I’ve got another member interested in 100-200 boards depending on price
I could go for 200pcs, it would be quite the sort after accessory
I’m going to ask Lan and Barry again about the switch they sold back last year- it has an excellent “touch” button (*which is also the on/off switch). I don’t even use the “pressure pad” part as the on/off button itself acts like a (round) forward clicker. My hunting buddy LOVED his on a pig hunt last March down in Texas.
The “light touch” is a key feature of that switch and Simon’s is too hard to use in the field after I hunted with it several times. Everything is harder to “switch” and the pressure pad alone is too stiff. If anyone knows a source for something like this I’d love to know about it too!
Thanks guys! 
Hmm, okay, I found Sofirn’s pad no good on a few pcs as it required too much pressure to keep the light solid. Now, Nitesun’s switches are quite decent and wholesale is $2.77.
Convoy did update those pressure switches to be more quiet and every customer has only given feedback to how good the setup is. I will note that Convoy’s isn’t waterproof at the tailcap, while Sofirn’s used an oring
Sofirn’s switch is still sold with the TF84 so it could be on option. The current isn’t passing through the pad on a Mosfet is it? Might be the best route
I used a biopsy punch to cut a clean hole in the silicone tailcap that was just a bit undersized for the wire passing through. I’m sure it’s not rated down to 10m depth or anything, but I’m sure it’ll survive any downpour. Additional sealant can be used to pot the tailcap if needed.
Schematic was forwarded to Quadruple for pcb design. I have all components for test boards in my Mouser cart ready for order. Ran more circuit modeling to tune in component specs, but will test in real world before scaling this.
Rock onward!!!
We have to determine weather we need 20mm or 17mm PCBs! Measure your switches!
I need Zappaman to do that on the L21B. The C8+ is 16mm and L21A is 20mm which should be the same as the L21B
Hmmm… Mine version is 17mm. Maybe I could fit 16mm but I doubt I could fit 20mm…
It will be kind a problem is someone needs 20, 16 or 17mm… I think it will be much easier to JaredM and Quadrupel to concentrate on 1 dimension for start? In fact they need to decide 
We would also need to find a reliable source on remote switches (cable only). Some remote switches are just terrible and loud… It got to be dead silent…
15.7mm to be exact, but with roughly 1.5mm to spare
So you could fit 17mm? 15.7+1.5= 17.2? If you have space for 17mm in your plastic switch cup(or holder) than you should go for 17mm switch.
I’m thinking 17mm. I’ll have another look tomorrow, it’s 12:30am here 
I have installed Lexel’s FET PCB into my C8+ and field tested it twice now on pig hunts with 100% success (and I have not potted the FET’s yet- but will).
I also have installed the same Lexel FET into older Sofirn C8Fs (the original 1” 18650 hosts which I built to DD- straight from the FET to the LED- no driver). The old C8F triple is the SAME diameter as Simon’s C8+ and you can use STANDARD 1” scope rings to mount them to any rail (on an AR or off a scope using some after-market “add on” rail mounts that attach to the middle of the rifle scope). But I am working on a better mount from a machinist I am trading some lights with (for his specialty light mount that is similar to his bow hunting light rig he’s sold a lot of the last three years).
On the L21b… 21.45mm is the ID of the threads cut into the tail cap (and so also the OD of the brass retaining ring). I didn’t remove the switch, but the brass retaining ring’s ID is right at 15.2mm (so it could hold a 17mm FET PCB, but I’d probably pot the whole thing after installing to keep it from moving around). I like JaredM’s idea using the silicon tail pad “punched” then potted.
So a 17mm FET PCB fits my C8’s fine and can be made to fit into larger tail caps… I’d say go with the 17mm form-factor and call it good. OR… if the design keeps everything towards the middle (and 3mm or so can be “shaved” off the final board diameter) then THAT would be another cool way to go— so the larger tailcaps have a good fit otherwise!
Quadruple shared images of his pcb layout today and I’ll let him post them. I like it a lot and think you all will too. Im thinking of making both a 16.5mm and 20mm version. All we may need is a cut piece of tubing to provide spacing in place of the usual switch+washer setup.
The individual adapters for each light isnt something I can provide at this time.
One question - are these still limited to drivers that operate on max only? Lexel told me his would cycle through the levels each time the switch was pressed
They will act just as any other tailswitch. So a multimode driver will remain multimode, and depending on the drivers use of ON time or OFF time memory etc it may or may not change modes after a single interruption.
I’m creating a new thread for this. Will link it once it’s made.
I can confirm that using it with my Conyoy lights (and Simon’s new ramping driver), that it acts the same. I have Simon install forward clicky switches for my hunting lights, so they will cycle IF you 1/2 click faster (with the foward clicky switch it comes with or the FET switch… acts the same). In general, they do fine with standard hunting use where after a few seconds off, if you hit the FET again- it does come up full output again (which I why I LOVE this driver- it’s perfect for a hunting light)!
I have some hunters who JUST want the forward clicky switch (they typically just mount to the left, front side of an AR rail where they hold the forward end— right next to the thumb where they prefer to just tap with the left thumb (if shooting right sided of course). One guy likes it on top of the scope where he’d prefer to just reach-up and work the light left handed (usually while on a rest or shooting sticks) where he just holds down on the light (Vs. the forward stock) when shooting (palm over it using the thumb again to work the light).
I have guys using them all kinds of ways, but most of us like the pressure switch IF it’s easy to work without the need for hard work to get it to light-up. I wrote Barry and Lan at Sofirn this morning asking for the switch they sold last year- sent a picture too. So we’ll see what they come up with and I’ll get back to this post with what I learn.
Exciting!!!
Simon informed me that the reflector isn’t as good as the L21A and it doesn’t focus properly. He’s waiting on the SFT40 to see if it’s okay using that LED.
Did you ever hear back from Sofirn?