holy smokes Tom!
that is one heck of a c8 flame thrower you got there! maybe doing that mod to a xintd c8 would be a better option…
hmm… i should have sent you another c8 for the thrower instead of that small sun c10. now my 76kcd smallsun doesnt sound too powerful.
A XinTD is an XML non-standard reflector (threads into pill), so there may be issues there, but one could certainly try with it. An UltraFire C8 host would probably do it as well, just that I had 2 Convoy C8 hosts laying around. I already did about 100 kcd on a C8 pill that's in a LightMalls C8 now with a de-domed XM-L2 T6 0D, so the XP-G2 results are not surprising. De-doming usually doubles the kcd.
Some review of KD c8 xm-l2 U2? (and/or VS convoy C8 xm-l U2 2.8 amp)
But happy for you, I shoudda got the lightmall zml2 maybe I can talk Mr.Tom E into helping me out for a fee?
I have the KD C8 xml U2 copper pill andKDC8 xml2 and I ordered Fasttech Convoy C8 xml U2 along with a pair of panasonic 18650 3400mAh for a friend.
Finish is better with the Convoy C8, but I am disappointed with the reflector. The spill is all over the place. Not good.
Lanyard of Convoy C8 is better than KDC8.
The reflector of both the KDC8 SMO and OP throws much better than the Convoy C8 sample I received.
I would recommend the KDC8 over the Convoy C8 just because of the reflector. When I put the KD C8 reflector in the Convoy, it rattles a bit in the convoy no idea why.
Convoy C8 as host is good, but get the KDC8 if you do not want any suprise…. Convoy is cheeper than KD tho…
Is a single mode light brighter than a multi function light with same emitter and battery?
Is a single mode light brighter than a multi function light with same emitter and battery?
The answer to your question would also depend on what driver is in each of the lights.
Identical driver, emitter A, batteries etc.
No, same brightness - Hi mode is pretty much always 100%, so as long as the driver design is the same between the two, amp regulation (or lack thereof) is the same, so should get same output. If they are different driver designs, well, anything is possible - could be worse or better.
Hi Flashpilot, thanks for posting your informative review. I have a similar light, the Wf-501b Cree Xm-l T6. It works great as an inexpensive/lightweight/compact light for night time mountain biking. I velcro one to my helmet for seeing farther around corners cornering and the other I have on my bars for visual depth perception/shadow casting.
I was wondering if you or others in the group had an opinion about the best ways to get around the problem of the handlebar-mounted light auto-cycling through its modes. It drives me crazy when the light goes into strobe mode on rocky singletrack when I can’t take a hand off the bars to correct it. It’s the vibration that causes the problem.
As mounts I have tried a rigid plastic rotating clip which works OK…
http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Flashlight-Holder-rotation-Cycling/dp/B00ADLUDSA/ref=pd_sim_sg_2
… and a tremendously versatile silicone band, which I love:
http://www.amazon.com/Cycling-Bicycle-Silicone-Flashlight-Ribbon/dp/B00CBT76TG/ref=pd_sim_sg_3
I have not yet tried adding a damper to the setup, which I could easily do with the the silicone band. But I’m still not sure this would solve the problem when hitting larger obstacles like water bars, so I’m thinking more of reducing the number of modes, since I never use the flashing modes anyhow.
I don’t wish to go to a single-mode light, because often I need the lights for more than two hours, and the Medium setting is fine for everything but the most technical singletrack.
I’m not really set up to modify the lights, since I don’t even own a soldering iron, so was thinking about purchasing a 2-mode light, maybe the A9-T60 CREE XM-L-T6 2-Mode.
I’ve been mountain biking for years but never invested in the expensive lights needed for off-road riding, so now I find myself a noob in this field and welcome any suggestions or advice you or others might offer.
Hi PabloS,
Probably the best deal offered today in the versatility of a quality and reliable bike/flashlight is the Convoy C8. For bike ridding, I would recommend one with an orange peel reflector and cold white tint. The driver in this one is driven at a confirmed 2.8A, has two mode groups to enable h/m/l only and comes with low voltage warning. They also handle the long Panasonic NCR1865B cells if necessary. They never change modes on their own when going over bumps because the driver requires two button presses after 1 second to change modes. All Convoys have positive reviews because they are well built. If you later find that you require a wider viewing angle, replace the lens for one of these. They work VERY well in the C8. Always use quality cells to make your flashlights perform well. Chinese made cells are almost always junk.
Also, a short sold mount with a low center of gravity will be far more stable. I use these on all of my bikes because they have proven to be better than any other mount I have yet to try for single 18650 flashlights. Buy 2 - one for each side so you can carry 2 flashlights. Keep them mounted as close to the goose neck as possible.
If you’re going to be cycling in areas without ambient light, always carry 2 lights in case one goes out. Its very rare, but there have been times I wouldnt have made it home without having a second light to save me.
Good advice fp !! I got to order a couple of those lenses and bike mounts...
lens may be a little cheaper here, depending on shipping: http://www.action-led-lights.com/collections/accessories/products/wide-angle-lens
the convoy for bike that flashpilot say i have the same collors and reflector on a convoy m1 its very good.
Thanks FlashPilot, that’s great info. Much appreciated!
What caused the outage? Was it dead battery, or vibration related failure, or ….?
The sudden death list:
Im sure there have been many others. Arent you happy you asked? lol
Bike riding can impose extreme repeated high G impacts on equipment. When a light goes out, I immediately switch it off and check for a warming condition of the battery tube. If its not hot, I remove the cell as fast as I can before it might have a chance to fail. Hopefully, a quality protected cell would protect you from a dead short scenario, but dont count on it; regardless of what others might tell you. You might be dealing with components that have been pounded to hell and back, which can change their performance envelopes.
