I’ve been using Imgbb
Its what just about everyone on reddit uses.
For GB at $40 shipped, great torch indeed.
What is the battery configuration? 2s/2p?
Still tryin to get the hang of the flashie, blinkie modes….you got to be pretty quick on the button & know exactly where to land/stop. Although I rarely use them, it would be nice to get to bike flasher more direct.
I already had ramping, so was use to that, but y’all are gonna love it. Worth quite a bit more than $40, even if it didn’t have the ramping. Icing on the cake.
To put it in perspective, one could buy 2 Q8’s stuffed with batteries or 3 Q8’s w/o batteries for less $$$ than one Noctigon Meteor w/o batteries, and you get Narsil to boot.
4p…all button tops up.
It’s like the last year and a half talking about this light never happened. :person_facepalming:
One look shows you all positives touch the upper ring so that means all parallel. 4P.
Sorry if I’m snippy. My patience is wearing thin.
You don’t have to know where to stop because you can go forward and backwards through the 5 strobe modes. Just don’t stop on the first strobe. Try to stop on the other 4. Then you can do a press and hold to go back one level then forward again if you want.
Don’t know if it is common on other lights in the bike flash mode to be able to set the brightness level (during non flash) - but that seems very cool. Cant tell if that applies on fast strobes.
I might be wrong about being able to set the constant brightness in bike strobe as I don’t ever use any of the blinkies.
It seemed like I could set it in mode sets, but I just tried both my lights which are in ramping mode and the constant level was not what I set it to. I tried a setting close to moonlight and one close to full power and it seems to go to a generic 30% level. Kind of odd.
Maybe someone with a Q8 can check this or maybe Tom E can say for sure.
Oh, think you’re right. I only tried it in ramping, so far. I think I just happened to set the level close to the default.
If you need high drain 18650s in Aus, and you need them quickly, go here:
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Got my 2 Q8’s this afternoon and went for a night walk with the family already. Funny thing was I handed it to my wife and said “hold the button to ramp up” so she held it until it ramped, then went into UI config, then pressed the button randomly and set it in mode set. I had no clue how to get it back into ramping mode haha. After reading the instructions several times i figured it out: once you get into UI config mode, two quick flashes means it’s in config, followed flashes indicating which menu item your at. From reading the manual, or wasn’t apparent that the 2 quick flashes happen for every menu item (2 quick then 1 for menu 1, 2 quick then 2 for menu 2, etc).
Sorry Tom for not updating the Narsil post
Will try tondo it right in today and post Jason’s videos there as well.
Wow all this talk about the plastic rings.
They didn’t do anything and needed glue, why anybody would want them is beyond me, but I bet everybody has a trashcan with plastic packagings in it, cut to size and glue in and tadaa 
Safety, yes putting in a cell the wrong way that had a torn wrapper in a Q8 that has good bypassed springs is an issue. Just like it would be an issue in a Meteor M43, Supfire M6, any SRK, Uniquefire 1404, Courui D01, well any P light. Just treat cells with respect and common sense, rewrap or toss but under normal use a wrapping should not be torn. Don’t spring bypass and the springs will melt before danger happens in case of bad behavior 
Nice pics, keep m coming
Sorry to say that I might have the first defective “advanced feature” unit… The indicator light flashes erratically. Here’s a video of it: Advanced Indicator Light Feature - YouTube
are there still codes for this?
Assuming there is a problem and not fixable in the settings, there is always the option to turn it off. Worst case scenario is rewire the indicator light to constant positive. That works well and I’ve got 2 lights like that. Then they basically tell you when power is connected or not. That’s my preference.
PM send
Thanks for the clear video.
Did I see it flash when on as well? YES at 0.25.
There must be a wire not connected properly 
LEts see what the smart people have to say what could be causing this.
Can you maybe have look at the wire connection points on both driver and switch PCB (carefull getting the switch holding ring out, if you scratch the black, best thing to do is to remove all the black, the then metal colored ring around the switch looks good in combination with the bezel but I can imagine you don’t want to do it. so maybe use rubber bands between the tool and ring to protect it.
Unless the talked about “random lightning strobe” was implemented to only the button light, I don’t think this is a settings issue. Also, I want the indicator light. This is the first light I’ve owned that has an illuminated clicky, so I was kinda disappointed it didn’t work right. I am fully capable of re-wiring it, or even re-flashing the mcu, but I just wanted to report what I have.
The indicator light stays off while it is locked into a mode, it does blink after ramp up/down to indicate 7135/FET.
Also, it does blink out battery check with the main LEDs.
I don’t think this switch is technically called a clicky. Clickies are the mechanical switches you see in tail caps mostly. This switch is an electronic switch or E-switch.
I know what you mean about the illuminated switch being useful. I use them just so I know if power is on or off, plus to find the switch in the dark. Let’s see if anyone has any ideas to fix it.
If all else fails, you can unsolder the led wire (for the switch) from the “indicator pad” and attach it to the “power on” pad or a constant power source. It’s easy to do. You could also do custom colors if you want. LOL. We’ll save that for later, though.