I think that would be about perfect for this light.
I really dunno bout the amps/output results. Jury is still out in my mind bout the new CREE LED's. I dunno what's goin on with those high Vf XM-L2's being reported on. I measured a clean 2.8A on the stock X6 BLF SE's on a good cell, totally stock, but othere supposedly measured in ranges of 1.8A to 2.3A. Also heard Y3's getting lower than expected amps because of the LED's. Think 4.3-4.5A would be expected for a good XM-L2 with the LD-1, but probably quite a bit less on a high Vf XM-L2.
You turned your x6 into a quad!? Super nice. How many lumens is it?
Member sb56637 reports his X6 SE with LD-1 driver & both springs wired pulls 4.86A producing 1511 lumens on a NCR18650BD cell. :bigsmile:
Thread
The most potent of my X6 Triple builds to date puts out over 4000 lumens with XP-L V6 2C emitters.
The quad was in an even smaller light, at just over 4400 lumens with wights A17DD-S08 driver.
- That quad build DBCstm was referring to is actually in a PH-08 e-switch host. Information on the build in question is posted in bits in the AxxDD-SO8 driver thread, starting in post #102 and continuing through post #137.
- DBCstm’s powerful triple in the X6 is using the big Ledil Cute optics. Interest in Intl-Outdoors 32mm Noctigon 4x XP-G , *Hank is going with a second run, YAY!*
Just popped open my OSHPark bubbly - 6 A17DD-SO8's, 3 A20DD-SO8's, courtesy of wight!! I'll thank you after I get em populated and crank'n 
. I'm building out a BLF SE X6 for a friend - XP-G2 S2 for throw, so this mod should be my first usage of a A17DD-SO8.
Tough call for the LD-1: the LD-1 has the nice e-switch UI, sort of wasted on the X6, but it would certainly make the lower modes more efficient. Guess it depends on usage...
Now I am no expert or good solder-er, but I am curious why the 105C and adding 4 chips for 12x is not recommended by anyone here to boost the output on this light? Is soldering small parts the reason or does that not work so well?
I’m guessing its modes, but most I know care more about max output than moonlight…ok, not true moonlight, so should I say “bed fort” mode? 
It's not "not recommended", I don't think, it's just that so many options are available now we didn't have 6-12 months ago, like the LD-1 and the custom OSHPark BLF drivers, and tivo532 drivers, plus more... Certainly a year ago, I'd say the boosted Nanjg is option #1.
It's pretty awesome actually... We are still lacking somewhat in buck/boost driver custom capability, but we have some outstanding options, even the zener mod option is pretty exciting...
I think the reason is the spring side components on 105C would interfere with the driver retaining ring.
Regarding fitting a standard BLF17DD, I think it’d be possible. I just ground down a 20mm version and it’s working beautifully in my X6.
In case you haven’t seen enough numbers…
As a baseline reference to compare against when the LD-1 arrives,
With dmm in place of tailcap, my stock X6 SE reads 2.65A from a LG HE2 and 2.10A from an authentic Trustfire Flame 2400mah. Both cells at 4.17v, cheap dmm with stock leads.
Amp reading really varies depending on how much I compress the driver spring.
These readings are with driver spring fully compressed.
I’m going to wire the springs tonight and see what it gains. Then again in a few with the LD-1.
Cool! Did you check the tailcap amps yet?
My opinion is that the stock leads can’t give you a valid ‘baseline’ or gather valid results to compare against that baseline. The stock DMM leads will tend to compress all your measurements together (downwards).
[The resistance of the stock leads is high. With high resistance you’ll get markedly higher voltage drops with when higher currents come into play. While it’s true that you should see higher numbers with a ‘stronger’ driver you just won’t be able to establish a baseline and compare things against that… the higher the current goes the higher the voltage drop and the higher the voltage drop the less the LED is going to be able to draw. There may be circumstances where driver A is actually able to supply a higher current than driver B but you are unable to measure that.]
I’m jealous….you make it sound so easy!!
Yes but if that is so, measuring with the same DMM, you can say light A’s driver at 2.1A allows less current than the 2.6A light B’s driver, and even though the .5A difference may not be .5A…in fact .5A difference should be be MORE than .5A difference using this reasoning … and makes the difference MORE significant, not less. I still don’t see where a baseline with the same battery at same charge state is invalid then…? And if you are saying it’s because one driver causes a larger voltage drop with more current, then thats not going to change with thicker leads either, but that maybe comparing the two drivers can be more difficult than just measuring A in any case…which we already know, but we are just doing as best we can measuring this way in the first place to reason out comparative output of lumens…which most dont have the ability to measure or access to a very standardized and accurate integrating sphere if at all… and round and round…so we come back to measuring A… right?
Good point, my argument for it not being a valid baseline definitely has holes in it. It may be possible, by maintaining reasonably strict conditions, to determine that driver A puts out more current than driver B. (As B42 pointed out - just now how much current.)
I would not go about the measurement or comparison that way. Doubly so since a better tool should cost <$10 (or possibly ‘free’ w/ a free HF DMM & directly soldered leads from scrap wire).
I suppose the biggest problem I have when I get started taking flawed measurements, even under the premise that I’m just doing a comparison, is that I can forget (or not understand) exactly how flawed those measurements are. Next thing you know, despite my intentions, I’ve looked at the measurements and decided that B is not “that” much better than A. I eventually remember that the measurements never had any quantitative value. I’ve done it before in a couple of situations and now I try to avoid that problem if possible. I’m certainly not saying that everyone else necessarily falls victim to the same flawed thinking I have.
I don’t see how the stock dmm leads can be any more restrictive than the tailcap would be if it were installed.
In fact I would expect the leads resistance to approximate the tailcap resistance, giving closer to real world readings as if we were measuring with the tailcap in place.
Also as far as using stock leads for comparison purposes, most here probably have stock leads, so it’s useful to let others know what they would see with a standard lead dmm.
Ill do this. I have some 12ga speaker wire on hand.
I guess i'm gonna have to learn how to mod. very interested in the drivers.
pm me price and availability please.