SunLike, thank you so much for sharing the data for the various incandescent sources! It's a real surprise for me to learn that some of them don't measure that high on CRI or R9.
Do you happen to own an incandescent light bulb with a powdery light blue coating on the inside, and if so, would you test its spectrum and color rendering? (An example is General Electric "Reveal" series.)
I am very interested because this coating (Nd2O3) filters out yellow wavelengths and oversaturates reds tremendously. To my eyes it renders colors much better than an unfiltered incandescent, but I conjecture that it will test with low R9 and maybe even low CRI.
I received two boards from Lampman, one with 2700kSunlike/660nmred combi, and one with 5600KSunlike/bare pads on the second channel (not sure yet which leds I will solder there). I still have to find a way to get him the money because he has no paypal now.
But in the meantime I checked the 2700KSunlike/660nm board out in my LT1. Here are the two extreme tints, when tint-ramping I get the intermediate tints. The pure 660nm looks much much deeper red than the picture shows, photo camera’s are bad in reproducing deep reds.
As expected, the 2700K tint was very high CRI, just a bit lower than 2700K and just a bit under the BBL. What happens if you ramp-in the 660nm’s is that of course the CCT goes down but also immediately the tint nose-dives under the BBL to rose without the yellow/orange that happens if the BBL was followed. Abandoning the BBL so much will also lead to loss of CRI of course. I have not measured output (yet) but the amount of 2700K light is plenty and the amount of 660nm is pretty intense, which is impressive given that the human eye is fairly insensitive to this wavelength.
I think the tint-traject that this lantern follows is much fun, and time will tell how useful it is. For the other board’s empty channel I will try to find high CRI leds in the 2300K range, maybe even Rngwn’s 5mm straw-leds because why not
Here are a range of the tints from the 2700kSunlike/660nm LT1, the first and last are the begin and end of the tint-ramp, for the last two tints towards pure 660nm my spectrometer refuses to give CCT/colour information, too far away from the BBL:
many thanks for good review! for spectrums too. I am still waiting LT1 flashlight and 18650 cells, it will be soon. As I expected, mixing with 660nm seems really nice and pretty =) And yes, it is beautiful deep red color.
Also I have another version of 2835 leds with bigger crystals
не путай мягкое с тёплым. и не ври. нет нигде рекламы СССР. ОТК это ОТК, а ты занимаешься демагогией. В итоге это мои платы, что хочу, то и маркирую. Разрабатывай свои и рисуй там что хочешь, хоть 6ти цветную радугу
do not confuse soft with warm. and don’t lie. there is no advertising of the USSR anywhere. OTK is OTK, and you are engaged in demagogy. As a result, these are my boards, I mark what I want. Develop your own and draw whatever you want there, at least a 6-color rainbow
Thanks for the tip! Mouser still has the 20dollar shipping so I hesitate.
I also think of the Luminus Cube, I have them in house in 1800K/80CRI and in 2700K/95CRI, a mix of those should give a pretty result also, and I do not have to buy leds.
I went for the Cube! I had them in house, in 2700K 95CRI, and in 1800K 90 CRI. On the warm channel I used a 50/50 mix of those. The cool channel already had 5600K Sunlike leds soldered by Lampman.
What was tricky is that in the above video I did not alternate between the channels but went cool>cool+warm>cool>cool+warm etc. So the cool channel did not light when combined with warm, apparently the voltage of the Cube leds is much lower than the Sunlike leds. That should only be a problem if the LT1 has at any moment both channels on at the same time, but I reckon that Toykeeper made the tint-mixing so that the channels always alternate and are thus not in each others way.
(I used a resistor in the warm channel to light both channels to make this photo)
The resulting tints:
Cool only:
Warm only:
Somewhere halfway the tint-mix:
I love the improved tint range compared to the stock LT1 (stock went from about 4500K to 2600K) and the improved CRI and duv does not hurt either. Now I need an extra LT1 for that 2700K/660nm Lampman board that I just swapped out for this one.
