[Review] Manker E05 II – nice 14500/AA EDC flashlight with mechanical tailswitch

Looking for a simple EDC flashlight? The new Manker E05 II could be the right choice for you! Support for Li-ion and NiMH batteries, mechanical tail switch and three levels of brightness, in multiple materials and colors as well.

You can find the German version of this review on my website: SammysHP Blog › Manker E05 II

I’ve got this flashlight from flashlightgo for free in return for a review. Thank you very much!


Supplied parts and hardware

You have the choice between five body colors: black, green, silver, sand and red. There are also versions in copper and titanium. If you want, you can also get two optional diffusers in white and red.

  • 14500 Li-ion battery with 920 mAh (3.40 V at arrival)
  • Lanyard
  • Replacement o-ring
  • Clip (attached)
  • USB-C cable
  • Red and white diffuser (optional)
  • Manual (EN, CN)

Length: 92 mm
Diameter: 20 mm
Weight: 42 g (plus 21 g for the battery)

Wurkkos TS10 | Acebeam TAC AA | Manker E05 II | ThruNite Archer Pro | Skilhunt H150

The minimal crenelation on the head is enough to see if the flashlight is turned on when standing on its head. The chamfer makes it easier to put into your pocket.

The recessed tail switch allows you to add a small tritium tube (1.5 × 6 mm).

The clip is mounted with a single screw which is glued very well. You need some force to unscrew it and remove the clip. The hole in the clip for the screwdriver can be used to attach a lanyard.

I like the clip. It has a large opening, making it easy to insert the first centimeter of the fabric. Then a gentle push and it sits deep inside of your pocket. Very nice.

While the flashlight has no charging port itself, the battery can be charged directly via its USB-C port. I’m pretty sure it’s the same battery as the Acebeam ARC14500, which I reviewed recently.

Small button at the driver side, with a mechanical reverse polarity protection pin next to it. This limits the battery choice to button top batteries. Either 14500 Li-ion or AA NiMH, alkaline or lithium primary.

The other side has a spring.

The tailcap is glued to the tube very well and required a lot of force to unscrew. This allowed me to get a closer look at the tail switch. It has a spring to tension the cap of the switch, so it doesn’t wiggle around when switched on.

I’m a little concerned about the waterproofing. There’s no silicone membrane, it relies on a little bit of oil around the cap. While this might work for a static scenario, actuating the switch under water or with a very wet light will pump water into the inside of the light. Still they rated it as IPX8.

Overall the manufacturing quality is very nice, except for the missing sealing around the switch.

User interface and features

There are three levels of brightness (low, medium and high) and a strobe (20 Hz with 50% duty cycle). This allows for a very simple UI with the mechanical tail switch. It’s a forward clicky, meaning that the light turns on when you half press it. This makes momentary light possible.

Tap the switch until you have the desired level, then fully press it. Or turn the light off and on quickly to advance the mode. After the light was off for two seconds or more, it starts in the previously used brightness again. A double tap gives you strobe.

The high rim around the switch protects it well from accidental activation. It also has to be pressed deeply with some force. Nice! For another level of protection, slightly loosen the head for mechanical lockout. But be careful, the threads only have 1¾ turns.

Even without knurling the E05 II can be held securely due to it’s waist. Works great in tactical and cigar grip. Of course the position of the switch makes it easy to find.

I miss a battery indicator because with the good regulation you only notice the battery is empty when it is really empty and the light turns off.


At the beginning the E05 II was available only with a not further specified cool white LED. I’m pretty sure it’s a San’an SFQ43. This is also the version I got for my review. Shortly after Manker introduced a version with Nichia 519A. Even without having tested it, just get the Nichia variant.

  • Cool white (6500 K): Probably San’an SFQ43, low CRI. Maximum brightness specified with 1300 lm.
  • Neutral white (4000 K): Nichia 519A, high CRI, very nice light, but specified only 800 instead of 1300 lm.

The light has a deep, orange peel textured reflector and creates a bright and large spot with a less pronounced spill. The glass has a “magenta” anti-reflective coating.

It’s a very nice universal beam, good for some distance, but also at short range indoors.

Driver and runtime

Of course the maximum brightness of 1300 lm (or 800 lm for the Nichia variant) is only achieved for a short time. But afterwards the brightness stays mostly constant – for NiMH and Li-ion batteries!

