Hi BLF-ers … thought I would take a moment to explain UT-01 and E-11 programming. Something that seems to go un-noticed in most YT reviews.
Cheers!!
you should also explain how to get the light changed from basic modes to the advanced setting
press and hold 5a, till it blinks 1 time for simple operation
and again press and hold 5s till it blinks 2 times for advanced settings you shown in the video
Cool… I didn’t know it did that. Thanks for the tip.
I’ve had the UT01 since it’s release and had no idea it could do that, thanks! :+1:
Thanks for this info!
I love this light. And this makes it even more useful!
Would there be a “reset to factory setting” brightness level?
I’d like to try re-programming the UT01, but would like to reset it to ‘default values’ after testing out the various programming options.
eg. at default values: “moon” is likely the lowest brightness level. But which brightness level setting is medium and high? I suppose Turbo is simply the highest brightness available.
Also, does battery check work with both AA and 14500 or only on the lithium-ions?
I don’t think you can set it back to factory program… AFIAK.
Battery level check works with all chemistry.
I’m pretty sure that factory setting for moon is not the lowest setting. I’d guess that they come from the factory set in the middle position for each mode, but I’m not 100% sure.
Thanks. Possibly.
I tried to measure tailcap current with my uncalibrated Mastech MS8229 multimeter.
UT01 (neutral white) w/ PKCell ICR14500 (unfortunately I don’t have a better 14500 like IMR14500) - factory default:
lowest: 0.026A (factory default)
low: 0.13A (factory default)
med: 0.44A (factory default)
high: 1.30A (factory default)
and on UT01 (cool white) using the same PKCell ICR14500 (attached a tiny magnet to make it ‘button top’) — my UT01 CW’s head does not have good contact with the flat-top 14500; also I think I had accidentally reprogrammed it when I was trying out the programming method illustrated above (and I hadn’t measured tailcap current prior to that, but I reprogrammed the brightness level as follows):
lowest: 0.007A (programmed to “lowest” setting)
low: 0.107A (programmed to “lowest” setting)
med: 0.38A (programmed to “lowest” setting)
high: 1.56A (programmed to “highest” setting)
Cool thanks for measuring current draw. I have both of my lights programmed like the bold text above.
For kicks and giggles I tried to re-set the Manker E11 back to factory by turning off the deep-programming mode. But it just reverted back to my programmed modes above.
Sorry, have to make some update, the previous readings were with the 14500 battery at 4.12v.
I freshly charged the battery to 4.20v and then made measurements again:
UT01 (neutral white) w/ PKCell ICR14500 – factory default:
lowest: 0.027A (factory default)
low: 0.133A (factory default)
med: 0.47A (factory default)
high: 1.38A (factory default)
(slight increase compared to above; they seem to match the readings from one of the UT01 review, except my ‘high’ is a bit low, I recall in giorgoskok’s UT01 review, he got 1.8-2.0A on ‘high’ with IMR 14500 battery)
and on UT01 (cool white) using the same PKCell ICR14500 (attached a tiny magnet to make it ‘button top’)
lowest: 0.007A (programmed to “lowest” setting)
low: 0.115A (programmed to “lowest” setting)
med: 0.40A (programmed to “lowest” setting)
high: 1.66A (programmed to “highest” setting)
(slight increase with a freshly charged battery, but ‘high’ is still not as high as the ‘1.8-2.0A’ readings of one of the reviews; or maybe because I’m using tailcap current, while giorgoskok maybe uses a proper DC clamp ammeter?)
Also, the ‘high’ readings are a bit difficult to measure with my multi-meter because applying more pressure or adjusting slightly will alter the readings quickly…
any idea on the current draw while using NiMh?
.
and possibly for all 3 options for the moon mode?
With regards to moon mode, I don’t think my multimeter is accurate enough to do measurements precisely, the slightest movement seems to cause a different reading.
Even when measuring the Turbo/High modes, the readings are quite jumpy (seem to be more jumpy than when I’m measuring other flashlights’ tailcap current — possibly because the contact points of my UT01s are quite poor.) My UT01 CW arrived DoA without my ‘fixing’ with a piece of wire at the tailcap, and the “+” button side also fails to make contact properly/consistently with flat-top batteries. My UT01 NW also regularly fails to work on NiMh, I have to insert a 14500 battery first when this happens, then insert the NiMh to make it work).
But anyway, I used a new freshly charged Fujitsu/FDK AA NiMh:
as mentioned, the tailcap current readings are very jumpy, but both UT01 NW seems to have a high of around 3.1-3.2A while the UT01 CW seems to have a high of 3.3A (momentary). Usually it hovers around the the 2.4-2.9A, I’ve already tried to hold my hands as steadily as possible, but still jump current — likely due to the body tube contacts are not making contact properly.
Ok, what kind of probes are you using? the usual pointy ones or the crocodile clip ones?
I don’t have Turbo after beacon on mine… it keeps cycling between strobe-SOS-beacon 
you need to change first between the 2 Mode groups
Stoopid me :person_facepalming:
Thank you, it works now 
Does the Thorfire TK05 w Sofirn driver also have programmable modes?
I followed the video, but a single click from strobe just turns the light off
I tried the 5s hold from off, and nothing happened, the light stayed off
I tried the 5s hold from on, and the light turned off
on my light meter the modes are 6-73-204 w eneloop
Decided to get out my UT01 (so far it’s mostly just in storage due to the issues, and I take it out only for comparison purposes)
my UT01 NW still has some semblance of “normal” —
- using AA NiMh, works normally: 4 brightness levels, no need to break-circuit to turn ON when turned OFF
- using 14500: 4 brightness levels, NEED to break-circuit to turn ON when turned OFF
my UT01 CW has become more abnormal since last I tested —
- using AA NiMh (the exact same battery above), it only has 2 brightness modes: Low-High-High-High - Low (ie. the 2nd-3rd-4th clicks are exactly same brightness of “High”, before it cycles back to Low) ; NEED to break circuit (ie. unscrew body tube) to turn ON when turned OFF
- using 14500: 4 brightness levels, NEED to break circuit to turn ON when turned OFF
Now, I thought of reprogramming the UT01 CW, but even in programming mode, the 3 selectable brightness steps for each brightness level are still exactly the same — so I couldn’t select a different brightness level. Anyway, I decide to leave it at that for now.
I decided to check the tailcap current of the UT01 NW while doing the reprogramming brightness levels, and jotted down these results (actually I video’d it, but it has a lot of external noises, and also the Turbo mode was too bright to read my multimeter in the default video, had to adjust brightness/contrast settings in the video player program so I could make out the readings…)
Anyway here are the results (note: I’m now using a different multimeter than the one I’m using in my reading above last year, plus I’m using a different battery in these readings below, a VBatty IMR14500, charged to about 4.10v when I did the testing below)
UT01 NW, brightness programming levels steps (3 selectable steps per brightness level):
Low : 0.007A - 0.024A - 0.037A
Med : 0.122A - 0.148A - 0.174A
High : 0.418A - 0.526A - 0.640A
Turbo: 0.87A - 1.19A - 1.50A
(the max Turbo level could likely be higher if using a fully-charged battery…)
nice
thanks
just like [also] manker u11
same limitations too, the ‘moon’ is still too far from the ‘low’,for me…
rather have the low go lower like 1-2 for the moon light, then 10-30 for low, then 100-200 for high, then 500-1000 for turbo
they picked weird levels, imho
wle