It looks like it would be functional, but I’m not sure how easily I could make it work with a mount. At least not in a way that would look well and purpose made for this application.
I mean, if it comes down to it… I’ll just buy a 3xXml t6 drop in and machine a housing with clamp for the bike.
I just wondered if there was anything out there for a reasonable price that I could get already made.
(Some thoughts: The input is said to be 8.4 Volts, so I suppose it works on 2 Li-ions in series (2x2 in the batterypack), I guess if two of these lights are used in series 12V will work. Or maybe the buck driver can handle 12V on its own? Sorry, I'm not a driver expert..)
I actually don’t mind the look of it. I know it’s not a chrome bullet… but that doesn’t concern me much. As long as it looks like a quality piece that serves it’s function well… that’s all i ask.
I see that it’s rated for 8.4v. Will that work for my 12v system? I’d also like to see one that didn’t come with the battery pack.
Why not just go with a pair of these: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/11491
Hard wire them into the bike's electrical system for monster light! Like bolting 2 SR Kings onto the bike but already in black. I think it'd be hot! ;)
I like the idea. Just right for the bike. I just wish I didn’t have to pay for the battery pack. I’m sure I can find something to use it for though. Are you saying that this can support 12v? I don’t see those specs on the page at cnq
It’s probably the easiest way to go. They are certainly bright too. My only concern is that I’ve had bad luck trying to run those ballasts off of my bike’s electrical system. Constantly having them shut off in the middle of use. Might be too much drain.
You are right, there aren’t any specs and it’s probably 4-cells in parallel. My bad. You can always wire in a voltage regulator to provide the correct voltage. Should be cheaper and easier to get/make the proper driver to wire into the system. A 12-volt 9A driver like KD sells wired into the system should work. You might have to rewire the LEDs in series but that should be easy if you solder.
Another option is a DRY reflector for under $9, the DRY driver for $5 and the XM-L emitters. The DRY driver runs on 12V. All you'd need are the housings.
I think I'd go with ChiX's suggestion for PilotPTK's setups. All in one solution except for the housings.
Number 2 might just do the trick. I’m a little concerned that not having a pivot on the actual body of the light would make it difficult to align the beam from the frame, but it should work fine on engine guards. Who knows, maybe it would be just right on the frame too.
I wonder how the design lends itself to an upgrade like T6 LEDs and a DRY driver.