Nah I don’t think it’s wise to dedome this light. The mixed color is already in the very negative range. Why do you need a pink light?
Can be said for majority of posts on here…
I did say it would have ungodly negative duv… I’m tempted…
A dedomed 2700K 519A is around 2200K, not 1800K. I believe an 1800K LED is only achievable with Nichia E17A LEDs which is essentially candlelight.
I’d probably dedome the LEDs since they look so nice with the negative DUVs. I really don’t notice an issue with my dedomed 2700K and 5700K being too rosy. My dedomed 3500K (=2700K) is certainly noticeably rosy, but I still like it more than my 2700K 219B.
I think the extra rosiness with the lower CCTs helps make things appear less dull and yellow.
But perhaps the mix of the dedomed LEDs would be overwhelmingly rosy in the middle CCTs? So it may come down to where you want rosy tint to come from, either at the extreme ends or in the middle.
And just for comparison, here’s the 1800K E17A vs the dedomed 519A 2700K:
1 Thank
thanks for review of 2nd version of S21F.
O, 2nd mode now has ~180 lumen’s instead of ~60 in 1st version, with ~9 hours runtime from fully charged battery. For my taste, it’s better, and closer to “10%” mode.
Can you measure PWM in mixed color mode in 1st-2-3rd modes ?
You guys talked me into trying a s21F out and it is very nice.
I was thinking it would be as bright as my s21D 4500k (8a cc) but it’s not quite.
My main complaint is convoy’s ramping is painfully slow at the top of ramp and feels unresponsive.
2 Thanks
My first batch S21F’s outputs are not different from second batch. I posted the numbers in other thread. As best I could tell both versions measure 140-170 lm in 2nd mode, not 60.
No PWM at 2700k, 5700k, and Turbo 3800k. The rest has PWM.
Yep outputs are U shaped. Highest at either end 2700k and 5700k, and lowest in between - hope this helps you to decide where to set it. I set mine at 5000-5700k.
To compensate Turbo mode @3800k is 2000 lumen and hence a little higher than S21D 519a 4500k and 219b 4500k.
The CCT shifting is actually pretty fast when I measure with Opple while shifting. It helps if you are trying to set to a certain CCT, but I guess doesn’t help if you want to switch CCT quickly.
Tint ramping speed is fine, the brightness isn’t. should be quicker like anduril
1 Thank
Convoy S21F tint ramping with 8A CC driver uses PWM to split the power between two channels
Just thought you might be interested to know. The micro-switch is acting up in my unit, so I took it apart and tried to clean the switch using alcohol. I had a good look at the driver board, sorry I didn’t take any picture because I forgot to do so.
I always wondered how they managed to achieve dual channel and 8A CC together. On other brands a dual channel light would be a FET + linear drivers? In this S21F driver it uses the 8A CC driver and added two MOSFETs downstream to split the power to 2 x 5700k in parallel and 2 x 2700k in parallel.
Essentially in top or bottom of the ramp a single channel receives 100% of 8A power, in the middle each channel receives 50% of the power via PWM. I guess it’s an okay design as PWM gives them high channel splitting efficiency while the single buck driver provides the source of power which is also very efficient. The frequency is high enough to be completely imperceptible.
So here is that. If you want tint ramp with good efficiency, you can have it all. Convoy drivers are well designed, except the UI.
1 Thank
Thank you. I’ve given this much thought also and have also arrived at the conclusion that PWM is used to reduce output during CCT mixing.
One more setting you haven’t mentioned: Turbo, also in the “middle” @ 3800k, but at this point 4 LEDs split the 9A total, and no PWM?
This creates the curious situation wherein 3800k achieved by CCT ramping is very low output, whereas 3800k by double clicking to Turbo has the highest output for this light (2000 lm).
Turbo mode on this light is a separate mode that can’t be achieved by brightness ramping. I suspect what it does is it opens both channel FET’s so it’s essentially 4 emitters in parallel splitting 8A of power, or 2A each. This should result in slight brightness increase. According to 519A’s power-lumen curve, 2A gives 600lm and 4A gives 1000lm. Multiplexing two groups of 2 emitters at 4A each gives you 2000lm combined output (since only one channel is active at any given time, perceived brightness equals to one channel, not two) but a single group of 4 emitters at 2A each should give you 2400lm. I don’t have the equipment to actually verify this theory so if anyone can do it that would be great. A 20% lumen increase is not much, but it’s still an increase nonetheless. This didn’t take into account that 2700K emitters have less lumen output than 5700K ones so it’s purely in theory.
It was my review that had the low measurements on 2/4 brightness.
Mode 2 can’t be 60 lumens. At least not my first batch sample.
I measured it 3 times to make sure. Maybe my sample is faulty (certainly the soldering isn’t great). I’ll test my second batch sample at some point.
I bought one in April and just picked it up today and it will not come on each time. some times it will come on but not change modes can not ramp or turn off once it is on. It seems like it has no connection to the switch since it takes no input other than disconnecting the battery. Has anyone had something similar happen?
TIA chris
1 Thank
Yes, mine developed the same issue 2 weeks after receiving. I had to take it apart and drop some alcohol into the switch and repeatedly pressing it to clean the internal contacts. After that it worked fine. Not a very good experience, especially I got a damaged emitter too. Simon sent me a replacement 519A and I reflowed it on to fix it.
Honestly not really happy about the quality control of this model. All previous orders have been good.
I was going to order the M21H new model but I’m still wary of the QC issues. I will wait for user reviews before I make a decision this time.
2 Thanks
How hard is it to take apart? TIA
C
After second day of usage button stopped working properly just like yours.
1 Thank
Finally found my tool to unscrew the inner ring. But the driver seems to be pushed and blocked between threads. How did you pull it out?
Edit for anyone with similar issues:
Pulling out driver was problematic so with a help from @koef3 (big thanks) I managed to slide tiny flat screwdriver between rubber and blue ring and using a lever pull the blue locking ring out. That revealed the switch inside which I put a drop of electrical sealer/cleaner on and pressed several times for cleaner to go inside the switch. Switch working from now on, no idea for how long though.
But if you are pedantic like me be very careful because there is a very high risk of scratching flashlight.
Also I have been told not to swap lenses or risk damage to the switch and or driver. I must ask then why sell a pack of four various replaceable lenses with diff characteristics?
Is that not gonna cause problems?