Ohhhh :person_facepalming: Thank You I just skimmed through, I’m leaving it in ramping mode, didn’t pay too much attention to anything else besides lock out mode and battery check :innocent:
Already took both out to a dark field and lit it up. Shining down into a valley too. No photos, my phone camera wouldn’t do the Q8s justice.
Previously described problem with the indicator is exactly what happened with my light. The indicator worked for a brief while, started flickering, now it never comes on.
It is in the second post of the thread, right after the mile long list of people who are on the list to buy. Not the best place, but not too hard to get to.
Also, tore apart my Q8 with intermittent switch light on the workbench. The driver has power at the pads leading out to the switch board, but no LED light on the switch. It’s starting to look like a faulty switch board, but I’ll have to do some more digging to see.
On an unrelated note, I finally got my oscilloscope running again. Here is a trace of the pwm on the main LED:
Clicked on the order tracking for my light and it says the order number and email doesn’t match. I’m getting the order number off the email they sent me. If I just open my Bangood account it shows my last order several years ago and nothing else. The money came out of my paypal account with the same email. Anyone else have this issue?
If the screws were “tightly threaded through the PCB, that suggests to me that the PCB holes may still be sized to clear M2.5 screws.
So if M3 screws have been substituted without changing the drilling spec. for the PCBs, they can only be fitted by self-tapping their way into the PCB.
A correctly sized PCB hole should always clear the thread of the screw. 3mm hole for M3 screw.
Considering it’s early days that’s a worrying number of failed switch lights that have occurred!
Might cancel my backordered light if this continues. Really can not be bothered with a fight with BG to get things sorted.
Has this been raised with TF?