Removing phosphor

According to the thread “A Perfect Dedome?” A Perfect Dedome? , acetone tends to remove the phosphor as well as the dome. So, rather than looking for a royal blue XM-L, I put an old XM-L, from an UltraFire Yezl t9 stile light, that I had replaced with a Philips PC Amber, into a baggie full of acetone. After half a day, the dome is off but no sign of blue. Washing your car because you want it to rain doesn’t work!
Anyone else removed phosphor or tried to?

i googled for things that dissolves phosphor…

According to Wikipedia “Cerium(III)-doped YAG (YAG:Ce3, or Y3Al5O12:Ce3) is often used.” The common phosphors are in-organic compounds that probably can’t be dissolved at room temperature. Organic scintillators would probably degrade too easily. But they are probably in a powder form and applied to the diode with an organic bonding agent such as epoxy or acrylic, that is painted on. Maybe I’ll go look for paint remover.

I found a can in the store room marked “stripper” and added some. No blue yet but weighting.

There’s this place down the road that looks like all they have are Strippers! At least that’s what the big flashing sign says… well actually I think it says “Live Strippers” :party:

I tried!

After I had unsuccessful dedoming (a bit of blue in the corners) I used razor to shave phosphor and I got very angry blue to purple color. I really cant think of any use for such emitter so it is in junk parts closet.

Be gentle when scratching and use magnification goggles.

You might try lifting off the dome without heating the LED or acetone.

The phosphor layer will probably come off with the dome, and lift the dome just until you hit the bond wires.

Finish off the bond wires with acetone/gasoline so that they are intact.

It's historically been difficult to remove a dome without damaging the phosphor layer. Who would have thought that it would be hard to completely remove the phosphor layer. I hope a good solution is found. I've been wanting to do the same to see if the emitter would be good for finding blood and if it had enough UV to be useful for that. I figure I could use for remote phosphor lighting if not.

The mixture of paint stripper and acetone didn’t do it. I brushed it with a soft model airplane paint brush. It still glows the same uniform cold white when I set my multimeter on 200 Ohms and touch the contacts. Just a very neat dedome, without the smell of gasoline.
Maybe scraping it off might work if I avoid the bond wires. I suppose gallium nitride is very hard.

Added: no sign of the phosphor coming off but it is dead I suppose I broke the bond wires.

Is it pure phosphor or phosphor bound in some kind of glue/resin?

they’re extremely useful for charging GITD stuff.

Unfortunately, I have to suggestion for xml2…seems to be tough stuff. Very easy to remove from MTG2 (especially with no bond wires exposed…)

Thanks on idea! Got some silicone GITD fishing lures. Never think about that :) So blue light should charge them better(they should last longer?) than white one. Lure holds glow for a while(one spin) even with white one.

An mtg2 with no phosphor charges glow stuff absurdly fast. I have glow lures, and a lot of glow tape on camping odd and ends.

I use a UV laser for my lures. If MTG2 had a lower Vf, so that I could build a single 18650 pocket light, I would definitely use that instead of the laser.

It would also be extremely effective as a disorienting strobe. At high levels, the light it creates gives you a painful and disoriented feeling even without strobe.

I've heard that contact with some strippers can be messy and best avoided to prevent possible health issues.

Super-glue it to something and pull. Good to know it’s chemical resistant.

by the way i think it is very very easy to remove the phosphor from the XT-E leds i have three of them came from FT crushed in the package but they were still working then i removed what left from the dome by razor blade and found the phosphor is falling apart