It does not appear that the dual footprint will make it into the proudction light at this point sadly. So an XHP50 mod is possible but it will require more effort then most will want to put into it.
The Texas Avenger drivers are released now with drivers able to drive XHP50 and XHP35 LED’s. The stock driver will only be able to be used with 3V LED’s.
Looking at the LED board they have, if they just exposed four pads on the two traces running between LED's on the three connected sides of the square , so 12 pads total, that would be all that's needed to make it modable. You could cut the traces between the pads and then wire them.
And yes I was referring to the texas Buck, but also maybe my cheap off the shelf buck. It's only rated to 10A but I've seen it put out 20 for a second. The wiring for xpl would be 4s battery and 2S LED. For xhp35, it would just be all 4S. No point doing 4S xp-l though. You could only do worse than direct drive then. You need some headroom to provide voltage to the LED's.
Actually good question - dunno, don't think I've seen any SRK's soup can lights with OP, accept if they use the big 6+V LED's. The beam patterns of the SMO's can look a bit ugly on a white wall, but I've found them much better outdoors. I'm sure it works the same as single reflectors - OP's probably don't throw as far.
Belt holder? Well it could work, but no - no margin to include one. I posted stuff early bout Molle 2 cartridge size pouch's working really well for this size light, but can be pricey, and can be hard to find - got mine on eBay.
Ok thanks. Actually would prefer a little more throw but just wondered why I never saw it. I know thrunite lights close to this size come with a nylon holster wonder if one of them would work… Thanks for your response.
The EagleTac's are pretty old and can't seem to charge them up to 4.20V
The KeepPower's aren't much newer, but have always tested better with lower resistance than the Eagletac's. At the time, the KeepPower's were the best protected cells around
The ramping UI is the one I use, because it has been a favorite for a long time… but Narsil does it better than mine. And the manual mostly isn’t needed, since the ramping UI makes it easy to get to any level and the battery check.
Anyway, I’m looking forward to a commercial light with PD68’s driver and Tom E’s firmware. If it gets anywhere near spec, it’ll definitely be one of the nicest lights around.
In the mail, on the way, but USPS is giving them the scenic tour of Long Island - happens a lot lately... I'll add them to the list when I get them and charge them up.
Tom E, please, disclose your secret
What solder or flux (or acid) do you use to put solder on the battery tops? So that the solder wets (if I put it correctly) the nickel-plated tops, and doesn’t roll up in balls.