+1 
Anyone ask Richard?
Soooo, all interesting ideas, but not what is needed right now. List? Someone?
I can put together the list. I’ll post something later today.
Thanks! You could include TA’s drawing of the 4040/5050 Q8 board, that the manufacturer will be Kerui, the possible selling price of 5/6 dollar plus a few dollars shipping (total likely well under 10), and that the distribution may be via Neal or Banggood, or else by BLF-members themselves. And refer to this thread of course.
Perhaps add that this board will not have screwholes and thus relies on being pressed down by the reflector/bezel which is expected to be sufficient.
One thing to keep in mind for purchasers of these MCPCB is isolating rings. None of my rings fit the smaller emitter hole opening of the Q8 when I converted over the the Luxeon V. Obviously, the V emitters were too small for the isolating rings as well.As a result, they don't fit will and look hodge podge.
I imagine XML's and SST40 emitters will probably have the same issue.
I cut out the openings in my original Q8’s reflector cups such that they fit around the SST-40 substrate, with some clearance. Didn’t use centering rings but did cover the base of the reflector with Kapton tape and cut the opening about 1mm smaller than the actual opening in the cup, this allows the substrate to fold the Kapton tape into the hole and be protected from a short.
As for looking hodge podge, if I click the switch into turbo while you’re looking at it you surely won’t notice any discrepencies. (not for a while anyway!) 
^
Ha! That would definitely do the job, but I doubt your mod looks hodge podge.
Just to make sure I follow correctly, the emitter holes in the reflector itself had to be widened some for the SST40?
Count me in for one
I think you cant ask producing centering ring until someone will test sst40 in Q8 with different custom rings to choose right height.
I simply adapted an existing centering ring to the Luxeon V using a reamer, every flashlight modder should have one, they cost just a couple of dollars at banggood/gearbest/fasttech.
Yes, I had to open the reflector aperture to clear the SST-40. I have the reflector sitting down onto the SinkPAD used for the SST-40. Beam profile is still a nice fat hot spot with very useful spill. 11,247 lumens out the front on 4 Sony VTC5A cells that have a copper button soldered on.
I would like this quad board to make it simpler to modify a light with the SST-40 so I can do one for my Son-in-Law much easier than the one I already built with individual SinkPADs.
^
OK. Good to know that. Thank you.
Would a Q8 ‘front end’ (minus battery pack, driver) run ok from something like this using a motorcycle battery? Regulator
I have two Q8’s (outstanding value) and am thinking of turning one into a driving light because the beam output and pattern is perfect.
Pattern is perfect? It’s terrible for the purpose, it will blind other drivers.
He said it’s for driving light. This is an auxiliary light used when no other cars are around. It is not to be confused with a regular headlight.
OK, thanks for explanation.
It’s for a dirt bike, offroad only and the beam’s perfect. After some thinking, I’d of course need to keep the driver.
Well I can report that it makes an awesome driving light for a bike (motorcycle) although it does have drawbacks. Firstly it gets HOT, too hot to touch for any more than half a second if you’re not moving. I tested it for temp by blowing on it when it got hot and even warm breath for a couple of seconds will drop the (body) temp by 10C+ @ 85C so it should be ok, although the over-temp control did cut in while I was stationary at one stage. That can also be overcome by not running it on full/turbo but that defeats the purpose to a degree.
Secondly, it’s rigged to only turn on when high beam is on, as per our laws here, so when you dip your lights for oncoming traffic and then put high beam back on the Q8 will stay off and you have to manually turn it back on. If you’re riding dirt like I do it’s not a problem though because you won’t need to dip. Maybe it can be programmed to come on whenever power is applied? If not then a different driver can possibly be found that’ll do what you need.
I’ll probably wire in a remote momentary on/off switch instead of using the existing one. As for output, the light is as good as my car high beam, with just the right amount of spread.