I think the same 7H that got you into temp setting, but wait for second blink
this guy explains ater the 11:30 mark
Check my post 93 above, maybe it helps! The manual shows 1 thing while the practical implementation seems a bit different.
Check if the post helps, please!
After the first buzz, you should have a second one and the make that confitguration.
I had to make a factory reset because initially I was only getting 1 buzz.
I had the same issue with that, as well as setting ramps. What I found was after setting the first segment, I had to restart the configuration sequence, wait for the initial prompt to advance, then continue the steps to configure the second set of parameters, etc… YMMV. Because this little booger gets so hot in a hurry, I was more concerned with setting the baseline temp accurately. I left the ceiling at whatever the default is in Anduril 2. I doubt maxing out the step down would give more than a few additional seconds of continuous turbo. Not worth it to me.
I enjoy the light, and the Nichia 4000K is nice, but it’s a one and done for me. Not enough mass for heat management with 3 emitters, and it eats battery. I would never consider it for EDC. It’s a novelty. Again, JMO.
I respect your experience
I dont have one, so this is just me thinking out loud… let me know if Im being unrealistic
afaict
the UI can be configured to a more sustainable output
for example, it can be set up to emulate Turbo on an HDS, which is 250 lumens.
that would solve overheating issues, and increase runtime…
the low output would be useful for an indoor task light, thanks to the floody beam…
I dont think floody and EDC go together… floody is a special use beam, for close range, at what I call “indoor” distances.
Ouch!
Defect detected in one of my FWAAs today.
I noticed that in my SST-20 FWAA only 2 of the 3 emitters were lighting up. This unit had just arrived a few days ago and I have never opened the head. When it first arrived it functioned normally and all 3 emitters lit up.
I opened the head and tried reflowing the LED that wasn’t working. Unfortunately, that did not fix it.
I removed the LED from the star and tried it in a different star and it worked. So the problem was the star not the LED.
Checking the pads under the non-functioning LED I discovered the +pad under that led did not have electrical connection to the the +driver wire pad.
I examined the star closer and noticed a crack going through the mask on the pad. Perhaps someone had accidentally cut the star with something sharp during assembly. I figured this crack was preventing connection to that one LED. I’m not sure why the light worked a few days ago and didn’t work now. Perhaps expansion of the star when the light was run was enough to expand the crack to the point where connection was no longer made.
I scraped a bit of the mask off next to the positive pad of the non-functioning LED and soldered a jumper wire between it and the +driver wire pad. That fixed it. Now all 3 LEDs function again.
However, there is a very slight reduction in output under that one LED caused by my 22 aug jumper wire pressing against the side of the optic. There isn’t much space in there and I didn’t have thinner wire available. I might be able to fix that later by changing the jumper location. Perhaps scrape off a bit of the mask over the crack and solder a much smaller wire there that won’t touch the optic.
You are not being unrealistic at all, jon. I understand the UI allows for personal customization…a great benefit, but I look at it from a turnkey perspective. The FWAA was marketed and promoted as a phenom 14500 platform, providing ground breaking performance in a heretofore unavailable size factor, and far be it for me to say that hasn’t been accomplished with this light. I’m just as impressed with it as most, but like most things the more familiar I become, the more evident the limitations.
Thank you for the configuration suggestions. I will definitely explore the options.
I hope you get a free replacement, and get to keep the damaged one, for your trouble
from looking at info in the zeroair FWAA review,
in Simple UI, his FWAA seems to average about 600 lumens for about 35 minutes
I agree that is too short a fuse…
here is a runtime plot showing half the lumens gives double the runtime, achieving a more reaslistic 75 minute runtime, from a more realistic output of about 300 lumens:
pic links to the review… recommended
Does the FWAA use the same driver power levels for the Nichia version as for the SST-20 version…?
iow, can I mod an SST FWAA to Nichia, without concern about overpowering the Nichia LEDs?
I believe the driver is the same.
Also Nichia 219C is quite tolerant of high currents. I’ve had no problems even in 18650 fights of swapping 219C with SST20, LH351D, or XPL HI. They all seem interchangeable.
thank you
I would want to use 219b…
219B would probably work fine.
I’ve used 219B in triples with 18650s and they worked and the LEDs didn’t burn out. I tended not to run them for long periods of time though.
The FWAA uses a much smaller 14500 cell. To reduce current just get a lower current cell. Instead of a Vapcell H10, maybe go with a Vapcell L10 or a Vapcell gold.
very helpful
I dont plan to use Hot output levels
I ordered the Vapcell H10 as part of the sapphire lens bundle with a Full Copper FWAA…
Laissez les bon temps rouler!
this will be my first 14500 experience… and first Anduril light
I may add to my battery options by buying a
Shockli 14500 AA 1000mAh (Black)
that should fit in both the Tool AA I have, and the FWAA I ordered, while reducing the max output…
am also reading up on how to change the ceiling level. will be entertained for a while… 
Hope you like the light. The FWAA is tiny for a 14500 light. It’s the same width but slightly shorter than an Eagletac D25C. It’s slightly wider than a Lumintop Tool AA 2.0, but much shorter.
That said, the FWAA does have limitations. The optic is tiny and the front of the optic is frosted. As expected from such a setup, the FWAA produces a wall of light with minimal throw.
I expect Lumintop will make an FW1AA version with a single emitter and reflector. Such a setup would make for a slightly longer light, but would probably be a bit more practical.
maybe as the marketing progresses, we will gain access to a narrow clear lens, without the frosting:
if I could buy a spare lens, I would try polishing one…
Or we could push for a fw1aa 
And, not Or
I’ve heard the single emitter version is under testing.
Well this is great news. My first Al triple version is coming this week. Would’ve held off had I known this
Just received my FWAA Copper SST-20 4000k
First impressions… wow, thats tiny… The LED does not seem “too” green, quite nice as a single source. Of course compared to an sw45k the SST is not pink at all, but the SST has a nice golden color.
the light worked fine out of the box, the tailcap was very tight. The retaining ring in the head was loose… now tight
a few more photos:
my first foray into reprogramming:
I set thermal step down to 31C,
and calibrated the Thermal sensor to my ambient temp.
I confirmed the light is limiting head temperature to the specified temp, with my IR thermometer
The copper host heats up very evenly, quite pleasant in fact… Hotter at the head, but dissipates into the rest of the body, very evenly. Feels good in hand.
initial output tests
Simple mode
default minimum is 3 lumens
ceiling is about 580 lumens which quickly drops and settles around 90 lumens sustained
advanced mode:
minimum is 0.1 lumens
maximum is about 1150 initial lumens on my meter
battery check is very accurate, maybe reads 0.1v low, which is fine
battery is charging, using an Olight Universal USB charger the max charge rate is slightly below 1C at about 800mA, which tapers down to about 170mA as the charge passes 4.1v
I turn the light on by press hold, so it ramps up from the floor. This works well.
I can see how this UI would be a problem in pocket activation, as leaning on the button makes it ramp up. I would definitely recommend using Lockout to avoid HotPockets.
The switch is easy to use, the O ring mod may follow to make it a bit higher resistance. Took the pocket clip off…
The FWAA is a fun little light, weighs 88 grams loaded, the AA Tool weighs almost exactly the same, 89grm w eneloop. The AAA Tool weighs about half as much, 46grams w eneloop.
I like the little FWAA form factor a lot… Am tempted to buy a Ti version for the weight reduction…
Has anyone modded a pocket clip
Or found a better one for this light?