It probably is glued in. Try heating it up to see if that will loosen that glue a bit.
Try both clockwise and anti-clockwise direction.
+1 on this, reverse threads are common on the tails of fhashlights…for obvious reasons
1. Tried unscrewing it clockwise with no luck. Then tried anti clockwise again. Still no luck despite using a lot of force.
2. Then tried to heat up the flashlight head. As carefully as I could using the stove.
Like magic, the retainer ring then unscrewed with ease. Anti clockwise. I can not see any obvious traces of glue between the threads, but applying heat definitively did the trick! 
I don’t know if there is any hard to spot glue in there, or if this was just an effect of the different metals of the flashlight body and the retainer ring reacted/expanded differently when heated up.
Non the less, it worked.
Thanks guy’s
So. The driver looks to be identical with the one in Jubeldum’s short JM07 review in this thread: Review: ThorFire JM07 Mini Review and Tear Down.
None of my other lights have electronic switches in addition to a physical clicky like the JM07 has. So I have no experience with this kind of driver. What am I looking at here really?
I want to swap the driver for one that pulls more amps (this one is just over 22 mm by the way). What kind of driver can I find that has this little switch on the side?
Edit: (Changed the thread topic to reflect the most current issue)
That driver looks a lot like the one that came out of my Roche F6. I replaced it with the Ferro Rocher driver created by member Helios and flashed it with ramping firmware by Toykeeper. It’s a “build it yourself” FET driver so it’s direct drive on the highest mode. I get 3.5A on a full samsung 26f laptop pull and 4.5A on a Sony VCT5. Thread is here. Links to the board and parts are in the thread on page four. Firmware is in Toykeeper’s repository, though STAR for e-switches will work.
I have never built a driver for myself (yet!). Neither have I tried programming them. Yet…
I was really hoping to find a finished driver that would let me overdrive the flashlight. Building and flashing by myself is a challenge I will take up at some point. Got a learning curve though. And learning this stuff takes time.
Was hoping to get this flashlight built in a reasonable time frame 
THANKS though for helping out!
Contact RMM and ask him. I do not know of another driver for that light, because of the integrated switch. It makes it more difficult and takes a lot more knowledge. Probably a resistor could be changed to give that driver more amps.
There are other options for just taking a 17mm driver and soldering it to some copper sheet. Another user HERE did a very meticulous version and has a beautiful light, just chocked full of copper…
Copper sheet can be purchased at Banggood and other places…
The copper work in the thread you linked to ReManG is simply beautiful.
My problem however, is not the 22mm size. I think I’ll be able to solve that. Just not as beautifully as in that other thread
It’s the tiny, integrated electronic switch that is placed on the side of the driver board. This switch is pushed down by the thin rubber side button on the flashlight.
That one puzzles me.
Hadn’t considered the switch….
Could you strip all the components off the board, save the switch and “float” an Eswitch driver in the driver section? This way the board and switch are still in place and wouldn’t require a full custom driver. I am awaiting my light as well, so my speculation will get more defined when I get it in…
Um… I’m afraid I don’t quite understand what you mean here. Guess I’m just not experienced enough to make sense of that technical, compact description
Could you elaborate?
More pictures of the driver
The Warsun CT9T (and other Warsun models) driver is nearly the exact same physical dimensions (22.75mm dia. 24mm across the nubs, and side switch that looks to be inset a little further inwards with relation to the center of the board). Not that it matters much, as you probably find the same limitations as your original driver. There are plenty of teardown and mod threads to track down suggestin stock and modified amps achieved with that driver.
Floating a driver means that you use a driver that is smaller than the original, in this case a 17mm e-switch driver from some place like Mountain Electronics. Example is HERE and you would select some electronic switch firmware for this driver, standard or custom levels.
You strip all of the components off of the board with nippers or pliers, except for the side switch (the electronic switch) and the spring on the battery side. Then solder a black wire to the inside of the driver (away from the battery spring side) and then drill as small hole in the center of the board, and thread a wire to the end of the spring. Solder this wire (should be RED for +) to end of the spring.
Now your “old” stock driver has a switch, a spring and two wires on the side away from the battery. Use the two wires to connect the battery power to the new, smaller driver, + (red) to the center of the driver, - (black) to the side ring of the driver (order the new driver without a spring) and you have transferred power to the new driver. Keep these wires short, you will have to pack them into the head at some point. The new driver will have emitter wires, these go to the LED. The switch wires will go to the e-switch on the original board. Connect the switch wires to the contacts on the switch, it doesn’t matter which color to which side, the switch just makes the contact, no positive or negative here. Then wrap the new driver in silicon tape, or electrical tape and stuff the whole assembly into the head.
Run the emitter wires from the new driver into the LED area and hook them up. Floating the driver in this manner just uses the old board as contact points and the new driver “floats” in the driver chamber, as it is not connected to anything besides the wires going to it. The electrical tape wrap prevents the new driver from shorting out on anything, so be thorough when wrapping the new driver.
I hope this makes sense, and when I get mine and do this mod, I will post some pics, but it is on the slow boat to me…
Mountain Electronics has a FET driver HERE as well, that can come on a thinner PCB to make it easier to wrap, though the thicker one is less than a MM thicker…
Good luck!
Nice explanation, thanks!
Quick question: would you run into thermal problems by “wrapping” the driver (and not heat-sinking it)?
TIA, J&H
Not unless it was a current regulated driver (8 x7135 or similar using 7135 chips) as the current regulated drivers shed excess current as heat. The FET drivers run cooler, but still heat up. Should you do this, get good silicon self sealing tape or 3M electrical (hi temp) tape. the silicon self sealing is best, they call it “miracle tape” and it is pricey, but useful when you need it. I have found the small rolls on clearance shelves in WalMart for $3 or so…
The link below shows a floated driver, for a better picture of my explanation. The contact plate on the bottom would be the old driver and switch…
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10002000/1143101-1-2-aa-aaa-1-18650-1-mode-1a-led-flashlight
I would defer to someone with more knowledge than me, but that R082 resister looks tempting to start stacking R100’s
Thanks for the explanation ReManG. Also a big thank you to kyfishguy for helping a lot through PM’s!
You’re awesome guys!
Got a bit of reading to do now before I start ripping that driver apart…
And need to check if I’ve already ordered a 17mm FET or not!
Newbie question: What effect would that be likely to have? Increased amps on all modes? A bit? A lot?