Questions about XIAOZHI CREE XM-L T6

[JackCY]

To all of you!
Read the damn review!

Just kidding, I know you probably bought it before I did and made the review.

@MrCG

I´ve received a “XIAOZHI CREE XM-L T6 LED” ( Link ) and I got some questions about it.

- it makes a clearly hearable beeping sound. Not only on one specific mode but randomly on any. I can´t “recreate” it. it just comes and goes
I´ve tested it with different batteries ad it beeps with all of them.

If it’s a high pitched PVM noise, then it’s from the driver PVM no low and mainly medium mode. Nothing on High mode. Relube and tighten the pills and body. Solves this easily. Use electrically conductive silicone if possible.

• I don´t understand the sequence of the different modes. I´m in group I (5>15>>100%) and it does NOT switch from 5 to 15 to 100.
  It´s more like 100, 15, 15, 5, 5, 100……100,100, 15, 5……100, 100, 15, 15, 5,5. There is NO continuing sequence. It does what it wants…

- Shouldn´t 100, 15 and 5 differ clearly from each other? I need to swith a couple of tmes to see a difference between high and mid and I am never sure if it´s really high or mid.

It’s your first light hey? First Nanjg 105C?

You silly, it’s 2 groups, 5/50/100%, 5/50/100%/FastStrobe/SOS.
Not 15%. The other 105C 4 group version is:

Connect the 2nd star from the left to ground: 3-mode: Lo (5) > Hi (100) > Strobe
Connect the 3rd star from the left to ground: 3-mode: Lo (5) > Mid (30) > Hi (100%)
Connect the 4th star from the left to ground: 2-mode: Lo (10) > Hi (100)
Default (shorting no star): 5-mode: Lo (5) > Mid (30) > Hi (100%) > Strobe > SOS

This is by default a memory after on driver that means that the memory kicks in after about 2s. That’s why you have to reset the timer and then switch the light with a second click in under 2s.

• Mine cannot tail stand. The rubber switch has some play before it hits the actual light´s swith. Even if I´d press the green rubebr part to the switch, it could NOT stand on the tail.
  Is that normal?

Yes, because FF version is a piece of crap when it comes to the tail and nobody before my review cared much to say
Read it!

• compared to the UF-2100 is veeeeery blue-ish. Not really brighter or darker, but blue.

You bought a 1A tint, you got a 1A blueish tint that you ordered. I got a 3C yellowish.

(because of the stated problems, I think the UF-2100 is way better)

Any comments please?

Yes, read and then buy

@arn357

gords1001, yes I did disassemble the tailcap. The switch is cut too small, this is the best centering I could manage. It works but the boot cap is off to one side too. I gave the light to my son, he doesn’t care or notices it. Other than the switch the body is flawless. Very nice output and I really like the 2 mode groups. I never had a light with different mode groups.

My problems with the tail and it’s switch.
Review.
Tail.
Boot.
Switch.

Anybody interested in a spare switches, alone or on a board without a spring, or even with a spring?
Since I might have overheated my switch due to being impatient a little and might buy a whole pack of new. Anybody interested in a GB? Please post in my review, I check it or PM me. So I know how big the interest would be like!

You can see how I repaired the switch to make it tailstand and also screw the tail as much as possible with the body. Removed the metal ring and redesigned the assembly with a hot glue gun

Switch board from FF is for a AA light = 15mm not 17mm, that means you won’t center it in the brass tail ring.

@arn357

Anyone know where I can buy a new switch that would fit in the tailcap. The switch in mine is way undercut and is grossly off center. I put in a request to Fancyflashlight but I’m not holding my breath.

A request? Heh, I did not bother to complain to them. Since they sold it functional and nothing else matters to sellers. Yes check my other threads you can get the switches at several shops, but I will probably be making my own since it’s cheaper then buying the whole assembly from intl-outdoor.

Or as I said, get 3-4 people interested and I can make the switches on 0.9mm boards, with or without a spring, low GITD green boot included, GITD green O-ring for the lens also an option, really depends on what people want and pay.

Switches from CNQG, boards from IO, springs if needed from who ever has the suitable and cheapest ones, boots I already have from KD along with GITD O-rings for the leans. Shipping who knows, $2 envelope.

I still think it’s a good light I will be getting a second one probably and putting a Nichia 219 in it. But I don’t want that silly small switch PCB board again! I don’t want to etch my own again…
Or I just may, because it’s cheaper than buying the boards and my custom boards fit flush and centered.

And please, go ask FastTech to list the host for X-Power = D4 = Xiaozhi 0:)
I want the host they use with the correct switch and boot XD
Well the switch board is enough for me, I got enough boots.