ZeroAir compares all the lights he reviews against a BLF 348 w/a 219B sw45k which is basically the rosiest emitter that exists, and which normally clock north of 4500K, so making 4000K nominal emitters look warmer and more greenish/yellow than you’d perceive them as in most circumstances.
This is a good thing IMO since sw45k is like the peak of tint for many people that value rosiness.
I did this small test on video to show the stepdown on the Lumintop FWAA in the first minute.
The version used is the Nichia 5000K, and the flashlight was powered by a Vapcell H10 battery at 4.20V.
The thermal stepdown configurations are default, which means they are set for 45ºC according to user manual.
The stepdown is gradual from the start, with an accetuate drop within the 20-25s and then at around 47s the output stabilizes.
The temperature I measured with a IR thermometer was at around 41ºC, after 45s.
I used a luxmeter configured to Lux for demonstration purpose only, so please do not extrapolate numbers from this demonstration. The flashlight was at 1m from the luxmeter.
I wonder if the 219c 4000k is really as pink as these pics show. When the FW3A came out, I saw some beam shots with this emitter that looks very rosy. Needless to say, I bought it right away only to find out the tint is very green like the usual 219c 4000k. It was definitely more green than the SST-20 4000k version
I bought both of the 4000ks but I'm having a brain warp trying to put pics on the site. In my eyes the Nichia was rosier but they are both great tints.
thanks for the report
I really think it depends on what its being compared to
I would welcome a photo of your 4000k 219c next to an sw45k…
another reason to jump on the Bundle w the SST-20 on Neals site…
you are not making this any easier for me to resist… LOL
however, your comment is the exact opposite of what the photo by Ledhead shows…
confusion abounds…
show me the pictures… lol
I see the slight pink you mean, and Im pretty sure that is only in relation to the specific LED it is being compared to.
This is a comparison against a Nichia 219B 4000k (not sure what the reference is) from the Tool Ti AAA modded by CRX (on the right in each photo).
And you may be right jon_slider, in person it may look yellow when people get it, but the rosy is still there, maybe not as much exaggerated as the photos show it
The 219C 4000K FW3A I bought measured 4022K, DUV 0.0058, CRI 90.3 at top of ramp
The SST20 4000K FW3A measured 3975, DUV –0.0003, CRI 95.6 at top of ramp
At lower output they are even more green. That’s why I was so disappointed because the pics I saw of the 219C were rosy. I’m wondering if Lumintop have different batches of the 219C.
Even the SST20 4000K is not that nice. It was the FD2 bin whereas Fireflies uses the FA3 tint bin that is a good bit rosier. Fireflies was recently able to procure the even rossier FA4 tint bin. I’m wondering which tint bin is Lumintop using now. I really want to know before the group buy coupons expire.
I’m talking about the FW3A I bought when it first came out. Not the FW3AA. I’m contemplating on whether to buy the FW3AA 219c 4000k because I’m afraid it would turn out the same with the high DUV.
I went for some new tests with the batteries I mentioned that were not working in mine flashlights (Vapcell Gold and Vapcell H10, both unprotected button top).
I also measured the inner tubes of both flashlights:
4000K host: 54.51mm
5000K host: 54.54mm
After this I put the cells in each flashlight, well tight, and guess what? They worked !
BUT the springs on each driver, due to the button top, suffered slight bents!
So, I would still advise NOT to use (long) button top batteries that exceed the recommended length. As comparison, the other button top that worked without length issues was the Sofirn cell, which measures ~48mm.