Posting as a heads up that the Q8 will lose connection if dropped/bumped from the tailcap (seems obvious) but just wanted to make people aware of this now so they don’t freak out later.
Note: I am using button top 30Q batteries
After remembering past comments a few seconds of reaching yielded success. I have a variety of molle gear (woodland) and the first pouch I tried - a double m4 magazine pouch (Specialty Defense Systems style 4050) was an excellent fit especially after adjusting the elastic cord. I know I have other double M4 pouches with nsn and will post when I find them.
Neatral
In terms of sustained output they are about the same brightnes for long time without getting too hot
beamprofile is different, the MF01 is much more floody and does not reach as far
the MF01is heavier and more clunky (advantage Q8)
the UI of MF01 is rough but simple, annoys the heck out of me (Q8 advantage)
the low on MF01 is way higher then n the Q8 (advantage Q8)
MF01 doesn’t work with less then 4 cells, Q8 works with 1, 2, 3 or 4 (advantage Q8)
You can get 2 Q8 lights, work them with 2 cells each and have 10K lumens, so lumens per price is the same, but then you would have twie the sustained output, so llooking at price Q8 has advantage
The LEDs in the head under that big TIR and that nice bezel sure make the MF01 a nice looking thing.
Anodisation feels very good
Hmm. While I love the Q8… the MF01 can be used with 2 cells because it’s set up 2s 2p. Q8 also measures less throw stock, but my bypassed Q8 edges out a slight victory in throw being my now most throwy light.(I do not seek very throwy lights)
The UI on the Q8 really sells it. Makes lights twice as pricey feel lacking. Participating in the interest list was nothing short of an investment. My indicator light still going strong it’s been on for over a week straight.
I can not reproduce this with the stock inner springs removed and adding 20 AWG bypass wires inside the spring. I also can not reproduce it with using stiffer springs, like the Intl-outdoor "A" spring, no longer available at IOS -- would love to know where I can buy more -- they seem about perfect for the Q8 - significant bump in output over the stock springs as well. They are 11 mm tall, fairly thick and stiff wire (0.8 or 0.9 mm), gold plated.
Also not sure what cells you used, but a longer cell will make it harder to occur, like a full protected cell. I've seen up to 6 mm variations from cell to cell, from 65 mm to 71 mm. The flat top GA's are about the shortest that work in the Q8, and protected cells range anywhere from 68 to 71 mm.
The Samsung 30Q button tops from Banggood are relatively short - not sure we have a measurement on them.
Hard taps on a table on the tail and unable to reproduce the power loss/flicker. Just did this with two Q8's the other night - pretty sure I had 30Q BT's in them.
It was fairly easy to reproduce the power loss with the stock springs though -- this has been a concern of ours for quite a while. We hoped the new springs ThorFire went with in production would eliminate or reduce the likelihood of it. The new double springs were supposed to address this, but, things happen...
Aggravating but not a major issue - on bike usage perhaps, but again, I'd like to see far more informative posts on this, not just showing the failure scenario, but steps that can be taken to eliminate or reduce the effect - for example, how does 70 mm protected cells compare? Or even stating what the sizes of the cells used in the video? Etc.... Would adding magnets on the Batt- end of the cells help?
Sorry Teacher I have been a bit busy. Trying to finish the last touches on my new house construction. Stressful to get new one finished in time to satisfy the sale contract for my old home and still have time to move belongings. Wife won’t be happy with our furniture out in the yard, and sleeping in the car. On top of that the terrible twos have somehow infiltrated my formerly calm and sweet little boy into the perfect incarnation of destruction. It seems like a perfect storm of work to do my friend.