JaredM, Tomorrow I will send some notes to you here. I'll measure Lexel's board, send a picture or two and some general info. One thing I can say that sucks with Lexel's board is the solder points are very hard to work with- both are out on the edge of the board (and tiny), so easy to break when installing into the tail cap. One solder point is also in front of the battery (where it slides into the frame that holds it), so if you want to update the battery, you have to pull that wire off to do it. I am hoping without a battery in the way, that a new board won't be so tight to install!
Funtastic, I HAVE the new L21B (got it in three days ago!) I'd guess you have some coming soon too ;) I'll measure it tomorrow as well and include it with the info above. Thanks guys!!!
Uh… pressure switches are an unknown to me right now, but I don’t like Simon’s and need another source. Sofirn’s last one they sold last year is GREAT, but they no longer have it for sale
But (for me) I only need the FET PCB. Here is the “quick and dirty” from one of Lexels in the hand with my calipers handy:
17.25 diameter
6.25 thick
When I got pressure switches in the past, they have always have a plastic rear piece (replacing the rubber switch pad- allowing the wire to enter). For the three C8 pressure switches I modded— the INNER diameter of this rubber switch replacement plastic was either right on, or a little tight where I had to widen out the ID of this plastic rear piece to allow the FET PCB to fit inside it.
Again, the solder points, battery (and all) on the outer side of the PCB made it impossible to mount the PCB in FRONT of this rear plastic piece (like we do drivers which have some “lip” to tighten the retaining ring down to— on the outside edge). So just to say that if the PCB has enough “edge” on BOTH sides- then this will be a lot easier to fit into about any pressure switch without having to shave that plastic piece out pretty thin (to push the PCB down into it otherwise). I think anyone who has modded drivers knows what I’m saying here
My lights use reverse clicky switch we mostly use here for years Kan28 or Omten PBS101 (they are same thing)… Not sure for number… But if that number means switch dimension it is 1812 switch…
I would say that you stick to 17mm PCB for the start.
And as guys mentioned Lexel version is bit fiddly to solder…. Make + - contact pads(solder points) bit wider.
Here is my pic of Lexel FET PCB switch with battery:
Exactly! I also had to fiddle with that plastic remote switch holder and solder + - wires in this orientation from pic in order to fit the switch correctly…
New switch(hopefully version without battery) has to be strategically designed for easy soldering and without obstacles for mounting switch back to plastic housing.
I’m going to ask Lan and Barry again about the switch they sold back last year- it has an excellent “touch” button (*which is also the on/off switch). I don’t even use the “pressure pad” part as the on/off button itself acts like a (round) forward clicker. My hunting buddy LOVED his on a pig hunt last March down in Texas.
The “light touch” is a key feature of that switch and Simon’s is too hard to use in the field after I hunted with it several times. Everything is harder to “switch” and the pressure pad alone is too stiff. If anyone knows a source for something like this I’d love to know about it too!
Hmm, okay, I found Sofirn’s pad no good on a few pcs as it required too much pressure to keep the light solid. Now, Nitesun’s switches are quite decent and wholesale is $2.77.
Convoy did update those pressure switches to be more quiet and every customer has only given feedback to how good the setup is. I will note that Convoy’s isn’t waterproof at the tailcap, while Sofirn’s used an oring
Sofirn’s switch is still sold with the TF84 so it could be on option. The current isn’t passing through the pad on a Mosfet is it? Might be the best route
I used a biopsy punch to cut a clean hole in the silicone tailcap that was just a bit undersized for the wire passing through. I’m sure it’s not rated down to 10m depth or anything, but I’m sure it’ll survive any downpour. Additional sealant can be used to pot the tailcap if needed.
Schematic was forwarded to Quadruple for pcb design. I have all components for test boards in my Mouser cart ready for order. Ran more circuit modeling to tune in component specs, but will test in real world before scaling this.
Hmmm… Mine version is 17mm. Maybe I could fit 16mm but I doubt I could fit 20mm…
It will be kind a problem is someone needs 20, 16 or 17mm… I think it will be much easier to JaredM and Quadrupel to concentrate on 1 dimension for start? In fact they need to decide
We would also need to find a reliable source on remote switches (cable only). Some remote switches are just terrible and loud… It got to be dead silent…
I have installed Lexel’s FET PCB into my C8+ and field tested it twice now on pig hunts with 100% success (and I have not potted the FET’s yet- but will).
I also have installed the same Lexel FET into older Sofirn C8Fs (the original 1” 18650 hosts which I built to DD- straight from the FET to the LED- no driver). The old C8F triple is the SAME diameter as Simon’s C8+ and you can use STANDARD 1” scope rings to mount them to any rail (on an AR or off a scope using some after-market “add on” rail mounts that attach to the middle of the rifle scope). But I am working on a better mount from a machinist I am trading some lights with (for his specialty light mount that is similar to his bow hunting light rig he’s sold a lot of the last three years).
On the L21b… 21.45mm is the ID of the threads cut into the tail cap (and so also the OD of the brass retaining ring). I didn’t remove the switch, but the brass retaining ring’s ID is right at 15.2mm (so it could hold a 17mm FET PCB, but I’d probably pot the whole thing after installing to keep it from moving around). I like JaredM’s idea using the silicon tail pad “punched” then potted.
So a 17mm FET PCB fits my C8’s fine and can be made to fit into larger tail caps… I’d say go with the 17mm form-factor and call it good. OR… if the design keeps everything towards the middle (and 3mm or so can be “shaved” off the final board diameter) then THAT would be another cool way to go— so the larger tailcaps have a good fit otherwise!
Quadruple shared images of his pcb layout today and I’ll let him post them. I like it a lot and think you all will too. Im thinking of making both a 16.5mm and 20mm version. All we may need is a cut piece of tubing to provide spacing in place of the usual switch+washer setup.
The individual adapters for each light isnt something I can provide at this time.
One question - are these still limited to drivers that operate on max only? Lexel told me his would cycle through the levels each time the switch was pressed
