I´ve received a “XIAOZHI CREE XM-L T6 LED” ( Link ) and I got some questions about it.
- it makes a clearly hearable beeping sound. Not only on one specific mode but randomly on any. I can´t “recreate” it. it just comes and goes
I´ve tested it with different batteries ad it beeps with all of them.
- I don´t understand the sequence of the different modes. I´m in group I (5>15>>100%) and it does NOT switch from 5 to 15 to 100.
It´s more like 100, 15, 15, 5, 5, 100……100,100, 15, 5……100, 100, 15, 15, 5,5. There is NO continuing sequence. It does what it wants…
- Shouldn´t 100, 15 and 5 differ clearly from each other? I need to swith a couple of tmes to see a difference between high and mid and I am never sure if it´s really high or mid.
- Mine cannot tail stand. The rubber switch has some play before it hits the actual light´s swith. Even if I´d press the green rubebr part to the switch, it could NOT stand on the tail.
Is that normal?
- compared to the UF-2100 is veeeeery blue-ish. Not really brighter or darker, but blue.
(because of the stated problems, I think the UF-2100 is way better)
With regards to the modes, your clicking too fast for the driver… The ringing noise, not noticed that in mine but it suggests a bad earth, strip clean and lube.
The bluish tint is down to emitter choice, I assume you went cool white, I opted for the nw t6 3c. I’m very happy with both the tint and beam profile.
I ordered both, one CW and one NW. The tint on my particular 3C is awesome, better than the 3C’s from my BLF Minis. Anyways, one light had really loud PWM whine. I opened it up and found that the module was a little loose inside the head, so I tightened it and it was much quieter afterward.
This was also my first experience with a 105c, so I was a little confused by the mode memory at first. I believe that the memory sets in a particular mode after it has been in that mode for at least 2 secs. Then if you power interrupt by turning it off and on or by half clicking, it comes back on in that same mode. That’s why you get the repeating levels even though usually a half click changes modes. In this case the first half click doesn’t do anything.
But if you try to change modes before the 2 second limit, it moves on to the next mode. This also applies (in a weird way) to turning on the light for less than 2 seconds and then turning it off. When you turn it on again, it goes on to the next mode.
So essentially the light needs to be on a given mode for at least two seconds for memory to remember that mode. And it will come back in that mode after a power interrupt, whether you power cycle or just half press. If it is not in any mode for two seconds, it comes back on in the next mode.
My two samples operate consistently in this way and are both Low - Med - High (strobe - sos). I was a little disappointed that they were 5% - 50% - 100% though and not 15% as advertised. I find it’s difficult to distinguish between med and high. A lower medium definitely would have been better. I also found that the tailcap switches were undersized in my samples, but still operable. It seems like they just used whatever parts they had available…
Hm, thank you for your experiences. Can you go further into explaning how to fix the sound problem? I have no idea how to disassemble this light (tail cap should be easy/standard).
You explanation of the modes seem alright and now I can get used to it : )
I got mine a couple of days ago, in NW. The tint is very nice. The way the modes work is a little confusing, it works just the way that lateotter says.
I did have to dismantle mine and fix the soldering though, the driver to pill joint was non-existent, just a blob which was only soldered to the driver, no wetting on the pill at all. Also the joints on the star were very dry-looking (although they worked). After fixing all this, lubing the threads, and tightening everything up, I now get the advertised 2.8A at the tailcap (slightly over in fact).
I’m used to doing this for just about every light I buy, at these prices I don’t mind!
Taking off the head is the same as unscrewing the tailcap, just from the other end. When you get it off, just use some tweezers to tighten the ring/pill. That’s it, pretty simple.
Yes, same driver and mode arrangement. Its also the same as my Balder SE-2, new version. Although I think mid on the Balder is lower. I really like this UI, but agree a lower or extra mid mode would be great
My sample also has a undersized tailcap switch as lateotter pointed out making my switch offcenter but still works. My lens rattles also. I tried tightening/lossening the bezel to no unavail so I tighten the driver which quite loose, rattle is gone. Tightening down the driver also got rid of the intermittent whining I heard in lo-med and hi modes. I didn’t even get to play with this light for 24 hours and my 11 yr old whom I just gave a Sipik 68 to 2-3 weeks ago wanted the XIAOZHI. I caved in and gave it to him.
I´ve tightened the ring in the front and in the tail. It´s still a juke box. So I´ve disassembled the whole tail cap/switch, re-assembled all and now it either doesn´t wor at all or (after re-assembling it again) it instantly turns on when screwing the tailcap to the light, plus I cannot switch modes anymore
I really don´t know what I am doing wrong, but you might give me some hints re-assembling the swith propoerly (just in case i`m doing THAT wrong).
The humm, buzz, whatever sound you hear in both low and louder in mid seems to be always in the Nanjg drivers - it's very, very common in all my Nanjg driver lights. Though the Nanjg driver is highly touted, that buzz is indicative of something amiss in my opinion that can be corrected. Low and mid mode use PWM at a high frequency, while high mode is full amp output. It may be louder it some lights.
Someone once mentioned its indicative of a slight connection problem. It might be worth running contact cleaner over the pill and host threads. I’ve never worried about it, but it might help.
Anyone know where I can buy a new switch that would fit in the tailcap. The switch in mine is way undercut and is grossly off center. I put in a request to Fancyflashlight but I’m not holding my breath.
