Ordered mine on 10/31, it shipped on 11/9 and according to tracking it just went through the HK sorting facility on 11/13. At least with HK mail it should get the rest of the way much faster than it would with China Post.
I'm sure you just made me to buy it.
Hi, just to add to the info here, I got one that looks just like Benckie's ( green clicky, brass pill ). I don't have a multimeter, but after 15 min on high, the torch is warm but definitely not hot. ( can grip tightly at warmest spot ). I have the pink 2600ma XSL ultrafires. Also, I got one of the 501b torches (XML U2 bin led) at the same time, and the two are relatively close in brightness, which I'm pretty sure they shouldn't be. The 501 is most likely driven at something like 1.4a from what i've read.
You might find you KD C8 is around 1.5 amps at most like mine after fixing it and the brass pill I had only had a 2 amp driver in it and the replacement driver KD sent me was only a 2 amps driver, so I don't know how people are getting above 2 amps with the ones like ours unless the drivers are faulty and going direct drive.
I got my $17 KD C8 yesterday. I'm less than impressed with it. Something wrong with the switch, it flickers or doesn't fire up if the tail is tightened all the way. If loosened for a quarter round, it works better, but not 100% even then. Tightening the switchboard didn't help. Driven at 2,6 amps max. It does give more lux than 1,5 amp-driven Quark Turbo-X with the same emitter, but outside in the real world the difference is much smaller than on paper. With some switch tuning and perhaps reflashed 2,8 amp driver it could be very good light. Out of box... I'll give it thumb down.
I got mine.Getting 2 amp. Loose pill. When screwed fully in the lens is loose.Seems to be the same as a lot of c8's that are going around. I like the brass pill.
Mine is waiting for me at the post office.. they will come and bring it tomorrow night.. no need to go to the post office!
Mine just arrived an hour ago.
It's the S009844 model that was reduced in price before.
Tried it and immediately noticed it wasn't as bright as expected.
Did some tailcap readings with a TF Flame: H/M/L = 2.12A / 1A / 0.1A
The pill is tightened well, the threads are bone-dry
For 16.99 it's alright, but it won't win any prizes.
Same here ... maybe an O-Ring under the brass pill edge would help to raise it a little. Deliberately loosening the pill half a turn fixed it for now. Mine is pulling 2.2-2.3 on high (Xtars 2.6er) . It is over a 1 cm shorter than C8 Q5 from that infamous Ebay auction and tailswitch threads are considerably rougher even after lubing them, reflector is considerably deeper on the Q5 and bezels are not interchangeable. The tint is very nice on mine (warmer), better than the Manafont 3-mode drop-in. No UF or other brand markings whatsoever. Not bad overall for the price paid, but not a "must get" either... I don't regret buying it.
Better solution is to use thicker o-ring on lens with pill fully screwed down to enhance thermal transfer (adding thermal paste is recommended). I solved the same problem with 42/2mm o-ring instead original one. I even tried 42/2.5mm and it still fits fine.
this does not sound like the fantastic KD C8 that so many gave rave reviews, the one for around $25. I'm not happy to hear this as mine is on the way. I was suspicious when I saw the price of it reduced to $16.99 but had to take a chance. When will I wise up....
Mine arrived today. Why is that so exciting?
I'm fairly new at this stuff, so. I popped a Trustfire 18650 unprotected in it. The cell measured 4.09V I have another on the charger as I write. What reading should one get at the tailcap switch with a fully charged cell? Is that a dumb question? With my 4.09V cell I got a reading of 1.27 Is that good, or bad? I agree with Vortex in that it is not as bright as what I read about. Appears to be only a bit brighter than my Xeno EO3 on a 14500. Has a bigger hot spot though. The build is nice, no markings on it at all. Switch feels good. Nice glass lens and good OP reflector. Emitter looks off center a tad. I don't feel it's quite the light that people raved about, maybe KD switched from that one to this $16.99 model. But I am quite happy with this light for the price. One of my better lights. Wish someone would post pictures or beamshots or a review, maybe someone who got the earlier version and this cheaper one. Whatever.
I realize the thread is 500 posts long....here are my "clif notes": ( i believe there are numerous 'reviews' if you just read through it all )
- Most ( 90% or better? ) people are getting 2.4+ amps at the tail cap.
- Many people have loose pills etc, those problems are relatively easy to fix.
- A few unlucky souls (benckie, my self, a few others - you might very well be included ) seem to have got a version that only puts out about 1.5a (roughly).
- batteries do seem to affect output, but not enough to explain almost a halving of amperage.
I think the best test ( no need to argue over wire size/multimeters etc) is the "heat" test -- how hot does it get in 15 minutes on high? If its HOT, then you got a good one. If its warm .... you lost the lottery. ( I think this is a theme when ordering from DX, KD, etc ) Oh, and a warning: some might say that running on high w/out airflow could be dangerous for the led if you did get a good one...just sayin', don't come crying back if you fry your led!
Make sure you have it on high too - its very easy to click to the next mode with just a slight tap.
best of luck
Got three of these $16.99 lights today. Noticed some variance.
#1: GITD switch, GITD O-ring on lens, 2.2A on high
#2 & #3: Black switch, black O-ring on lens, 2.6A on high (same for both)
All of them had loose pills, can't tighten fully or the lens rattles (~1mm free play). Emitters were quite well centered. No markings in the body in any of them.
Not bad for $16.99, but not as good as the "original" $25 light either.
My lens does not rattle any more? I unscrewed the pill and then screwed it back in. Now it does not rattle. I am not sure why but I am happy. I get 2.5 a (xtar)with short leads.Battery was 4.01 v. You can get higher amp readings if battery is not fully charged.I cant see any difference to the original apart from the brass pill.I just got 2.6 on a panasonic 3100 4.10v.
I think I need to get some new test leads.. Mine only draws 1.7A
I have 2 cheap sets of test leads, and the other set is even worse. With my Solarforce L2 and XML 1 set only showed 1A, while the other set showed 1.5-1.7
Now I would like to know if it is just the leads, or if it the C8 is just not much brighter (except brighter hotspot) than my solarforce L2.....
anybody knows "cheap" good leads on Ebay?
Christmas presents
All were unmarked with black tailcaps. 2.0A to 2.2A at the tailcap with a Tenergy 2600. My ghetto 502B XML from DD is pulling 2.5A with the same battery/meter/leads.
This might stop the lens rattle if people still have it, it is a tad taller then my trustfrie C8 and old KD C8 reflectors
I just got my KD C8 and I was comparing it to the Keygos KE-2 and the KE-5 and they both were out throwing and brighter. So I was reading on here and I went through some of my lights and switched out the reflector with a smooth. I didn't go back outside but it made a huge difference in the size of the hot spot and before you could hardly tell there was a hot spot it looked like all flood. Now I'm excited with the KD C8. Does anyone know a smooth reflector that's made for this so I can put my other light back together. Thanks for every ones tips.