Hmm $5,20 is a big chunck of $40 
And if he does not want to work with RMM I fear we do not stand a chance. 12,50+% is just too big of a piece of the pie for somebody not anxious to step in, so sorry, but thanks for clarification!
It seems like we are treating the $40 price (including shipping) as a hard ceiling. Thank you for this. Iām sure we all appreciate efforts to make this a truly budget, premium light.
Having said that, I would like to add my own personal preferenceā¦
If a slight price increase would translate into significant and demonstrable improvements that could not later easily be done through modding, I would gladly pay it.
So for example, I can do spring bypasses myself, but I cannot remachine the light for better heatsinking.
Therefore, if an additional $8- $12 in material or production costs would produce a light that has noticeably better safety, or heatsinking, or efficiency, or ??, then please do it.
As a reminder, this is just my own personal opinion.
+1 .
Yes I get that
A lens can be changed by almost anybody so IMHO that does not justify 12,5+% of the price.
_to be honest I have a set ceiling of $44 (like the number and gives 10% play room) but for now we are set at $40 and strong arguments must be given for a slight raise 
I hope my dialogue did not put anyone of the driver. I have all sorts of problems working out how they work. I had a mate over to work out how to program a Taskled driver, not to mention a few other lights I have that I dont even try to work out even more.
The ramping mode I would guess 95% of users will use as it just works perfectly right out of the box.
Tom E and others that helped him deserve a big thanks for the effort put in and honestly I dont think he could of made it any simpler with all the different options he has packed into this driver and made it all work without a hitch.
Thanks mate. Personally Iād rate this as the most impressive piece of engineering for 2016 on BLF. :+1:
Wow, Thanx! Actually been working on a couple more features today:
- blinkout out the firmware rev #, maybe not so important for the BLF Q8, but would sure help keep'n track of what light has which, and getting into support issues
- trying for strobe mode access from ramping: dbl-click to max level, then dbl-click again to strobe. Or if already at max level, then simple dbl-click to strobe
Think'n ramping will be the most commonly used, so want everything accessible. Just hope it doesn't clutter things up in the UI - I'm trying to avoid that.
The configuration settings UI is the most trouble-some, because there's no way to do it without a document listing the settings. I would really prefer the ability to do this on a cell phone, tablet, or PC, then download or direct link the light, but, we are not quite there yet to do it economically and easily.
Narsil is up to about 80% used memory for the program, only 20% available for more additions.
Ohh - this is post #2048, which is exactly 2K in computer terms, or 2 raised to the 11th power 
. I only got into computer science because I really liked math.
Nice Tom!
I bet the first real easy to setup flashlight (via for example an app and smartphone screen) will be a future BLF project.
Ha that post count remonds me:
Iāam feeling like a flashlight firmware stalker
Main words were āin this lightā. Your test stand is far away from SRK host.
Do not forget that thermal trasfer depends on temperature difference. If you have test stand with great heat capacity and just burning leds for few minutes you will be able to see profit in dtp vs non-dtp.
While if you have 40+ watts in SRK host after 15-20 minutes you will get 80 deg.C host temperature and 90 deg.C LEDs temperature and it will be very hard to see any difference in such conditions.
As most short-sightedness people I hate reflectors and like changing them to TIRs if it is possible.
Also I hate all this FET-drivered lights that are not available to gave constant output Hi/Mid-Hi level for long time. Such big light should have enought space to fit buck or boost driver.
I certainly hope nobody is going to led it fet ā¦ ehm let it get 80Ā°C.
Even with the now proposed thicker shelf there is a cavity that leaves room for modding in different drivers.
It is not very difficult to get it even hotter with tripod mount.
Put me down for one.
Just one more question - what is pcb size and pcb place (depth) in the shelf?
Yes, and a long one at that. It requires driver/hardware changes to enable communication, firmware changes and writing the smartphone/web app. A fun project but not something that can be done in a few evenings.
Well true, but a possibility is to use a LED to input light with minimal hardware. It's been done before - you can buy flashlights today like this: http://www.reflexflashlights.com/. Dunno how far the patent goes though, and their products and website are somewhat dated and pricey, but the technology is interesting and simple, none the less.
A graphical UI to configure something like the DrJones H17F would be a dreamā¦
SinkPad makes a 10mm XM-L DTP MCPCB. It will work for XHP-50 in 6V configuration. Mountain Electronics sells XHP-50 already mounted on the 10mm SinkPads.
Yeah I know they do, but just canāt bring myself to actually buy them as that means I am committed to wiring them all up. a 4-5x skyray is fun to wire up, an 8x should be a party lol.
Not to mention that all said and done this light would be well over $100 to build and I am just having a real hard time justifying that kind of money on a light that I know will get too hot to hold in a matter of seconds. I have all the parts except the MCPCBās a this point, I keep considering just tossing the XHP50ās on the stock MCPCB and seeing what it looks like. I figure they will work fine for the short bursts this light could actually be used but then I have no idea how many amps they would be pulling.
Wow this thread seems to have exploded since I was last on BLFā¦. I assume this is going ahead then?
If you do go ahead, plan it out carefully. 10's don't work well with LED alignment pieces, or having the wire pads so close in to the LED - ohh forgot though, you can 3D print your own, so may have more options. The 14's would probably do - I'd measure it out though before buying. I found with the 16X head lights (big head diam), I could actually use 16's for most, 14's maybe for the outer ones. Buying/wiring 16 XHP-50's is also a tuff decision...
I highly doubt 14ās would work but I will check. I know that 16ās wonāt even close to fit with a 5x that has them a lot further apart, course maybe if I put a 10mm in the center the outside ones could be 14mm but I still kinda doubt it.
Centering rings should not be that bad, might take some trial and error but the nice thing about these rings is it takes longer for the printer to warm up then it does for it to print it. So knocking out a few prototypes is not hard.
Could probably make one with flat sides at the base to clear the wires and a round ring above to center it. Should be able to press fit onto the LED and into the reflector if I get the tolerances right.
Has anyone ever tried an XHP50 on an aluminum MCPCB? I know that is what they are binned on. So I can guess that like other LEDās performance would not be drastically improved with a DTP star until you go past the binned current.
Like the 8x XM-L2 I built, it preforms quite nice and while DTP stars would help I am sure, since each LED only gets a tad over 3 amps, they do not seem to drop brightness much more then the other skyrays I have built with DTP stars.
To run on aluminum MCPCB's, it's all about heat, so if you kept the amps down, heat stays down, should be ok. Just a matter what amps is ok, what amps is too much, etc. I would never consider XHP-50's on aluminum, so can't say. Even an XM-L2 at 2 amps benefits from copper DTP - I've measured the difference in output lumens.