It is simply the batteries or how the driver reacts to worn down batteries. There is no triggering turbo on brand new batteries. It won’t step down until the batteries are depleted.
I just remembered it does have a thermal step down that was set very very high, but that has never been activated. The only step-downs with new and functioning batteries are when the batteries are depleted. And of course you have the step-downs immediately with older worn down batteries for reasons yet unknown.
What is happening with the 30Q’s seem to be unknown and are educated guesses my members more educated on flashlight Electronics than myself.
Yes, and my suggestion is to help you narrow down which one it is.
If by ‘triggering turbo’ you mean ‘triggering turbo step down’ then that’s right, i know your high current batteries don’t step down until they’re too depleted to re-engage turbo. But in the first post you say you have MJ1s, GAs, and P26Aa that all step down in the same way as the 30Qa? You could use any of those?
I understand enough about internal resistance and voltage sag to know why your 30Qs and lower drain batteries won’t sustain turbo mode, i am specifically looking at why turbo mode can become sustained by your 30Qs after several unsuccessful attempts as this goes against basic logic.
I also know that the characteristics of electrical components can change with temperature which means the driver spec changes slightly as the components warm up.
My thought is that the 30Qs in their current state are just under the threshold of being able to systain turbo, and that several bursts of turbo result in that threshold changing enough for turbo to now be sustainable.
If this is the case then it doesn’t matter which batteries are used to provide those turbo bursts, hence my test suggestion.
If the changes are due to heat then just running the torch on high for a while also produce the same result.
Battery characteristics also change with temperature, though i don’t know enough about how to know if this could be the answer.
The Vf of an LED reduces with heat too, so it may be that the several turbo bursts are heating up the LED enough to allow the 30Qs to sustain turbo.
The point is that the 30Qs repeatedly drop out of turbo, and then illogically they don’t.
So the repeated turbo activations are changing something but we don’t know what.
It makes sense to me to narrow down the area of change, my suggestion was intended to help with that.
I wasn’t clear enough in the first post about my p26a, mj1’s and ga’s.
I started with MJ1 and GA’s when I got the light about 4 years ago. They were new and didn’t have the power to maintain Turbo and kept stepping down from the beginning just like my older 30qs. The p26a on the other hand we’re just like the 30q’s in a sense once they got older 2 years or so they could no longer sustain Turbo when I turned on the light.
My solution arrived in the mail today a present from my brother.
He heard me b**** about the light a few weeks ago and things aren’t that great with me. Been out of work for a while. I now have 4 X P28A BT from Liionwholesale being charged and then the capacity test on my opus. Runtime test tomorrow and on the trail with them on Wednesday evening.
Thanks for your help.
Cheers
P.S.
I still have the ga’s and MJ ones. They are in different lights that don’t require a lot of amp draw. They are doing well for 4 years old.
That would indeed be very interesting to know. It would also end any speculation.
“Grade A” cells have a much tighter IR range than do “Grade B” cells.
Of course, any IR measurements enthusiasts make would have to be done properly and with proper equipment to be meaningful.
IR measurements done on most consumer grade battery chargers are little better than a guess & shot in the dark.
But for use in flashlights or vapes, who really cares if the cell is Grade A or B???
Some of the best cells avaiable can be acquired from unused battery packs that sat on a shelf till their expiration date.
Absolutely. If you want to be 100% sure you got real grade A Samsung/Murata/Sanyo cells , pull them out of a battery pack you grabbed off the shelf at home depot. You can tell right away that the batteries going to the big buyers have better quality control. They’ve got the money. Cells out of packs, even old ones that haven’t been cycled, register 1/4 the internal resistance on the charger as new ones bought online. Samsung 20r’s would sometimes just show up as 0 internal resistance lol.
These are getting harder and harder to find though. Before the pandemic every discount battery pack had Samsung’s. Like every single one. Now even the most expensive brands might only have Samsung’s or muratas or Sanyos in the one battery pack at the top of their line. You’ll find Eve’s, if you’re lucky. Brands like Great Power, HighStar, other random chinese cells are much more common. Because the real big buyers now and EV manufacturers. Even the tool companies are small fish now. Oh you need 100,000 cells to make all the packs you’re gonna make this month? So…like 12 cars worth? Pass. Call me when you can build us a new factory. And a new island to put that new factory on.
In my experience, regardless of the chemistry of the cell, the Internal Resistance of any cell plays a big role in the performance of the remaining life of the cell. I have never encountered a high IR cell that can maintain a high-amp load, assuming that that specific cell is rated to carry that load.
Sadly, I do not know how what is considered High IR in a specific chemistry.
This IR device in the photo below has been very consistent, has repeatability that non of my analyzing chargers with IR capability can duplicate, though naturally I don’t expect them to be accurate in the first place.
In relation to this op’s question, the inability to push original output is directly caused by high IR and degradation resulting to gradual loss of capacity.
I have one of those 4 wire resistance testers also — It has taught me a lot, cells that I use to match by capacity were just a blind shot in the dark.
There’s a way to measure resistance under load-- I can’t find the video for the right formula
Basically – Take voltage reading with a 1 amp load — Take a second voltage reading with a 5-10 amp load — The next part is where my old brain can’t remember — I used this method a few times , but kind of a hassle
Is that Test in the Opus or in the Flashlight – I would think the 30Q would have a longer runtime – Considering it has a little more capacity and doesn’t put out as many amps as the Molicel
As mentioned prior, The flashlight is the TN42 CFT90. That is what the Grade A Genuine Molicel P28A BT batteries are for.
The capacity test is in the Opus which is obvious! Runtime test is in the flashlight. TN42.
The 30Q Did… have more run time when they were new. They’re getting buried this week!
I stated that , maybe in a vague way. I said As expected the Max runtime for the Grade A Genuine Molicel P28A BT are right inbetween the Grade A Genuine Molicel P26A and the Grade A Genuine 30Q BT…
Meaning …P26A has the least, P28A is in the middle, and 30Q has the most run time.
All Molicels from Liion Wholesale are grade A. We supply many of those huge manufacturers of battery packs you mention, some of whom were purchasing direct from Molicel before. Their tests also confirmed the cells are grade A and identical to the ones they get from Molicel.
Our Molicels are purchased through authorized channels and are contractually required to be grade A, it’s not like the grey market Samsungs and LGs sold by other sellers.
Fair enough explanation about the Molicels you sell. Thank you…
Can the same be said for the Samsung, LG, & other brands you sell??
Or is it a crap shoot as to what Grade they are??
Everything we sell is grade A, unless we explicitly call it out as not grade A in the description (which is very rare).
As an FYI, we don’t sell Samsung or LG cells. The only way to resell these is to get grey market cells. So we don’t.
We do have some Liion Wholesale brand products that use Samsung or LG cells in them but that’s different, especially since most are considered protected battery packs. Those are of course grade A.
