking of english language, I have to admit it is pretty hard to understand what you mean.
What you are trying to express may be clear in your mind, but writing without commas or other punctuation signs can really mess things up even for native readers.
“… on 100% it's flashing turn on 100% and every second it flashes only on 100% all other levels are fine.”
So when you put the flashlight driver on 100%… it's flashing turn on 100% :???: and every second it flashes…
Maybe you meant to say when on 100% it starts blinking once a second sort of like a turn signal?
If so, it sounds like the low voltage warning from the driver.
A driver like that, outputting above 30W of power in high (100%) mode, can and will pull above 10A of current from the battery (depending on battery SoC) and battery current path resistances. Using high power drivers, it is very important to bypass springs. Standard, non-bypassed springs drop a lot of voltage (and power) when a high current goes through them, consequence of their high resistance. Even the so called high current springs I've seen… suck a lot less than standard springs, but still suck a bit.
You tell me. Did you checked the condition of their springs, namely if bypassed? I don't know what type of springs do S11s ship with, but both S11 tailcaps you describe should perform the same. At least for as long as their springs feature the same conductivity and their switches are in optimal condition. The kind of switches these use don't really like going much above 10A (check: switchtesting -june13th2015:additional test by MRsDNF in post#44-), and so it is rather important for their condition to be as pristine as possible. I can't say what switches are used in the S11, other than it looks like Omten 1288s.
In Review: Convoy S11 I see a standard spring in the tailcap with a thin, uncoiled wire bypass. In my experience, uncoiled bypasses are prone to break very soon. An uncoiled wire ends up bending around/at the same point and eventually breaking (raw copper is not exactly elastic). A proper bypass is done with a thicker wire (to reduce resistance), and coiling it. Coiling the wire can be done either internally or externally (internal or external to the spring). Internal coiling (inside the spring) is aesthetic and can be done but is also tricky (done it many times), so you may want to try external coiling (around the spring), at least for a start. A properly done low angle external wire coil should last for ages.