Many of my lights are modded for high current, so many protection circuits will not handle my personal demands. Those lights require unprotected cells. On one occasion, a light failed and the battery tube burned my hand when I touched it. I plucked it from the mount and threw it 50 feet in front of me to gain some distance. It smoked and sizzled then blew out the tail cap boot, melted the coating off the reflector and tarnished all the anodizing, turning it from black to an ugly orange color. Even the silicon o-rings turned into a sticky goo. Those were the days when I rode with junky flashlights for bike lights… no more of that!
The Convoy C8 supports the cell with spring pressure at both ends. The driver spring is short and very robust so it will likely never fail during severe impacts. Of course there are always exceptions. If you ride and have impacts, anticipate failures. Just take steps to protect yourself first and come prepared. Thoroughly inspect your equipment before each ride and stay within cell phone range in case you need assistance.
Night time bike ridding brings new life into an old sport and its a great way to share with friends. Have fun and enjoy! :bigsmile:
Great response Flashpilot, thanks! The list of potential equipment failures is impressive, and very helpful. My concerns about the effects of vibration transferred through the handlebars are now reinforced. And thanks too for the sobering anecdote about the exploding light. In my case, something like this could have serious consequences for a light unit mounted on the handlebars four inches from my hand, and with an end-cap pointed back only a foot from my upper thigh. Maybe I will start wearing full-fingered gloves in case I need to quickly remove a dangerously-overheating light.
What damage signs would you suggest I look for in a pre-ride inspection? Coil spring deformation seems an obvious one, and maybe cracks/disintegration in solder joints and circuit panels… but what else, surely not burn marks?
Vibration problems with the handlebar-mounted light continue. I obtained the Convoy C8 light you recommended, but maybe they have changed the switch mechanism since you purchased yours. My model changes mode with a light/quick single touch of the button. And out on the trail, it changes mode with each bump. It’s a great light though, and will make a very nice, inexpensive gift to a friend. I also purchased the Ultrafire A9-T60, a 2-mode light which I’ve not yet tested on a night ride, but will do so soon.
I have tried a couple of different methods of damping shock from the handlebars, namely: additional silicone padding and foam cell padding using 1/2” foam cell. Neither of these made a difference to the rattling I can hear from within the light, or to the involuntary mode shifts. The trails in Marin County are very rocky and my forks are rigid. Putting a pair of shock-absorbing forks on the bike would solve the problem, but I’m not going to do that.
So for me the quest continues to find a light that will function as I desire in high vibration conditions. The Ultrafire A9-T60 might prove to be satisfactory, but I won’t know until I’ve tested it on a night ride.
Also I will take your advice of carefully checking the equipment for stress-related mechanical failures. It seems that will be an important safety check to add to the list.
Here’s a few things to check, but please read to the end before disassembling your light:
Exactly which cells are you using? I wonder if they are to short to make proper contact with the spring ends. Its very unlikely but worth checking. When you shake the light, can you feel the battery rattling inside? If so, from top to bottom or width wise… or both? If its rattling top to bottom, buy longer batteries, or you can remove the battery tube and VERY carefully pull on the driver spring with needle nosed pliers to stretch it. Its a tough steel spring and not easy to stretch, so be very careful if you attempt this. You could easily rip the board its mounted to and yank the spring off, so be careful. If it rattles side to side, a wrap of electrical tape at the top and bottom of the cell will provide a tighter fit inside the tube.
Other things to check:
Remove the battery tube from your convoy. Remove the bezel, lens and reflector. These can be removed as a single assembly and be kept together to eliminate any dust from entering. Looking at the bare emitter, assure there is a small white plastic donut (reflector centering ring) surrounding the emitter. The emitter star board is mounted on a screw-in threaded aluminum piece we call the “pill”. The pill in this light has a hole to each side where it is tightened from the front and screws into the head. Take a pair of sharp needle nosed pliers, insert the points into the holes and twist clockwise to assure the pill is well tightened into the head. Make sure the plastic donut centering ring didnt fall out and reassemble your light.
The tail cap has the same 2-hole type design retaining the switch assembly. Make sure it is also tight by using your needle nosed pliers. If the clicky button still changes modes to easily, remove the 2-hole retaining ring and completely disassemble the tail cap. Remove the rubber tail boot and turn it inside out. You will see a rubber nub extending out that makes contact with the switch. Take a flat razor blade and remove aprox 1-2 mm off the nub to shorten it. Assure each spring end is clean and the inside of the brass plunger is also clean. You can clean it with a swap and rubbing alcohol, gin or vodka. Reassemble and try again. Repeat trimming the nub if necessary so that very little resting pressure is felt through the rubber tail boot. Ideally, the nub should just touch the switch but not exert any pressure.
You can check out Relics excellent C8 convoy review here for reference.
More helpful info, thank you. My batteries are Panasonic NCR18650Bs. The fit is very solid inside the Convoy, with no side or lengthways rattling. With the UltraFire it is not quite so snug. About 2.25 wraps of electrical tape the batteries fixed that. I will try the tail boot trim you suggest on these lights and will let you know how it goes. There might be a couple of weeks’ time gap though, since it has finally (thankfully) started raining here in the Bay Area. The trails are wet now and another week’s rain is forecase. Once they’ve dried out I’ll get back on the mixed-surface bike.