https://www.lightmalls.com/diy-battery-base-for-king-flashlight-1pc
It is not the same quality but it works
(cough)
(works great)
…… :+1: … So I reached out to chendongling@banggood.com and was told to contact someone else, linjie@banggood.com. However, that email address didn’t resolve (I got back failed delivery emails). @The Miller or anyone else, who else can I contact to see about getting a replacement switch assembly?
+1. I’d like to buy a spare
Man, idk. Maybe try MRsDNF (General info, communiction during China office hours). I just recently learned about the replacement switch.
You might try asking in the Q8 Modding thread as well.
Sorry I cant be much help with contacts as I had no contact with the manufacturer at all.
Ramping. Switch acted like contacts were dirty or maybe had some condensation making an intermittent contact/stutter.
But the problem cleared up after going through a few cycles of use.
I made a fatal mistake today.
I was discharging 4 18650GA batteries for storage with my Q8.
I took one out to measure the voltage (I could have used Q8 measurements…didn’t think about it).
Then put it back in reverse and screwed the light together.
Nothing happened. The back didn’t make contact with the driver ring. Phew!
Darn. Does anyone have any other suggestions for what to do?
Yup. It does some neat stuff, and the color modes are lots of fun. Tterev3 is impressively good with hardware and has made some really cool things.
I get the impression that we disagree on almost every aspect of UI design though… so I don’t tend to actually use it. I never know what it’s going to do when I turn it on, and I often have to pull out the manual to figure out how to get it into the mode I want. There’s no way to make it consistently start at moon, or to disable memory, and I had to look up how to access battcheck just now. Maybe I should make a diagram so I can remember how to use it.
BTW, it’s recommended to use a larger host or diffuser for multi-color lights. Putting all the LEDs in a shared reflector means all the color LEDs will have weird-shaped beams which don’t hit the same spot. It’s nice having that all in a tiny host, but I had to put a strong diffuser on the lens to make the beams converge.
FWIW, mode sets were implemented first and are at the core of Narsil… ramping was added on later by popular request. That’s why the blinkies, even in ramping mode, use the mode-set UI.
The hardware doesn’t have a calibrated sensor, so it will generally be off by a significant amount from one light to another.
If it helps, I added manual temperature calibration to a recent version of Anduril, and it works on the Q8. The user can tell the light what its temperature is now, for calibration purposes, and what temperature it should use as its heat limit.
This also adds full thermal regulation with smooth adjustments, plus a bunch of other extra features.
However, there is no way to calibrate the sensor on a stock Q8 without reflashing it.
It’s not so bad, is it? 
The Q8 is designed to make this relatively easy to do.
You could click the Link in my signature… Link won’t mind.
That’s good to know.
Tom E was telling me about the mode sets not being fully fleshed out, but it might have just been true for triple channel drivers.
I have 2 lights with Narsil v1.2 and NarsilM v1.0 on Texas Avenger 3 channel drivers. Mode sets can be kinda funky and unreliable.
I guess even on a 2 channel driver like the Q8, mode sets still has a few bugs in it.
The bugs are mostly just a side effect of complexity. Narsil’s code has a lot of parts which interact, and it’s not always obvious which parts can affect which other parts. That makes changes difficult and risky.
About the 3-channel tables, it’s mostly the PWM values which haven’t been fine-tuned. The actual code is no more or less buggy, as far as I’m aware.
With NarsilM v1.0 mode set order #8, 10/25/50 the memory acts flaky. Sometimes it remembers the last mode, sometimes it doesn’t. Maybe it works fine in 2 channel drivers like the Q8?
It’s no big deal to me as I prefer ramping, anyway.
Toykeeper,
No. In fact, you're right. I love to tinker too much, and you may have made a monster out of me (like you said)
Thank you.
I just got my BLF Q8 and got this issue…
The light switches on automatically when I screw the battery part into the led part.
Is it in some kind of lock mode….?
How to reset to factory settings?
Thank you,
Tomi
4 fast clicks is lock/unlock.
Factory reset is here.
Thank you
Still got the issue Blf q8 - YouTube
Cant even turn the light off with clicks, only if removing battery part
Are all four of the emitters lighting up?
Does it look like it’s on Turbo?
If so, the negative lead from the mcpcb might be touching ground.
Maybe the solder on the negative lead on the mcpcb is too tall and touching the reflector or maybe the edge of the driver is shorting out.
I would take it apart and look at the pieces. If there is nothing that looks wrong, reassemble it and it might start to work normally.
If the light turns on when the battery tube is screwed on, and the button does nothing, it’s probably a physical issue inside the light… shorted power or a shorted switch.
Fortunately, the Q8 is easy to open up to take a look.