Recommend Me a Dropin

I recently bought myself a P60 based light in the form of a Solarforce L2n. Really just to see what the fuss is all about with P60s.

Anyway I have played around with it a little bit since then. I bought an Ahorton aspheric lens kit, made myself a single mode hard driven XP-G2 (was quite boring) dropin, I bought the XM-L2 T6 3A dropin from IOS which is still in transit.

However in the lantern thread on here someone posted a link to the LT-1 lantern attachment and stand kit. I had to have it, so I bought that straight away and it’s still in transit. What I am after now though is a good quality dropin to use with this lantern head. Preferably single mode but if not I want the highest mode to only be driven at a level where I can leave it on for a reasonable amount of time without any serious heat issues. Preferably a neutral tint as I feel this will be more pleasing as a lantern light (a tint like the MT-G2 would be ideal!)

So what can you suggest?

XML2 T6 '4C' is the closest tint match to my MTG2s.

For a no-nonsense make-it-do-what-you-want driver it's hard to beat a 105C flashed with DrJones' Nlite code. Solder stars 3 & 4 to get low-mid-high mode order, no memory, always starts on low.

Care to elaborate on what that means?

I have used plenty of 105C drivers but am not familiar with flashing codes in them.

-USB ASP programmer (http://www.fasttech.com/products/1002900)

-some wires

-SOIC-8 programming clip

-Nanjg 105C driver

-WinAVR software package (http://winavr.sourceforge.net)

-the Nlite code (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/18531)

Plug it all together, paste a string of text into a command prompt window, and it's done.

Ah righto, doesn’t seem all that difficult.

could I use one of THESE or does it need only specific wires attached?

It looks as though that harness would plug straight into the socket on the USB ASP board? But it also looks as though it has more wires attached to it than the one in your photo.

Only 6 of the 8 pins need connections, I just removed the two that weren't needed. Less clutter, and also gives an easy indication of which direction the clip goes on the chip. Leaving the pins in the clip but not connected to the USB programmer won't hurt anything, or they can be removed, that model just has wires attached permanently to the clip pins. You won't use the little adapter board included with that one.

The connections between the clip pins and programmer pins:

That connector, viewed from that end, is laid out as:

MISO SCK RST N/C MOSI

N/C N/C N/C GND VCC