Not too long ago, I had picked up an XML bike light on sale from DX (post #301 here), so when another one (SSC P7 version this time) went on liquidation from the US warehouse for $22, I knew it would be one I’d be modding.
A test between the XML and P7 versions gave similar output and beam pattern (mostly throw). I don’t care for a throwy beam in a bike light, so the stock lens from the XML version was replaced with this wide angle lens which did a great job at spreading the beam, making it more bike worthy.
As for the P7, a quad XPG build wired according to the "poor man's multi-lux setup" (below) would be a perfect match for the 2s2p 8.4V battery pack. I have done a similar build here in a Mag 2C host and was very happy with the tint and flood/throw beam pattern. For optics, I used Tina-D that were removed from the holders. This allowed 4 to fit inside the 35mm head.
First, here is the tear down of the stock P7 bike light. Only the head, switch boot cover, mounting bracket, heat sink, and lens would be reused.
I needed to raise the emitters closer to the lens, so I beefed up the heat sink with some additional pieces of aluminum as shown below. Not having a lathe meant having to do this the hard way - piece by piece! Pieces were secured with thermal adhesive and JB weld.
Shown below are the additional parts used.
- 4 x XPG 5000K emitters reflowed onto ground down 16mm boards
- 2.8A driver set to High-Low
- 4 x XPG optics with holders removed
- Clicky switch
Emitters wired 2s2p.
Driver and switch wired. I also wrapped the heat sink with copper tape for a snug fit into the head.
Fully assembly
Low and High (taken outdoors in daylight). My camera does not have manual settings, but you get the idea.
I was going to do some comparison shots, but discovered an annoying flickering in the light on both low and high modes. I tested a different battery pack and still have the same problem. I will also try a good pair of 18650 or 26650 cells to make sure the battery packs are not the issue. I don’t imagine they would be, but this is drawing more current (~2.8A) than the stock driver. Many have commented on how unreliable these particular battery packs can be.
If that does not solve the problem, it may be a short or bad solder joint which would unfortunately require a tear down for inspection.