Hi all…
…and Budda, thank you for a very nice report.
I would just like to throw in in som numbers, just for your information, on buttom top batteried that I have mesured:
AW IMR 2200 mAh - 65.84 mm (buttom top)
ORBTRONIC ORB25 2500 mAh - 66.78 mm (buttom top)
LG HE4 2500 mAh - 66.81 mm (buttom top)
LG HG2 3000 mAh - 66.82 mm (buttom top)
EFEST 2500 mAh - 67.16 mm (buttom top)
Samsung 25R 2500 mAh - 65.09 mm (FLAT TOP)
Regarding the 8000 vs 6850 lumens: I can’t wait to see what other reviewers will measure
I think the problem is that the output is nose diving. That’s one reason you will get different values. And depending on the battery you will get a different output on turbo as well, or not?
Thanks for the review. Is the tint of the XP-G3´s really that bad? That looks terrible, specially the tint shift from spot to spill…
waiting for the Nichia version review … but after reading all the battery and quality problems I think I will definitely pass on this one. Shame, could have been a nice light for a reasonable price.
K.
Of course you can say that the light is too big - too small - too complicated - too picky on batteries. I for example said that it is too cool for me even in the nichia version.
But any subject of personal taste can’t be judged.
I don’t see any quality problems on mine.
As far as I know this is the only review available. Am I missing problems that you see?
As stated in the review, the only issue I have on this light is that is very picky on batteries.
A pic of a brown plowed field may not be the best way to judge the tint of a light. Guess I’ll have to do wallshots.
@hiKARInoob
I don’t believe so. Maybe this light draws 8 (per say) Amps for each cell. So any good IMR battery that can have handle a 8 amps discharge is gonna give the same output.
Yeah you are very fast, nice!
How hot does it get at the stepped down 2000 lumens?
Can you show us what led boards are used? And how they are fixated to the housing?
I thought it depends on the driver. I have little knowledge when it comes to electronics, but this was mentioned on Mountain Electronics regarding the Meteor M43. Richard states that for best turbo output, high drain batteries like the 30Q and HG2 perform well, whereas for less turbo output but enhanced runtime, one can use for example the Sanyo GA. The difference in performance between these batteries can be seen n HKJ’s comparator. Basically the less voltage sag at initiation at 8 amps, the higher the output (for ANSI measurements as well).
So turbo mode can be turned with discharged cells? And driver board have boost circuit?
I bet I know less electronics than you.
This is true, but how much difference in sag there is with different IMR batteries?
We are not talking 10-20 amps for battery, where you can tell the difference between a 20A pulse cell and a 20A continuous cell.
Of course using a regular unprotected battery should show a significant difference, since they may go up to 2 C discharge or so.
But, for example, the HG2 is good up to 20A. Using in the MK34 a Efest good up to 30 A, I won’t believe there will be any practical difference.
We are also talking 6000 + lumens, where the small difference can be visible for the instrument but not for the eye.
Here, instead of a difference in sag of few % points, you could benefit more from having more mAh, since this light is very energy consuming.
I wonder how hybrid cells like the MJ1 will perform.
I’ll try with discharged batteries.
For all the questions, you should ask manker because I’m not in possession of specific knowledge on this light.
I. Have. No. Idea…
However…
This Manker shows so many similarities with the Noctigon, even the battery length pickiness, that I would certainly not be surprised if it actually has a boost driver just like the Noctigon.
It is very hot but not unconfortable IMHO.
You will enjoy it more in winter where it doubles as hand warmer.
Hahahaha
Well I it stabilizes at 48/50° it is safe for the cells and thus tripod use.
And can you show us what is below the optics?
Well, I only know that there are differences in voltage sag, but I have no idea how this translates to differences in output. Next week, I’m getting some measuring tools including a lux meter, so I’m finally able to quantify some data myself. I use Sanyo GAs in my Noctigon, and I’m thinking about getting 30Qs as well; let’s see what the results will be…
Added to the list of things that need to be added to the review.
For Mr Miller:
Looks like swapping leds won’t be an issue.
FYI
I contacted Manker some time ago asking whether the bezel rings were removable or not, and Jason from Manker replied:
“The first batch of MK34 is not glued.”
If you’re planning on swapping the leds, you’d better double check whether the bezel rings are removable or not… Hope this information avoids unnecessary disappointments…
On my sample, the one in the pics, they are not glued and I was able to open it with the back of a mousepad (as in the pics).
But yes, in general you should check before ordering 16 leds.
did they switch LED polarity on the MCPCB?