Replacing Laptop cells

I need help, hope some forum members are into this.
My laptop battery almost died it can hold a capacity for about 10 minutes and it is about 6 years old.

I managed to open it very hard and need much time, but I open it with small damages to the housing so it can be assembled back.

Inside are 6 x 18650 cells I don’t know which brand try to google codes but nothing, from colour I can say it is about Sanyo or LG cells, maybe I can find what is about when I disassemble the connection between them…

My power cord for this laptop is rated at 130W, laptop battery is at 11.1V and it can hold 48Wh which it gives a little above 4000 mAh of capacity. It is about serial parallel connection on the cells…

The main question is after I replace a cells with new ones, how to reset electronics, is there some way to do that or I need some special software and equipment ?

As far as I get with my own this chip left need to be reseted :

I read that people replace cells and battery simply wont work since they don’t reset electronic so it can know that new cells are inside and to get a new calibration. So does anyone do this, and what I need to know, or you know some place where I can ask this kind of questions and get help… ?

Buying a new battery to almost 7 years laptop is not a solution since I don’t know how much it will work more since it start to falling apart and new battery is too much expencive, so I already have 6x 18650 only need to know how to do this in proper way if it is possible ?

I have read this before as well, but not sure if that’s how it actually works. Maybe it measures voltage/capacity/internal resistance.

Lots of people have taken laptop packs apart for its batteries, but this is the first time I see someone trying to put in new cells into one. I would just simply purchase a replacement pack from ebay, it will costs less than the batteries itself if you’re going for the decent ones.\_from=R40&\_trksid=m570.l1313&\_nkw=j1knd&\_sacat=0

If you want to use your existing cells, this pack has 3S2P setup. Without a li-ion spot welder you can use a dremel or sandpaper to scrape off the superficial layer off the contact ends (otherwise solder won’t stick), then solder nickel tabs. Try to make it as flush as possible. Can’t help you with the cell calibration or resetting the PCB, but try to use cells that have the same internal resistance and capacity.

Thanks, but I’m afraid that cells shipped from china and sell there are not genuine, so I’m in risk to give 30$ for I don’t know what will get + will have additional cost on customs + vat …

I have all, cells are new ones and they have solder tags on them I will not solder on cells will solder on nickel strips to connect all and connect with electronics. Cells are not same since I can’t find this ones, but 3500 mAh cell and 10A will be in configuration, so I don’t think that will be problem, main problem is what to do with electronics.

Well they’re not advertised to be of any specific brand so technically they don’t need to be genuine, but 2,000mAh is an easily achievable number even for generic chinese cells, unless the manufacturer really wants to rip you off I don’t think the cells in those $20 packs are necessarily bad.

Another thing to consider is that the battery pack was designed to use with older cells, and probably has LVP as high as 3.2V. In such case there would be little benefit going for 3,500mAh cells which will provide full capacity only when discharged down to 2.5V.

Don’t know honestly, all of this are just guessing, because of that I post this in hope that someone will respond but with real and checked informations, or tell where I can find about this.

For me it is not important to have a benefit from 3500 mAh cells, it is important that I know what is inside and that it have real capacity and genuine cells which can work for years and can provide enought amps since laptop is strong configuration… at least I have this cells ready just need to find way to use it here, if not then I will maybe consider buying a Chinese cell from ebay.

They can spot weld tabs on them too.

Looks like Sanyo.

Here is a good page for identifying batteries by their wrap.

IF you are gonna replace them, it’s interesting to replace them with high capacity cells.
They don’t have to be high drain, i think.
Good old Panny 3400mAh would be good enough.

Don’t yet disamble a join since don’t yet know what to do, so I can’t determine what exactly cells are about, but it mostly like that are Sanyo ones. Markings are : A PHDAYD5 with some different numbers below.

Nothing does not mean to me all of this, untill I figure out what to do with electronics on this battery…