Some lights have shipped with the bezel not glued.
Make sure you keep the bezel tightly closed.
When the bezel unscrews, the optic can rotate and the legs drag across the LEDs, ruining the phospor.
If you unscrew the bezel intentionally, be sure to prevent the optic from rotating.
(photos are from that link, not of my own light):
Thanks for the heads-up! Mine is still in the mail and should arrive sometime next week, Dog willing…
I for one would like if my TiTS10 came with an unglued bezel – then I would lock it with Locktite Blue or similar so it would keep tightly closed but can still be loosened by a less-than-herculean use of force.
Is the light in the pic of your TI TS10?
Obviously a real stupid question based on the name of the thread… DUH!
Did it just unscrew with normal use?
In any case, not good.
Mine was definitely loose out of the box. I carefully tightened it and went on my way.
correct, the bezel unscrewed on my TiTS10 when I meant to remove the head for a battery change.
but those are not my photos… my light is fine, I noticed the bezel turn and did not proceed to any damage. I retightened it with a strap wrench and have not had any other problem with it coming loose.
I will mark the photos as not mine, to be clearer.
Mine did the same thing.
I will not buy another one of these TiTS10 when they change the finish.
The thermal deal I knew going in, but the bad loose head deal, gritty ass batt tube threads even after good lube is just Donkey Doo. I hate thread locker but this light should have had it, if it will stick to the demon titanium.
This light is a Ginger, give me the Mary Ann 
Costs less, puts out better and lower maintenance.
No more Ginger.
That’s just an accepted tradeoff of titanium, until you get into customs. I have Ti lights that cost a lot more and while the threads are nicer, they’re not at all good on most.
I lubricated my TiTS10 w Nyogel 760g and it completely masks the grittiness of titanium. Gritty threads are obvious when using a thin high quality oil such as Nano Lube.
another fun fact about Nyogel, is that it glows under UV:
I use Nyogel 760g on all my lights now, I no longer use Nano Oil.
I have tried so many types of lube over the years. None of them have been able to smooth out either Ti or Stainless Steel threads. I mean different oils, different synthetics, silicon paste, specialty firearms lubes, etc. etc. Right now I have at least a dozen jars and bottles of lube in my “lube” drawer. I have not tried the nyogel. So I ordered some. Just a little concerned about how it gets along with various types of O-rings. I think it will need to be carefully applied, sparingly. It is a dielectric. I wonder what it does to the conductivity on what should be bare metal threads??
how it gets along with various types of O-rings
I also wanted to learn more about O ring compatibility.
I was reassured by this (link includes MSDS):
“OVEREADY applies 760G to every chassis we ship
Uses:
Lubricating head and tail threads
Lubricating o-rings”
I have been very happy with my experience using Nyogel. I like it better than Krytox 205, Superlube, or Nano Oil. Darksucks has a pretty good product for Ti threads, I like Nyogel better… it glows under UV 
It is a dielectric. I wonder what it does to the conductivity
yes, I was also interested in learning more about that apparent contradiction
it turns out that the threads are not the primary electrical path
For example, lights with anodised threads have an electrical path from the end of the body tube, to the contact ring on the driver. It is the same with Nyogel.
I agree it is good to apply all lubricants sparingly. They interfere with electrical conductivity if they accumulate on the end of the body tube and on the contact ring of the driver. I make a point of wiping those areas off, I do not want any lube there.
you can see in this photo that I avoided coating the ends of the body tubes with Nyogel:
Nyogel helps the O ring keep water out. It is compatible with typical flashlight O rings. It is good enough for Oveready, and I agree with them
Yeah, I’ve never used anything but Nyogel (well, and Ford XG-12 which is the same but available cheaper). Always really liked the UV reactivity for checking application.
I recall…now… reading that the XG12 is the same as 760. Indeed, if it is the same (I found a few sources that say they are the same, but nothing official), it is about half the price. I wish I would have thought about it before I ordered the Nyogel.
Were the bezels ever glued? I don’t remember seeing any
Ford XG-12 on Amazon costs $20 vs $26 for the Nyogel 760G… at that difference I would rather buy the latter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NUBB28
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FD145CP
EDIT: and the XG-12 is not sold nor shipped by Amazon…
But the XG-12 is 3.2 oz (85 grams) versus 1.76 oz (50 grams) for the Nyogel. And the initial listing I got for Nyogel was $25. I got it for $19. The XG-12 for $21.
So the Nyogel is pretty darn close to twice as expensive… So I bought the XG-12 as well. In the interest of science of course…
EDIT, as long as I get it and shipping is free… I am not concerned.
I would return the XG-12 and save myself $2
even though the Nyogel tube contains a smaller quantity
the Nyogel is already a lifetime supply…
even though it is the exact same product inside both tubes
I dont need the 50% extra quantity in the XG-12 tube
less cash out of pocket, trumps more lube than I need… lol
There’s some discrepancies looking at the physical properties of the two. For example, Nyogel 760G states 321°C is the flash point, for the XG12 its 204°C. That’s gotta be significant no?
Depends how many lights you have. I’m halfway through a tube in a year.
I use SuperLube, both PTFE gel and their dedicated O-ring lubricant on all my lights/ O-rings, and am thus far satisfied with the results. I have tubes of Nyogel 760G from work, but have never tried it on my lights. Would you have a comparison to offer as to the enhanced efficacy of the Nyogel as opposed to SuperLube? I’m always open to trying something better if it’s available (and it’s available ).
I feel Nyogel has a smoother action. My impression was that superlube was more tacky and the O ring would bind to the head more, which required me to use a thinner oil on the O ring.
With Nyogel 760G, the O ring glides without needing a thinner oil, yet the thickness of the Nyogel works well to fill gaps and pad the threads so there is no grittyness to Ti threads.
Try it yourself and let us know your impressions.