Mode Brightness¹ Runtime¹ Intensity¹ (Throw²) Current³
Li-Ion – High 1300 / 300 / 8 lm 2 min + 1 h + 4 h 5476 cd (148 m) 4.05 A
Li-Ion – Medium 300 / 8 lm 1:30 h + 3:50 h 0.58 A
Li-Ion – Low 8 lm 50 h 0.06 A
NiMH – High 420 / 100 / 1.5 lm 2 min + 2 h + 30 min 1806 cd (85 m) 4.20 A
NiMH – Medium 100 / 1.5 lm 1:50 h + 3:08 h 0.72 A
NiMH – Low 1.5 lm 27 h 0.08 A

¹ According to manufacturer      ² ANSI FL1      ³ Measured

The difference between low and medium is perceived higher than from medium to high.

[Li-ion only]        [NiMH only]

With a lab power supply the LVP kicked in at 2.69 V (Li-Ion) and 0.90 V (NiMH). Due to the voltage drop of the batteries under load the final voltage in my runtime tests was a little higher at 3.25 V and 1.14 V. Be careful with NiMH batteries because the light still draws 14 mA after it turned off automatically.

There’s no PWM, just some ripple. This means they likely use a switching regulator for both types of batteries. Here’s a measurement with Li-ion at medium level.


The Manker E05 II is a compact EDC flashlight, supporting Li-ion and NiMH batteries. It has three levels of brightness with constant output for most of the runtime. The mechanical tail switch makes it easy to use.

Waterproofing of the switch is a little questionable, though. Better don’t try to press it under water.

You can get the flashlight in various colors and materials. You even have the choice between different LEDs (get the Nichia 519A version).

Got curious? Get the Manker E05 II here at flashlightgo.

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Thanks for the test,
That’s quite a powerful driver, constant current with both chemistries which is very nice.
I’m curious about the components used, any plan to do a teardown ?

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Shame about mode memory. At least strobe is hidden now compared to the first version. I dislike forward clicky, too.

Oh well, Reylight has already perfected the form factor imo

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This is an excellent light.

I’m curious as well, but thinking about the amount of force it required to remove the tailcap, I don’t think I can unscrew the driver retaining ring without the risk of damaging it. The main components I can see at the accessible side of the driver are:

  • 60P20Q (???)
  • A5SHB (P-FET)
  • AXMR (?) SOT-23-5 with a little inductor next to it

It looks like there is a solder joint, so maybe the retaining ring isn’t glued.

No solder joint. But when I slip with the snap ring pliers it goes right to the little inductor. I can print a tool, maybe next weekend.

Ah, I thought the thing where the soldermask is removed was a joint, guess not.

Probably few floors pcb? 4A buck&boost in this format looks really interesting.(if it is true)

I managed to knock one or two components off while trying to use snap ring pliers to unscrew the retaining ring on a green E05II.

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Does it still work?

It does. I might have knocked off one capacitor or a resistor.

Question is: Have you been successful and were you able to remove the driver and take some pictures of it?

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Yes. There is glue on the retaining ring and the copper pill threads.

I used a SmallRig clamp, circlip pliers and a Camera Spanner Wrench.


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Impressive component population and… dirty corrosion .

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Thanks a lot for the teardown Tim.

So it looks like a cascaded boost+buck circuit like I’ve used before.
There is constant voltage boost converter : the M3WD with the 2020 FET next to it and a diode so unfortunately it’s asynchronous i.e. not super efficient.
Followed by a buck converter using the MP2145, a 6A synchronous buck converter with good specs (also used in Convoy buck drivers), with the necessary circuitry for constant current regulation.

On the back there is another converter, likely boost for powering the MCU, why not directly with the main CV boost, maybe because it can’t startup at AA voltage.

There’s a 3333 FET on the back, no idea what it’s for.

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Does that mean it could potentially be more efficient on Li-ion since the inefficient async boost wouldn’t be required?

Any idea how the efficiency is affected if it’s just passing through an async boost but no voltage boost happening?

Unless there is a bypass, no, as the current would still passes through the diode. But that 3333 FET might actually be the boost bypass, can’t see any of the traces, but it’s in the right place for that purpose, in that case the efficiency on li-ion would be excellent.

Edit : yeah pretty sure now it’s the bypass.

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