I ran across this light by accident, looking for a head lamp. The style/design grabbed me and I jumped on it. So I too will get to try my hand at their Alien Glue. 
Iām a sucker for the different light, the smooth style, the deep thin fins. I knew when I saw this one that I had to have it. When I saw the price I violated my China rules and bought it immediately. First Banggood purchase.
This might be one of very few lights that I donāt modify, weāll see. 
Tried to unscrew the head, mission imposible.
Hmm. Every time Iāve encountered loctite/glued threads I dropped them in boiling water for 5-10 minutes and they came right apart, but it has always been the battery tube and not with the fully assembled headā¦
Think there would be any harm to the led/driver/reflector if it were to undergo 10min of boiling?
If this were to work, I would be willing to sacrifice the driver and or emitter since this is usually what I want to replace anyway. I just donāt want to destroy the housing or reflector to get it apart.
I havenāt ever boiled one before, but if that will get it loose I have no problem sacrificing the driver and emitter to the boiling water. But what about the reflector? Will it come out of the water unscathed? As if I really care about that either, as Iāve had great success polishing a reflector before.
So, whatever it takes, Iāll do it.
Now, I have been thinking about keeping a light in stock form. So if this one performs well without modification it just might be the one in 50 that getās left unmolested. lol
Over the weekend I opened the most difficult light Iāve ever encountered, a small 1x123 fenix, there was SO MUCH glue, I had to boil the head, freeze the head, boil the head, freeze the head over and over again literally 2 whole days before it broke the glue up enough.
I choose this route over a torch cause of the grey anodizing the customer liked most about the light so I didnāt want to risk discoloring it. In the end the old driver works (I wanted to save the driver cause it was a great UI, I was swapping in a tiny10dd and XM-L2 in the light), the emitter probably would of worked but the reflector had some issues, not peeling but no longer perfect (but I was swapping to a TIR anyway so it turned out perfect in the end).
I would consider boiling right up there with using a torch as an absolute last resort, what do you want to destroy, the ano (from flame) or the reflector (from boiling water)?
Hereās the bad part of the reflector now, itās the yellow section from 11 oāclock to 1 oāclock. It was perfect before hand.
I ordered this on June 6th and am impatiently waiting.
Got the cheap C8 with XM-L2 that they had on sale as well.
Both items came up to just under $25 after BLF code, so I did not receive tracking.
Anyway, thanks for the through review. Now I know what to expect.
Love the looks of this light.
Had no idea of actual size as Banggoodās description only says 133mm length, no width given.
I do like the fact that they let you chose tint for no extra charge
If it puts out the 500+ lumens stock, I will just be happy with doing braid mods on the spring and tail cap & fix the tail stand issue and call it a day.
Have enough flame throwers anyway.
Thanks,
Keith
Thatās what I didnāt want to hear since replacement reflectors can sometimes be hard to find.
unknown00101 had a good idea there and something I havenāt considered.
^This^ :-)
@ cereal killer: The ano is not hurt by the flame unless you go to extreme temperatures (like in melting plastic to a runny state). If you ever try "baking" one of your lights with a propane torch you will see that nearly the whole thing has to be unbelievable hot before there is any color change.
@ HI-beam: Just hit it with a big hot flame 5 seconds on each of 4 spots around the side. I did not even damage the red lens O-ring to get mine apart :-) Don't fear the flame :-)
I agree about black ano, (this is the SST-90 C8 I just gave away, it took a TON of heat to change it, applied with an oxy torch) but other colors are much more sensitive, grey and red ano is some of the worst. In my experience grey ano doesnt change at all but will flake right off at anything over ~450F even for just a few moments.
OH! Thank you for the insight (warning ;-) ) I had no clue that would happen. I've not really done much in the way of baking lights. Only did one Jacob A60 to try it out.
But this particular light can take the heat though. No problems at all.
Op updated with driver mod info and lightbox numbers after the mod to the driver and transfer of the emitter to gen II Sinkpad.
Sweet!
Thank you for sharing all your work/testing.
Nice mod, I recognise the effect of the Sinkpad: the whole light being very hot while the emitter just keeps going :-)
The resistor mod also worked better compared to just bridging it like I did, but the modes are a bit funny. I'm going to try yet another resistor value for my X2, see if there is some sort of optimal value that keeps all modes intact.
Did you happen to get a shot straight down into the head with the star removed when you were swapping in the sinkPAD?
Ahh. I knew there was something that I forgot. But I can tell you this Cereal_killer, the surface that the 20mm sinkpad (which can just be shoehorned in there) sits on is non anodized and totally flat like it left the lathe. Obviously it was machined after the head was anodized. Which I like. The surface was so good on my sample I was planning not to polish it, but then I scratched it a little bit and I had to hit it with abrasive paper to get that scratch out again.
Oh and something else I just remembered. I broke both screws that hold down the emitter. The reason they were not holding the emitter down to begin with is that the recess the mcpcb sits in is so low that the edge of the screw head hits the edge of the head. As it turns out they are not really needed since the reflector pushes down hard on the emitter when the head is fully tightened.
@ Djozz. I must say that the original mcpcb was doing the same thing though. The thermal management on this light is definately better than most. Mass + Finns + solid shelf for emitter + matt black ano = great :-) I was surprised I could actually just pick it up after the 5 minute run. It was just sitting still, inside in 18*C ambient , pointed down into the light bucket. If I had to guess at the head temperature then it would be ~65 - 70*C
My X6 arrived today, faster than I expected, it has off-time based memory, not that the stock diver will be around very long but its nice to see more budget lights getting it for people who donāt mod, more importantly the head had no glue what so ever, came apart by hand!
Oh boy, now Iām infinitely more excited about mine. I was dreading having to torch or boil a new lightā¦ā¦ Hoping for an unglued one.
Ok I just measured mine using my external shunt resistor modded DMM and my brand new lumen box.
High = 2.1A
630Lm
13,554Cd
Note Iāve only had a chance to test about 10 stock lights from companies whoās lumen numbers are trustworthy to come up with the formula to convert raw data to lumens however that equation has been right on between all of those lights (including 3 fenixās, 2 foursevensās, 2 zebralightās, an eagletac and an L10) so Iām pretty confident that lumen number is close.
@ C_K: Did you order a cool white or neutral?? (wondering about the lumens measurement diff.)