Issue(s) are being collected
when ALL 500 are in we can tell what the issues are and then how to find a solution for those affected.
I will not go deeper into it now, it is not constructive for theoretical and I do NOT want to debate with hundreds of people what they think is best and should be done, we are on top of things and this should suffice so please do not force me to put time into explaining why we want to know all the issues before getting to a solution, sure a lot will say it is not the proper way to go, fine cool, keep it to yourself or PM me if you feel like this AND have reported an issue!
Oh talking about time, I have prepared an answer so people who think it is cool to email Thorfire and/or Banggood receive a nice reply pointing them to me. You could just have respect for the clear text in the OP stating we are the ones to ask things to and the info is in the topic (important for all means topic title change with date now), Wasting time (person A forwarding mail to person B, person B forwarding to me, me reply to B, B forward to A) of all involved and people not involved seems like a sign of utter disrespect for others only to fill the need of a personal reaction with the same information that has been posted here.
Time is the only universal currency, but alas nobody gets change.
Issues with switch leds not working all seem to pop up within a day or two. Please report on it.
Issues with not turning off are too vague to be put in the OP now. Please report on it further, I will start clicking away on my proto to see if I can find some patern.
And come on, if you don’t have an issue do not ask what the solution is IF your light maybe gets an issue, let’s keep posting about issues to people HAVING them shall we?
Fairly easy, HAVE an issue, please report the greater the detail the better.
When WE HAVE news we post, when we have questions about issues we post
If you DON’T have an issue, cool, just leave posting about both issue and solution to others
Thanks
I am somewhat amused reading the recent posts.
Some people who wanted multiple lights only ordered one from the first 500 to give others a chance at getting one. (Thank you to those people)
Some who wanted only one light waited to make sure there were no issues with the first batch… smart
Then there are people that ordered multiple lights all at once…
Now some people that ordered all their lights all at once are getting upset about a fix / solution that has not even been announced yet.
I’m sure there will be a solution for everyone but people getting worked up about their multiple lights that are currently working that might fail being different to the ones others will receive in the future is kind of annoying.
The team and manufacturer is surely doing all they can.
This project has been going on for a long time, it’s not finished yet.
How about those people that are holding their lights now sit back patiently and wait for a solution, just as those of us who do not have lights have to do.
I am not getting “worked” up or upset I am simply asking a question.
I am simply stating that as Thorfire are aware of a switch problem with the first batch of 500 to the extent that they are fitting a different switch to the remaining 1100 or so lights that have already been paid for that obviously something needs to be done about those initial 500 sold lights.
I am hopeful that something indeed will be done which is why I asked the initial question of The Miller.
Whether I bought multiple lights from the first batch, second batch, third batch, 1 light from each batch etc makes no difference.
All the lights should be the same shouldn”t they ?
I can assure you that I do not need to look for a good “psychologist” & TBH don”t find your post very amusing.
I asked The Miller if there was any solution in the offing for those that purchased from the first batch of 500.
I wish I hadn”t bothered now
I was commenting on what Zulumoose said “When my light comes I will be expecting the switch to start causing issues, it will always be on my mind even if it never happens”.
I’m not sure why you thought you were the one I was talking about.
Well here is a solid piece of advice for those worried about future failing or thinking they deserve a solution for a non existent issue if others have gotten one to fix an issue they actually encountered.
Go online, google your car model and some words like “problem”.
Read forums until you have found somebody who got a warranty repair for an issue.
Then print that out and contact your car manufacturer and apply the logic that they clearly know about an issue and have fixed it so you want your functioning part replaced for free because of your piece of mind. A car is so much more important and failure can be really dangerous for you and others.
While you have found that place with another owner having had an issue, try finding a lot of owners so you all can go to the manufacturer together and demand a free replacement.
Please let us know how it is going and leave the Q8 issues that are so much less important then car issues with potential deadly consequences to us
Just think of all the scenarios, somebody had an button replaced in his car. Manufacturer knows it was faulty, the warranty replacement proves it. Your button fails six months from now, while driving, you look at it to see what is wrong, you don’t see that baby moose run on the road, you hit the moose, it bounces off smashes into an upcoming truck loaded with 20.000KG of liquid gas, it crashes into a pillar of the railway bridge you just passed, it explodes, a commuter train with 500 people on board derails, the last cart goes off track and completely levels a school.
Dang man! Do something while you still can!
Why bother with a few SMD LEDs if you can save hundreds of people applying the same logic you want to waste on a flashlight?
Godspeed!
(And yeah yeah rant, but come on, got to do something to smile about somethings sometimes )
I have just tested both of mine out in my light tube.
One with fully charged BT 30Q”s gave 5286 lm at start up & 4816 at 30 seconds.
The other with fully charged BT protected Panny B”s gave 4740 at start up & 4228 at 30 seconds.
During the 30 second run on the Panny B powered light the indicatot switch came on & started flashing & kept flashing for the remaining 20 seconds or so gradually getting dimmer.
I turned the light off once out of the light tube then back on & ramped up to max for about a minute & the switch light is now performing properly again ie off when the light is on.
I think that that is correct.
Both lights are in ramping mode.
One of my lights did have a little black dirt on the contact ring so I cleaned the rings on both (just wiped them clean with a tissue & TBH there was nothing on the other contact ring).
Other than that all I have done to either is to lube the tube & tail cap threads as there was just a tiny trace of some sort of thin black/dirty oil on the threads which looked to me like it could have been left from the thread cutting process.
TM my previous car was recalled 3 times & had new parts fitted even though my car exhibited no problems what so ever but the manufacturer was aware of a problem with “some” cars of my model.
Likewise the car before that was recalled & had a part replaced even though my car showed no problems.
