Q8 modding

Pics of the production driver have been posted - pretty sure its not the 85V version, and definitely brownout detection is enabled.

Ah well. I think my SWAG makes the point reasonably clear. PS: I might have made a few little edits to my post after you quoted it, sorry.

I’ll be bunging on at least 100 uF.

Edit, what level does brownout trigger, and what do you do when it does ? You won’t have much time left to do anything, if interrupted and only 100nF. Writing to flash ?

A Attiny85 is used in the Q8, no V variant. We had this discussion earlier, somebody told me there is not much of a difference. :wink:
I’m using my own firmware in this light, and BOD is enabled at 1.8V. Perhaps too low, but I expected the same mcu in this light as in the D4 where I saw a Attiny85v if I remember right. (D4 was the first test object with Attiny85 for my firmware.)
Only tested bump resistance with full cells, will do more tests when they are low.

You don’t do anything, on brownout detection the mcu goes to power off and comes back with reset when voltage is back.

No worries then. 85 vs 85V, heard the discussion that they are the same die, just binned at wafer probe, and in reality all good, just 85V can be sold at a premium (edit: to those who need to be able to show a worst-case analysis, for critical applications). Makes sense to me.

As documented in the source code header for NarsilM:

http://www.engbedded.com/cgi-bin/fcx.cgi?P_PREV=ATtiny85&P=ATtiny85&M_LOW_0x3F=0x22&M_HIGH_0x07=0x07&M_HIGH_0x20=0x00&B_SPIEN=P&B_SUT0=P&B_CKSEL3=P&B_CKSEL2=P&B_CKSEL0=P&V_LOW=E2&V_HIGH=DE&V_EXTENDED=FF&O_HEX=Apply+values

So brownout is set to 1.8V. There is a legit reason, at the time, for turning on brownout. Early on with a cheesy prototype, tightening the battery tube caused intermittent power hits, and it would lock up the MCU. Turning on brownout cleared that all up.

Okey dokey, where does LVP kick in on this ?

Let me know, and if you like I’ll re-run the numbers assuming Vbatt just above LVP, minimum voltage = brownout 1.8V, Schottky drop 0.3V

Summing up something different to the 0.45V I guesstimated.

But I think the end result won’t change much.

I should say, for others watching, that this is only a concern if wanting your torch to reliably stay on after some bumps and squeaks, not an issue for most.

What strobe frequency is used in the Q8? I found different values. 16 or 18 kHz

Hz, not kHz
Was mentioned in Q8 thread. It is so long that almost impossible to find. I think we need 100 pages thread limit.

Not Hz, definitely kHz.

Strobe? How do you imagine this? Your eye is hardly recognize anything over 30Hz.

…depending on what ‘strobe’ refers to :slight_smile:

Typo sorry
Hz I mean the police strobe. I ask myself if its quicker to hock a scop on the lamp instead of searching thru the Q8 thread :slight_smile:

I see now.

What frequency would you like ? (daft question I know).

Strobe

Dated link above corrected here:

https://www.epilepsy.org.uk/info/photosensitive-epilepsy/triggers

Quote: (edited)

“Flashing bicycle lights

Legally you must have a white light on the front of your bike and a red light on the back. There is a law that says these lights must not flash at a frequency above 4Hz. So they are very unlikely to trigger a seizure in someone with photosensitive epilepsy.

Strobe lights

You may come across strobe lights in places like night clubs, discos and theme parks.

In the UK, the flash rate of strobe lights is restricted to a maximum of four flashes a second by the Health and Safety Executive. This rate is considered to be safe for most people. However, some people with photosensitive epilepsy may still find strobe lights could trigger a seizure.”

We also have warnings on e.g. TV news that strobes/flashes may be in operation. It is taken seriously.

I really really don’t like the “flashy” modes and start feeling rather peculiar when trying them (not an epileptic). Some of the more aggressive “police strobes” are really horrid.

Even TK’s bike strobe is unpleasant.

I would like a none-aggressive flashy mode to use when say walking at night on dark country lanes using e.g. moon mode, and maybe need to “wake up” a motorist who may not have seen me, but am reluctant to point any torch with the typical aggressive blinkies at them. I wouldn’t like it done to me.

As for relying on a full-on “police strobe” to bewilder an aggressor, well, maybe it has some use, but thankfully it’s not something I feel any need for, even it it has some effectiveness. Perhaps I am naive.

Um!

ugly pictures of the galvanic corrosion from contact between steel and aluminum, here:

https://www.google.com/search?q=steel+aluminum+corrosion

You need some sort of electrolyte in the mix for that to happen. Unavoidable if exposed outdoors, particularly coastal environment, butgenerally a none-issue inside a (none-dive) torch, particularly when critical contact surfaces sealed with grease.

The worst I have heard of was mil. spec PCBs where operators had been swigging Coke (strong phosphoric acid) and contaminating the very carefully cleaned PCBS (tested by ionic conductivity of final rinse) with their dirty unwashed fingers before conformal coating. Coke trapped under con-coat = bad news. Re-education and banning of Coke from the premises apparently nipped that in the bud. Something maybe to bear in mind ourselves.

It's a compile time setting, but for the Q8 I set it to 18 Hz -- normal strobe. Police strobe is the 2nd strobe, and uses 2 frequencies, so I assume you want both frequencies.

  • 8 times of (20,40) then 8 times of (40,80)

For each pair, ON time is the 1st # in msecs, OFF time is the 2nd # in msecs. So.... You can figure it out

Ohhh - just fyi, to get 18 Hz, I use (14,41), total of 55 msecs so 1000/55 = 18.18 Hz

Dang, one more thing. That post linked was from last year, pre NarsilM I believe. I think from that post asking bout it, I updated the default strobe to 18 Hz.

I saw TK mention there’s enough slack on the driver wires to clip on the firmware changing device without desoldering the driver.

How about a Q8-firmware-change thread, for those of us who’ve never touched the stuff but are starting to want to?

(I’m still dreaming there will be drivers with little slots to take memory cards to update them, but it hasn’t happened yet)