You’re most welcome! 
You MUST report on the results of that upgrade. Sounds killer! >)
I’ll try to get some pictures while I’m up north, it’s about time I learned how to take beamshots.
Nice upgrade Infiniti. I think it will be less dark at the lake this weekend
Johnny, relic Thank you! Either way, my paranoid brain said “remove the anodizing Richard” so I did. Used a dremel type tool with a circular wire brush and took off most if not all the anodizing of the threads inside the head. There was enough space between the threads of the pill and head that I could wrap the pill with a single layer of aluminum foil before screwing it in. The light hasn’t been completely reassembled as yet since I want to put in a Dr Jones, 8x7135, lupodrv. The 3C tints on these lights are just so yummy!
Here are my thermal test results.
Temperature measured with IR temperature probe, Light on High with a fully charged Panasonic NCR18650A 3100mAh cell.
Head temperature:
| Time | Temperature (Deg C) |
| 0 | 18.8 |
| 10s | 19.8 |
| 20s | 21.4 |
| 30s | 22.2 |
| 40s | 23.2 |
| 50s | 24.0 |
| 60s | 25.4 |
| 90s | 27.4 |
| 120s | 29.0 |
| 150s | 31.4 |
| 3m | 33.2 |
| 4m | 36.2 |
| 5m | 38.6 |
| 6m | 41.2 |
| 7m | 43.4 |
| 8m | 45.4 |
| 9m | 47.2 |
| 10m | 49.4 |
Cell temperature at 10m: 43.4C
Body temperature at 10m: 44.0C
I let it run for 25 minutes on High and it got incredibly hot. In retrospect I think that was no very smart I could have damages the led(?) Anyway, I wanted to test a laptop pull cell (Samsung 2600mAh) that after charging to 4.19V dropped to 4.12V. It did run on High for 47 minutes, so I guess the capacity is OK. After said 25 minutes I pulled the battery to measure it and let the body cool off a bit. After another 22 minutes on High the light turned to Low and blinking. I pulled the cell and measured 3.3V and after 10 minutes at rest measured 3.76V. Is that low voltage warning?
Johnny, I was being lazy with my previous response. Yes I do understand from your review that the head and body compresses the pill and keeps it in place. What my issues is is that if the threads of the pill and the body were a good mesh, the pill would not rattle as much when uncompressed. I’m not saying that it is horrid but I guess because of the anodizing, the rattling sound is a bit louder than what I’m used to. 
When I made the coment about the body getting hotter than the head, I believe there is some validity in those words. Considering that the top of the body tube is flat and touches the pill directly, I’d expect that heat would quickly transfer to the tube. Either way, as mentioned previously, the anodizing has been removed and in my opinion, heat transfer is better now than before. Thanks again for your thorough work in reviewing these lights It’s honestly because of your review I went ahead and bought one of thsese
In my thermal test, the body is about 5C or more lower than the head. My unit had the pill tightened down so it does not rattle, even with the body removed. I have to look at this again, as I do not recall mine ever rattling.
I was asking about the Convoy M1 Cree XM-L U2-1B 2-Group 3/5-Mode Flashlight in the forums as I was thinking about getting it. Thanks for the search feature I stumbled upon this review.
After reading this review for the Convoy M1 XM-L T6-3C 2.8A 2-Group 3/5 mode, I decided to go ahead and get one.
Thanks for taking the time for such an in depth review of the light.
I just wanted to make a small addition to this thread.
If anyone is looking for a compact XML2 + sinkpad host, this one is great.
I bought the fasttech M1 host, XML2 U2 1C + sinpad, KD 3040 driver, and additional 7135’s.
Added 4 380mah 7135’s to the driver, so it should give a max of 4.5 Amps.
I mixed up wire when ordering so my + and - wires don’t match, but I have 20 and 24 ga wire going to the Sinkpad.
With an NCR18650PD, this thing is significantly brighter than any P60’s I have. Its a seriously wowser light.
I have a a Vinh 4.5 amp XML U3 drop in I bought at CPF. Doing a ceiling bounce test with that I got 71ish off my bedroom ceiling. A 3.8Amp XML2 unknown bin drop in I made also puts out roughly the same number.
The M1 setup gets 103. Big difference in output. The reflector also seems to give the perfect amount of throw. More focused than a typical XML p60, but still a nice wall of light.
The nice thing is, this light is just a tad bigger than my L2’s, and roughly the same total price.
AWESOME LIGHT.
Hi bdiddle, that thing must get super hot super fast configured like that. WOW! Very cool. I may do something with mine, not sure yet. I don’t like the sag I’m seeing, so a SinkPad may help.
Great mod, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the review JohnnyMac!
I’m most likely getting this light tonight
I consider the high a “turbo”. Still plenty of light on medium.
The brightness levels should be 4.4A - 1.5A - .1A
Really great review, JohnnyMac. 
If you had been given the choice of which emitter you’d get to review, would it still be the T6-3C or a different tint? Do you find it pretty close to neutral white, or slightly cooler/warmer?
Thanks for the review JohnnyMac. Do you know if the solarforce pocket clip will fit on the m1?
Hopefully this light comes out with an option for a neutral xm-l2.
THe Solarforce clip does not fit on the M1 or M2 but it does fit the S3 and likely the S2 as well. The Mx series are more solid than the solarforce lights and the walls a little bit thicker.
Hmm . . . Manafont now sells a "clone" of the M1 dubbed the LusteFire T6-2B. Wonder if it's using a Nanjg driver or something else. I'd buy the proven Convoy of the LusteFire any day though!
-Garry
Yeah, Lustefire now makes an L2 clone as well.
Link to that one?
-Garry
Interesting. I noticed the driver spring is different in the pictures, which makes me think the driver may not be a NANJG or equivalent. Otherwise, this is not just a clone as it has an identical host.