I don’t mod or customize, but am thankful for the comments of help.
What I had in it when it didn’t work: Kinoko IMR26650 4000 unprotected freshly charged (on an I2 Charger).
This stock pill will run over 6A through an Efest 26650 outside the light.
Whoops.. sorry,,.see ya probly meant it for Texas Toasted. 
I’ll mod the pill for you Burgh if you’d like. The XM-L emitter on an Aluminum star and poorly connected (bad thermal paste) simply can’t handle a cell and driver combination that’s gonna run high 5’s or into the 6A range.
If you’d like me to put a Noctigon in it with a better choice of emitter I can do that for you. You could tell Richard at mtnelectronics to send a Noctigon either with or without the emitter and your choice of emitter…if he doesn’t have the one you like already mounted I’ll reflow it and put it in the light with some good Arctic Alumina Thermal Paste and put an insulator between the solder pads and reflector.
Just would like to see everyone thrilled with their lights from this group buy. Mine is a nice light, I have no complaints. Even the stock pill is, like some of y’alls, kickin some serious butt! Amazing that when the good driver comes the rest of the light can’t hang! 
Reading quite some failure cases here I guess I shouldn’t throw in a battery and switch it on when it comes as it is?
make sure the reflector isn’t sitting on the star contacts and make sure the star is properly seated with thermal paste. With the East 092 driver working properly, it’s probably gonna blow the XM-L. Plan on putting a copper star in it, and make sure you do a spring bypass in the tailcap to protect that spring from sagging under the load. Once you’ve over heated the spring with 6A you will no longer get a battery connection.
What would be best insulator type? The butterfly shaped or round type insulator? Mountain E. carries both types.
Something that will physically stop the reflector from touching the solder pads on the star that the driver attaches to. I often split a large diameter shrink tubing and cut a circle that will lay on top of the entire pill, fold it in half, fold it in quarter, then cut a small circle off at the point…this leaves a circle in the middle for the emitter and centering ring to fit in while covering everything else. When screwing the bezel on, press down snugly on the lens to keep the reflector from rotating with the bezel so the soldered leads don’t cut the insulator. Then you KNOW it isn’t going to short out.
This is only worth doing after you pull that aluminum star out of there and get some copper under the emitter. With these East drivers making big Amps on hot cells the copper star is an absolute must.
Richards 19mm Insulation gaskets will do the job, and they won’t get torn easily.
I’ve also had great success filing an angle on the outer portion of the base of the reflector, enabling some clearance for the wires. I just used a 6” bastard file for this and took my time doing it. Others have used rotary tools but I find this an easy way to cause heat to blister the silver lining inside the reflector. Depends on your comfort level. The file is the safest way and isn’t difficult. Just pay attention and don’t go too far…
Thank you DBCstm, and yes I buy this light for the purpose of modding it so I will be very careful in handling it. But usually when the light reached I would put in a battery and test it to see how was the stock output, guess I cannot do this for this light.
DBCstm...really appreciate your experience and input on this. You've helped immensely. Thanks. 
Would some kapton tape over the solder joints be a good idea?
Ah, I see this is one of those reflectors that get way to close to the solder joints and have to have that lip ground down a bit…definitely a “modders” flashlight
Still all the video’s OL made should make it a breeze even for amateurs
I don’t have any 26650’s otherwise I would have jumped on this deal…becuase it looks like a VERY solid light!
My first one (this Tangsfire is my second, the first was unbranded) wouldn’t work right out of the box. I’ve been modifying it ever since. Almost everything about a light that COULD be wrong, my first one invented it.
I like to screw the pill all the way down in the head with no o-ring on it, then put the reflector in and screw the bezel down while paying attention to fitment at the centering ring. Then from the bottom of the head I screw the pill back up against the reflector so that it’s snug. This ensures everything in the head is seated and snug, making it solid. Sometimes this means the battery tube won’t seat against the bottom of the pill itself. I will make a circular contact with an appropriate thickness of copper wire, be that a solid 18 ga or 12 ga. Then I screw the battery tube very snugly against this to ensure everything is grounded. That usually gets me maximum amperage.
I also like to remove that pretty brass insert in the tail cap. Put a wire or braid inside that horribly huge spring so the current flows through the wire instead of the steel spring and that’s usually good for 500 or more mA. My first one had an East 092 driver, but that was back when they were having all kinds of issues with em being severely underpowered. Looks like that isn’t completely resolved, depending…
Lot’s to learn with this light, get it all fine tuned and it’s a great thrower, can be a very intense light. Now I have 2 that shed light on a little barn over 610 yds away. 
Running a Sony C4 18650 with my Ryan copper pill and FET driver, I’m seeing 5.46A and 1656 OTF lumens at start, 1556 OTF at 30 seconds. The cell was rested at 4.09V making these numbers.
Thanks for the offer, but I’m going to put this one on the shelf and think about it for a while. I’m tweaking a few other lights that I like better, so this one can wait.
It’s likely to become an MT-G2 or SST90 light.
Got my no brand HD2010 to Australia a couple of days ago. It works fine. No smoke or weirdness. Not sure how bright it is or what it draws yet. But I can say it punches the light a fair distance. I live on a hill and overlook some rooftops and Im seeing good useable light on a silver roof top over 100meters away. Note there is also a fair amount of light pollution about as its 5:30 am and the sun has been rising for about 40 mins. I can see the roof tops without the light easily, and even then its clear the HD2010 is casting volumes of light at that distance. Panasonic 3400 protected, never tripped the protection, no idea if thats a sign of the HDs amps, or the protection :Sp
I have a clip from my phone, poor quality I assume, but Ill have to wait for my son to get the USB cable for me so I can upload it. For some reason he needs 3. Que!
Do it! Got an SST-90 in bound for mine. I like my ridiculous throwers single mode so going direct drive off a VTC5.
I have no idea how long the two SST-90’s I ordered will take to get here, I’ll probably forget what I was gonna do with em by then.
For those of you who got the wrong driver or got the right driver, but it is faulty, or only does low amps, please PM me.
In your PM to me, include the following:
- Order number
- Date you ordered
- Date you received it
- Exactly what the problem is (Example:) " My light will only put out 1 amp on high, with the East092 driver." OR "My driver was not an East092 driver, it was an XXXX driver (include the numbers on the driver if you can)"
According to my contact, a replacement light or money back can be done.
For those of you that have some other issue, then PM me and I will see what I can do.