Hard taps on a table on the tail and unable to reproduce the power loss/flicker. Just did this with two Q8's the other night - pretty sure I had 30Q BT's in them.
It was fairly easy to reproduce the power loss with the stock springs though -- this has been a concern of ours for quite a while. We hoped the new springs ThorFire went with in production would eliminate or reduce the likelihood of it. The new double springs were supposed to address this, but, things happen...
Aggravating but not a major issue - on bike usage perhaps, but again, I'd like to see far more informative posts on this, not just showing the failure scenario, but steps that can be taken to eliminate or reduce the effect - for example, how does 70 mm protected cells compare? Or even stating what the sizes of the cells used in the video? Etc.... Would adding magnets on the Batt- end of the cells help?
Sorry Teacher I have been a bit busy. Trying to finish the last touches on my new house construction. Stressful to get new one finished in time to satisfy the sale contract for my old home and still have time to move belongings. Wife won’t be happy with our furniture out in the yard, and sleeping in the car. On top of that the terrible twos have somehow infiltrated my formerly calm and sweet little boy into the perfect incarnation of destruction. It seems like a perfect storm of work to do my friend.
Ok, was not sure. I currently have only 2 lights here, one stock and one with bypasses, both with stock springs. Have this power disconnect with both lights, and with both long and short cells. I’m sure better springs help, but I believe the cap is still the more robust and cheaper fix. And easier to apply, at least for the electronic guys …
You have a reflector versus a TIR lens. The reflector is going to give you a tighter hotspot with a much brighter spill lighting. The MF 01 has a larger hotspot but it’s spill lighting is very weak. I personally prefer reflector based lights because I’m usually walking outside at night when I’m using them so the brighter spill lighting really helps to illuminate everything off to the left and the right as well as on the ground in front of me. I don’t get that with TIR lens lights, instead I have to wave them around a lot just to see everything around me.
Tom, as you know, I am of the same view as Flashy Mike on this, the root cause of the Q8 shutting down when a bump of sufficient magnitude momentarily disconnects the cells is because the MCU very soon loses all power (possibly even in as little as a few 10s of microseconds, but my analysis took no account of the other capacitor in the circuit, the voltage level at which the main LEDS stop drawing current, etc. etc.), then re-boots, leaving the torch turned off.
I have enquired behind the scenes for more accurate information about the MCU current drain, to improve the analysis, but to-date none has been forthcoming.
I think that Flashy Mikes addition of e.g. 100 uF holdup to the MCU is the correct engineering solution, and something that could easily be done by someone wishing to eliminate this problem.
I also recognise that strengthening the springs will also improve, but possibly not completely eliminate it.
In the Q8, as supplied, it appears to be consistently reproducible. Improving or eliminating it, for those who consider it to be of concern, e.g. those who rely on their torches in outdoor use, requires modification, either to springs, or electronics.
For many, perhaps most, it will not be a concern. For those of us for whom it very much does matter, modification can fix it, and the modding thread is the best place to discuss that.
I should mention that this is not a unique issue, I have other SRKs which do exactly the same thing, it is a consequence of the cells having springs only at one end, as in many other torch designs. The positive connection requires solid contact between solid metal surfaces, so will inevitably be interrupted by a sufficient shock at the tail, as with any other torch with only one spring. Ensuring the electronics carry on operating through this, is best addressed in the circuit design.
I would please suggest that further discussion of it be carried on in the modding thread.
Consider it a “feature” of the Q8 in unmodified condition.
Do you have any kind of source for that information? There’s no mention of CRI on the listing so I expect them to be the regular 80 CRI kind for more lumens. Of course, the Q8 was measured at 70 CRI so it’s still a point in favor of the MF01.
Just received my light.
I’m not very active anymore here and also not as flashoholic as I used to be, but very impressed with the light.
Very nice light, and well job team! Glad I bought one.
I wonder if we might could use some simple nickname for the second batch of lights (Q8* maybe?) so when they start coming in and being discussed we will know the difference. This assumes there is some fairly obvious visual difference (like screw heads).
Well just looked at mine in more detail
Screws look good, switch LEDs are even and working.
Their shouldn’t be a lot to tell this apart from the second that is in transit.
