Did you have a chance to play with this? 
Got the LD-1 installed and I love it! Great increase in lumens!
First I upgraded the leads on my el cheapo DMM.
With the stock leads it read 2.79A on turbo from a LG HE2 fresh off the charger at 4.2 volts
With the upgraded leads, now showing 3.1A on turbo from stock driver!
Now to swap out the driver. I’ve never soldered on something this small before, but somehow it was a success. I was amazed when I switched it on with the LD-1 inside and it worked! I swapped the driver spring from the EE driver to the LD-1, and used solder wick to bypass the spring. The spring is a little crooked but I will fix that later.
Now for the results!
It is tough to get a good reading with no tip on my dmm wires. I didn’t have anything on hand to tip them with, just wanted to get the driver in and get some readings. Eventually I will refine the leads so that I can get more consistent readings, but this seems to be the new amp level on high from the LD-1 with a fresh LG HE2.
4.56A! EDIT: upon further testing 4.8A Up from 3.1A on the stock driver! I didn’t test to see what the gains were from braiding the driver spring, I just braided it as I installed it. This was the perfect boost for this light. I didn’t have time to take beam shots but may update in the future. With the LD-1 this X6 SE is a barn burner on high! Boy is it nice! It sure did achieve my goal of having an impressive show-off light. After having a little time to spend playing with the light, I can say the modes are perfect. The moonlight is very nice, and the medium is a nice spacing between high and low. I didn’t enable the turbo, the standard 4 modes on LD-1 are great. Really cannot stop playing with this light now. It dissipates heat fantastically. It doesn’t get hot on high but just warm enough to feel good in your hand.
So, when you went from 2.79A to 3.10A, could you see a difference in the light output? J)
Only from the metaphorical light bulb in my head. 
I like the sound of WoW! on high to impress comibined with modes suitable for general use around the house time to take a course in soldering maybe getting a couple of really cheap drivers to ruin while learning
Glad it worked out! There's solder jumper options (Turbo, moonlight) I believe. Have to check his LD-1 threads - one has all the details in the OP I believe.
Just checked here in the OP: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/29455. You can disable moon mode via a solder jumper, so that should help.
Impressive!
rub it in modders, heartless.
Modding a light is hard if you have trouble getting it open. These lights have no glue. Get the parts and a decent soldering iron and you can pull it off pretty easily, I think. Practice on some scrap copper wire and an hour later, you’re done.
Now to find that hour.
Exactly right. This was my first mod besides wiring a tailcap spring or two. My skills are rough and my hands shaky. My soldering iron is cheap (but does have a fine point tip) and in bad shape. Even with 3x magnification I could barely see what I was doing, thought along the way that I’d desoldered a component or melted something. But to my amazement it worked and was simple 5 or 6 steps. Beginner level project really, which is why I was able to do it. My previous experience is not much more than soldering speaker wires together.
Man…that sounds eerily familiar :bigsmile:
Good job! Now look at what you have, a really nice hot rod with a unique driver and custom work done by…YOU!
Sweet, isn’t it?
Right! Nobody gets there if they don’t start. I’m certain we all began with something along those lines. I sure am glad that I decided to take the hatchet to a few things until I was on the bike and pedaling. … so to speak.
I’ve done it, and as said above, when it worked I felt like I just was lucky. I don’t want to goof up this one, but it would be awesome if it was brighter.
The maximum damage potential here seems rather low. Are you worried about a specific aspect/scenario?
Testing again tonight, I was able to get as high as 4.8A on the same HE2 cells with this LD-1 driver!
Maybe I’m not doing it right. When I push down on the battery to take a reading I get a range of results depending on how hard I push down. So I just find a repeatable number with firm pressure and go with that. But if I press down really hard, completely mashing the driver spring flat, I can get the highest reading, like the 4.8A tonight. So which is correct? Just how much does that spring get compressed? It makes a big difference in amp reading.
You’ll have to physically measure your parts and find out! Spring compression certainly depends on the length of the cell you install.
When the top of the spring firmly contacts the bottom resistance is lower. I’m not sure whether it’s normal for a braided spring to show such a wide variance between compressed and uncompressed though… 0.24A seems like a lot to me.
My batteries are flat top with big round solder blobs. I need to see if button top do the same thing.
The spring being compressed really shouldn’t matter. I always get this fluctuation measuring amps depending on haw hard I press, no matter what is being measured or what leads used.
Good Day Angler, 
Make sure the DMM's battery is good.
Also if You compress the spring enough, then the current path/circuit will be shorter, therefore less resistance (as the spring coils touch each other).
Also check your soldering of the driver's spring.
Regards,
George
Disclosure: I am not yet a modder, but some day soon.... 
Some fluctuation based on contact pressure is normal too, no surprise there. I haven’t noticed a variance like what you have reported on my (similar) setup, but I’ll play around again and see what I find.