The cars were Vauxhall (Opel in Europe) & Mitsubishi.
With known problems car makers recall a whole model range/ year here in the UK perhaps in Europe it is different ?
If you read my post above is the behaviour I have described with one of my lights a flaky switch or is the switch supposed to that ?
I don”t know as I don”t fully understand the UI but thought that when “on” the indicator should be off ?
Both lights are sat on the table at the side of me now turned off with switches illuminated as they should be.
I am a happy owner of Q8”s but an owner who thinks that if there is a known switch problem that new switches should be provided & not just for those that have not received their lights yet
Maybe I am over cautious after being involved with the Cometa fiasco where I bought 2 lights.
One damaged & DOA & one damaged, worked for a second or 2 then dead.
Neither light was as specc”d/ advertised.
After months of arguing with BG one was replaced which arrived damaged & stuck in turbo only.
I ended up buying parts & getting one light working properly myself.
Months & months after purchase BG eventually refunded me for the 2 lights which have remained as paperweights ever since.
I never understood why people so badly desire lighted switches which drain the batteries faster. In my own momentary firmware I don’t use the switch LEDs at all. It’s the most unimportant part of a flashlight.
I guess the team would now be very happy if Thorfire hadn’t added this unrequested feature …
Bella, in the US, Federal motor vehicle safety standards set minimum performance requirements for those parts of the vehicle that most affect its safe operation (brakes, tires) or that protect drivers and passengers from death or serious injury in the event of a crash (air bags, safety belts).
So I don’t think a vehicle recall is a good analogy in this situation.
If a bad Q8 switch led to an electrical fire, then yeah, they should all be fixed or replaced regardless of whether they currently exhibit an issue. But right now, it’s just a switch button light. Not that big a deal. Not a safety issue. It doesn’t even effect the operation of the light.
There are a couple of reasons I added lighted switches to my lights.
One, it tells me if power is connected or if it’s mechanically locked out.
Two, it helps me find the light in the dark.
Three, it helps me find the on button in the dark.
Excerpt from the Advanced Notes and Usage Guide on the Q8 showing the power draw of the switch LED's:
Parasitic Drain
Parasitic drain is the draw of amps (power) when the flashlight is off and the processor goes into a deep sleep mode, cutting as much power consuming features as it can, but still able to wake up when the button is pressed. Here’s the measured numbers on full or near full cells, after being off for more than 6 seconds:
with switch LED on: 135 µA
with switch LED off: 22 µA
In switch Lock-Out mode, the switch LED is off. There's also a quick trick method to turn off the switch LED when the light is OFF:
from OFF, press&hold until moon mode comes on (or hold longer)
then quickly release the switch, and quickly click to turn the light OFF
the switch LED should be off now even with the main LED off
To put it in perspective:
22 µA takes 5 years to drain 1,000 mAh, so with 4 3,000 mAh cells, it could last over 60 years, in theory of course
135 µA with the switch LED on takes 10 months to drain 1,000 mAh, with 4 3,000 mAh cells, it could last over 10 years
When the light is first turned off, it continues running the processor for 6 seconds, then drops into it’s low drain, deep sleep state. The amount of amps is somewhat dependent on the cells, so partially depleted cells, and cells with higher resistance will have a lower parasitic drain.
Is just my personal opinion, don’t want to offend anybody.
By the way: it seems the switch LEDs don’t run reliably with the mentioned current of 135 µA, so I assume we will see a higher current in future.
Comets
1 different host then promised
2 less quality lens then promised
3 possible dead short disc under lens
4 possible short leading to only run in direct drive disc under lens
5 possible dead short wires through ledstar if it cut one
6 possible short leading to only run in direct drive wires through led star.
7 possible cut wires so no light at all.
8 possible dead short of cell
9 and 10 vanishing organiser (yeah counts double in my opinion.
11 no reviews other then one pre production sample while review of respected member was promised.
12 camera settings making it look brighter then it was
13 thinner wires used then promised
Q8
A hand full of switch assembly issues.
So…
6 possible issue severely hindering use, making it impossible to use and or are dangerous
Compared to Q8, none
So…
Organiser vanishes vs active team on top if things so no one needs yo go through customer support.
So…
Given less then promised, poor quality instead of what was promised, selling dangerous light versus a bonus feature not working on a hand full of lights.
So…
One “review” with exaggerated pictures versus 7 reviews and one outside team review.
Yes cars can get recalled but a few minor things are no reason for recall, it is probably very hard to find a car model where not 10 were having some warranty repairs done. It will be easy to find thousands of car models that have had 10 warranty repairs done without all being called back.
Jason are you trying to say that if you bought a new item & one feature didn”t work then that that would be acceptable ?
Yes a car anology is a bad example as they are much dearer & potentially dangerous, although one of my recalls was for a defective interior light, although mine worked fine.
The car would have been fine even if the interior light did not work & I can”t see that that would have been dangerous in any way but I received a letter from the maker stating that on the next warranty service it would replaced or I could book the car in then for the replacement.
I am just saying that if 1500 plus people buy the same thing for the same price then surely the things should all be the same & work the same ?
I don”t understand the reasoning that that would not be the case.
One of my switches has already played up, should I just accept that when I know that others are having different switches fitted because of that ?
It doesn”t exactly fill me with confidence that my switch is not going to totally fail nor that I won”t have problems with my other Q8”s switch does it ?
I know that the light will still work without the illuminated switch but why should anyone have a light with a flaky or non working switch when others don”t ?
If everybody was in the same boat fair enough, but they are not.
BTW I am not causing a fuss over this.
I have not contacted TF or BG but have posted my concerns/problems here as The Miller has asked.
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